New to temp control

[HarryHunt]

Hi, I’m new to temp control. I have a 316L spaced single coil that ohms out to 0.37 ohms. I like to vape this at around 35 Watts. My question is, how do I convert this to temperature and how do I know what to set the power at to get a similar vape? If I have the wrong forum, could you point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance. 

[awsum140]

Without using a mod with TC there are just too many variables involved to be able to determine temperature simply from ohms and watts.  Specific atomizer, coil diameter, wrap spacing, air flow, wick efficiency and a bunch of other minor variables come in to play.  All those factors can vary from build to build which make it even more difficult to say what the real coil temperature may be.

[Jonski]

Can I ask what mod you are using it on, given the forums I presume it's using the 75C chip and if it's properly calibrated then all I do is crank the watts up full , set the profile to 316l and start the temp off at 360 F and raise it up until I get the vape I want ...usually around the 420F to 440F for my .45 spaced coils . That way the coils won't be lacking in watts to get there .

[HarryHunt]

Yes it’s the 75c. I’m just wondering if by turning up the watts to max that the board will be working inefficiently by trying to control the set temp with such a high input wattage. I just find it strange that there are no guidelines for this anywhere. My common sense tells me to set the watts around what I would normally vape at in wattage mode. 

[HarryHunt]

Jonski, how do u mean properly calibrated? Do the dna chips not come properly calibrated?

[Jonski]

3 minutes ago, HarryHunt said:

Jonski, how do u mean properly calibrated? Do the dna chips not come properly calibrated?

They do , it's the internal resistance of the mod that might not be calibrated .

[Jonski]

57 minutes ago, HarryHunt said:

Yes it’s the 75c. I’m just wondering if by turning up the watts to max that the board will be working inefficiently by trying to control the set temp with such a high input wattage. I just find it strange that there are no guidelines for this anywhere. My common sense tells me to set the watts around what I would normally vape at in wattage mode. 

I don't believe that's how it works ( open to correction as always ) , by setting the watts you are telling the chip the max watts it can put out as opposed to it constantly trying to put out that  much . So while mine is set to 75 it will only put out what it needs to get it to the temp I have set . Whereas if the watts are set lower it could take longer to get to the desired temp ............................................... I think

[HarryHunt]

2 minutes ago, Jonski said:

I don't believe that's how it works ( open to correction as always ) , by setting the watts you are telling the chip the max watts it can put out as opposed to it constantly trying to put out that  much . So while mine is set to 75 it will only put out what it needs to get it to the temp I have set . Whereas if the watts are set lower it could take longer to get to the desired temp ............................................... I think

Yeah well that makes sense I guess. How do I check if the internal resistance of my mod is calibrated properly?

[awsum140]

Since you're running a 75C in temp mode, why not plug into a PC or laptop and run Device Monitor in Escribe?  That will show you the power and temperature graphically.  The you'll see at what power level your desired temperature is achieved at.

[ruckus]

Generally people max out their wattage ... I started at a low temp (200 degrees) and worked my way up to find a sweet spot.

I generally sit around 240-260 degrees celsius with my wattage set to 70W's, if the chip doesn't need the full 70W's it simply wont use it.. The idea here is you set the temp to taste.

The board will adjust the wattage automatically to reach the temp as it needs..

 

Here's a example: Maybe you want a slowwwwww ramp up time for whatever reason.. you set your temp to say 240 degress and your wattage to 25W... the chip will only use 25W's and attempt to reach 240 degrees, when it reaches 240 degrees it will stop and use what ever wattage to maintain that temp say 17W's

Edited April 10, 2018 by ruckus

[James]

@HarryHunt, one thing you can do is, go to the SS 316 profile for your device in EScribe Suite, and change Temperature to 'Off'. Upload this, select SS 316 and vape it at 35W. Check the Temperature check box in Device Monitor, it will show it but not limit it. Be sure to turn Temperature back on for SS 316 afterwards.

[Andy-d]

or you Could Use the tech as it was designed to be used , it makes life And the vape So much more consistent and satisfying

 

Wind a Spaced  coil to Fit the deck of the atty you are using, do not fuss What the resistance is that it comes to .

