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Battery Analyzer. stopped at 3.8V


nicovape
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Hello,

I am new to DNA board. I am running a battery analysis on the HANA MODZ and it started from 4.2V until 3.80 and stopped. said my battery is 6.xx Wh .. Of course this is wrong since it is a 950ma LIPO. it should be around 10.55 Wh

Why would it stop before it reachs 3.09 (default value where it should stop, i assume?)

I was using a dripper with a 0.2 ohm dual coil for the setup. the dripper got hot as hell and the aluminium box too..

I did not pay attention, maybe there was a temperature protection kicking in ? would that appear on the analysis window ? Or what else could make it stop so early? at 3.83 V right now, it shows 43% battery left..

should i run the test with the case opened to dissipate better?

Please advise, i am confused.

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Couple of things:
-The 3.8v in the curve is the at rest voltage, not the under load voltage that corresponds to that at rest voltage.  a battery at rest at 3.8v may sag to 3.09v under load.  The batteries that we use in the reference fall off a cliff after about 3.7v.  The fact that you are using a Hana Mod with a JST connector is likely accounting for the extra 0.1v of drop.

-Make sure you are running the newest firmware as a slight adjustment was made to the analyzer.
 

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Brandon said:

Couple of things:
-The 3.8v in the curve is the at rest voltage, not the under load voltage that corresponds to that at rest voltage.  a battery at rest at 3.8v may sag to 3.09v under load.  The batteries that we use in the reference fall off a cliff after about 3.7v.  The fact that you are using a Hana Mod with a JST connector is likely accounting for the extra 0.1v of drop.

-Make sure you are running the newest firmware as a slight adjustment was made to the analyzer.
 



Brandon, i see you mention the JST connector. I have seen people talking about JST connector before. Are you talking about the one going to the "+" and "-" on the board? 

It seems earlier version of hana modz had two connectors and users could remove their battery. now, there is one connector, but + and - are soldered to the board.. you can't change the battery unless you unsolder the cables.

I am interested to know if there were indeed two connectors or if i miss understood. I don't know anything about electronics and connectors..

Also i wish someone would post a picture with a properly grounded hana modz.. i see a lot of posts about it.. but no picture, nothing..

Attached picture of my board.. Let me know if this one still has JST connector problem.. it seems the ground is empty, so i suppose it is not properly grounded still.. please help.. i get some weird 510 reading sometimes, i have to lock ohms to vape correctly

IMG_2851.jpg

IMG_2850.jpg

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VapingBad said:

He meant the connector that is/was on the main battery leads (thicker black and red wires), but if I read you post correctly they have done away with those and soldered the wires directly to the board.  The balance connector is also a JST, a JST-XH so it is a bit confusing.

So they indeed fixed it. (See picture) Yes there is a connector. That must be the balancing. This is why i was confused. There are two thick wires from the battery soldered to the board. My device was setup on the 6th August by hana modz. So it seems they fixed it a month ago. Yay! Now if someone could show me a fixed ground i would be very happy. I am an assembly programmer but i know absolutely nothing in electronic :-( Reason i ask is because my resistance is sometimes read very low when cold. Even at 250C i get a cool vape. If i lock it 0,010- 0,015 higher then it vapes fantastic. Also despite the case analysis, the room temp is often quite off... Not sure how important the room temperature is for temp control other than to calculate cold resistance. I appreciate answers to my questions. Thanks guys and sorry if i ask stupid things
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Thank you VapingBad!

So this is what i thought about how to attach it. At least i can try to hold a wire by hands and see how it affects reading resistance. I suppose one needs to solder it.. On the 510 part, i have no idea how to do it properly..
I wish hana modz made their work properly. with taxes and euros, i paid this mod an arm because i could not wait for other mods to be available here in France..

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It is stable, it might change from 0.01 from time to time, but the wire to the ground did absolutely nothing to the value. it behaved exactly the same way. Fixed value and once every 30 seconds, it would move up by 0.01 and then down and stable again for 30 seconds etc.

Thank you so much for answering my question VapingBad! highly appreciated :)


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The 3 screws that attach the board to the case are ground points, as your case is metal and the 510 is connected to your case it is grounded through these points and does not require a wire soldered to it. you can check to make sure the 3 screws are secure but don't over tighten them as they are quite small and could strip the threads.

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reddiamond said:

The 3 screws that attach the board to the case are ground points, as your case is metal and the 510 is connected to your case it is grounded through these points and does not require a wire soldered to it. you can check to make sure the 3 screws are secure but don't over tighten them as they are quite small and could strip the threads.



Thanks for this post. I was wondering why some people had to ground their hana modz then ?

Also i noticed something, when i remove my RBA, using the coil live analysis, i see that sometimes, i don't get the "?" mark, meaning there is nothing plugged. If i move the pin around, it gets back to what it should be. However, it does not seem to affect the resistance reading, because when atomizer is screwed in, the pin seems to take his correct position..

I wonder why it reads a resistance value and that moves when i move the pin with a screw driver and stays with a resistance value without anything plugged in, until i find a position where no atomizer are detected. i saw value such as 0.047 until i moved the pin.

Any idea? is that the 510 and lack of grounding or what?
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Could just be electrical noise in the environment. The 510 is an antenna, albeit not a great one, but with a noisy enough environment and given the low level signals the boards has to measure, leaving the 510 open might pick up enough noise to make the board think something is there. Do you have lots of fluorescent lights (or an operating Eimac tube lol) nearby?

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Mad Scientist said:

Could just be electrical noise in the environment. The 510 is an antenna, albeit not a great one, but with a noisy enough environment and given the low level signals the boards has to measure, leaving the 510 open might pick up enough noise to make the board think something is there. Do you have lots of fluorescent lights (or an operating Eimac tube lol) nearby?



No, i don't but I have a password cracking station (looks like a mining box) with open case near me (work related , i do computer security stuff).. There are 5 gpu , 2 outside of the computer.

Maybe that's it. But if i push the pin a little to the center, it gets back to 0. it is like the pin moves against something and then, it shows a resistance. I don't know..


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How many p/s do you get ? Aircrack was originally written by a friend of mine, also french like me. There are better alternative though.
My friend atom, who writes oclhashcat is the best password cracking tool out there. it is not open source, but there is a linux and windows version.

That tool support almost everything you can dream of. (hashcat is for cpu only, and oclhashcat is for gpu)

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