(cheat if you wish and use a machine screw to wind your coil around, the threads will give you a Very consistent and neat coil)

Wick it , then dial your temp to a number Just below where the cotton / rayon/other starts to char / go brown , set + forget temp

rewick   fill with juice,, press  +/- on the wattage and enjoy the vape you like at the watts you like, Without any risk of dry hit/burnt wick / burnt juice

Consistant toot each + every time,, the DNA board "deals" with the math for the temp, deals with the wattage you want,,  you , fill /toot/refill/toot and just enjoy a Nice crisp clean consistent toot

 

[HarryHunt]

22 minutes ago, Andy-d said:

or you Could Use the tech as it was designed to be used , it makes life And the vape So much more consistent and satisfying

 

Wind a Spaced  coil to Fit the deck of the atty you are using, do not fuss What the resistance is that it comes to .

(cheat if you wish and use a machine screw to wind your coil around, the threads will give you a Very consistent and neat coil)

Wick it , then dial your temp to a number Just below where the cotton / rayon/other starts to char / go brown , set + forget temp

rewick   fill with juice,, press  +/- on the wattage and enjoy the vape you like at the watts you like, Without any risk of dry hit/burnt wick / burnt juice

Consistant toot each + every time,, the DNA board "deals" with the math for the temp, deals with the wattage you want,,  you , fill /toot/refill/toot and just enjoy a Nice crisp clean consistent toot

 

What mode are you in for this

[Andy-d]

i pick the mode to match the coil wire

 

SS316l for Ss 316l

Nickle 200 for ni200

nife30 for nife30 (i only use dicodes own nife30) , profile for there wire @ steamengine.org

 

its how ive been making coild for temp limited vaping since the dna40 was first released, Never had a single issue  this way,

[HarryHunt]

1 minute ago, Andy-d said:

i pick the mode to match the coil wire

 

SS316l for Ss 316l

Nickle 200 for ni200

nife30 for nife30 (i only use dicodes own nife30) , profile for there wire @ steamengine.org

 

its how ive been making coild for temp limited vaping since the dna40 was first released, Never had a single issue  this way,

Is this common practice? I’ve never heard of this before but it sounds smart. But it doesn’t seem like temp control vaping was designed to work like this other than the dry hit protection. I’ll give it ago anyway. At what temp does the cotton usually start to char?

[Andy-d]

i hope @James  or @Brandon will correct me if i am wrong here

 

temp control wasnt designed to vape at "that temp" , it was designed to "fix" (cure) the problem of the Many nastie "things" created by a dry hit / burning/over heated wicking material , making vaping Safer for vapers, And while doing that Prevent the fracturing of the eliquid (which when over heated Also produces lots of nasty things we dont want)

common , yes

 

sadly far far too many use it not as intended with contact / multi core wires and then "ah temp control is shite" gets said ,, it isnt when used correctly,, it is when used not as intended

bit like using a screw driver to screw screws in , works perfect,, Sucks when you try to chop a tree down with one,,

[HarryHunt]

4 minutes ago, Andy-d said:

i hope @James  or @Brandon will correct me if i am wrong here

 

temp control wasnt designed to vape at "that temp" , it was designed to "fix" (cure) the problem of the Many nastie "things" created by a dry hit / burning/over heated wicking material , making vaping Safer for vapers, And while doing that Prevent the fracturing of the eliquid (which when over heated Also produces lots of nasty things we dont want)

common , yes

 

sadly far far too many use it not as intended with contact / multi core wires and then "ah temp control is shite" gets said ,, it isnt when used correctly,, it is when used not as intended

bit like using a screw driver to screw screws in , works perfect,, Sucks when you try to chop a tree down with one,,

At what temp does the cotton usually start to char?

[Andy-d]

220C is "safe" for muji  240c is where I get very noticable brown/char point

not tried cotton bacon ,, and do not bother with the BS "for vapours" so called special cottons

[HarryHunt]

1 minute ago, Andy-d said:

220C is "safe" for muji  240c is where I get very noticable brown/char point

not tried cotton bacon ,, and do not bother with the BS "for vapours" so called special cottons

Thanks a bunch for the advice👋