Battery testing-is a resistor necessary, or could you use a coil of suitable resistance?

[Conanthewarrior]

Hello.

I am new to the DNA 200, and am enjoying it. It is by far the best out of my 12 mods, 9 regulateds, 5 TC.

This is the smoothest TC, that it is so smooth its not even like TC. It does not pulse like other chips do, running hot then cool, it actually does it so smoothly it is unbeleiveable. I think this is the future of vaping.

On to my question-

I want to run battery anylyzer to find if my battery is damaged, and is the stated MAH (900) that it should be, but due to receiving at low voltage and using battery saver, I am worried its left a wound.

It suggests using a resistor at 40 watts-is it best for me to get a resistor for this-or would it be possible with a coil of the correct resitance?

If it needs to be a resistor, could you reccommend me the type, and I guess you attach it to your atomiser like you would a coil for the test to run?

Thanks for your help to a new DNA200 owner.

[mikepetro]

If you were to create a 40w coil, most attys couldnt dissipate the heat generated by this test. I recommend a power resistor attached to a heatsink.

One, or even better - both of these hooked in parallel, would work nicely.
http://www.amazon.com/Mounted-Aluminum-Housed-Wirewound-Resistors/dp/B008IDAD76/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1445189600&sr=8-4&keywords=100w+1ohm+resistor


Here was my approach, a bit overkill for just doing one bat, I wanted to be able test multiple brands.

[Popeye]

ive seen people just use bigger loops of thick wire. Not a coil, just a couple of loops. doesnt have to sit within the dripper. ^^ that setup is a beast^^

[awsum140]

Here's my solution.  Four one ohm, 50 watt, resistors  mounted on a scrap aluminum finned chassis.  It's wired with 10 gauge between the resistors and 12 gauge silicon for the leads which are terminated in an XT30 for convenience.  I also have an adapter with brass lugs to attach to an ErlK clone atty if I want to test an assembled system.



(Resistors were excess from Mike Petro)

[Conanthewarrior]

awsum140 said:

Here's my solution.  Four one ohm, 50 watt, resistors  mounted on a scrap aluminum finned chassis.  It's wired with 10 gauge between the resistors and 12 gauge silicon for the leads which are terminated in an XT30 for convenience.  I also have an adapter with brass lugs to attach to an ErlK clone atty if I want to test an assembled system.



(Resistors were excess from Mike Petro)

Wow. I don't think I will be making something like that just for battery testing, but pretty cool!

I may use the thick wire method as stated above, just need to know exactly WHAT wire would be suitable.

I guess a single resistor would not be sufficient to run this test? That is why you have them set up that way?

Thanks for the information though. It seems a bit beyond my realm-and I wouldn't want to break my now favourite mod/Chip.

All I know is the 900MAH battery is enough for 3 and a bit tanks of my SMOK RSBT2. I've found that to be a good tank for TC after taking it out of retirement due to it using untempered glass, found some that fit (The gt-t tanks by taifun if anyone was wondering, the glass for those is a pyrex type, and won't shatter like the standard thin glass provided by SMOK).

I see the turniguy battery-I was looking at one of these myself, but I think it was 1100MAH, 45C-90C so well enough for safety.

In all honesty though-I guess the 200W would only really be suitable for Kanthal, as TC would kick in and drop the wattage would it not if you tried using it on a TC build? But standard settings in Escribe for kanthal are 100W-is it safe to allow kanthal to the chips full power with a suitable battery?

[awsum140]

To be honest, I know it's overkill, but I'm known for overkill.  Me and Clark Griswald went to school together.

So far, I haven't used it at anything higher than 50 watts for testing purposes.  I did want to be able to go to the full 200 watts, just in case, though.  The max power can be changed in Escribe, both for regular use with kanthal and for the battery load test.

The wire I used was from a scrap piece of 10/3 romex I had hanging around from moving the water heater.  Any wire is suitable as long as it's of a heavy enough gauge.  Again, 10 gauge is overkill but then again that's just me.

I get about 10ml from the 1000mah Nanotech which represents a little over a day for me  I'm working on another mod with a 1500mah Nanotech but the time involved in that particular build is kind of long.  I've also got a couple of 1300mah Nanotechs for yet another version.  I'm hoping for two days out of the 1300mah and more than that from the 1500mah.

[Conanthewarrior]

Ahh thats pretty good then-my battery can't be too damaged as it is 900MAH and I get around 9ML's out of a full charge. 

I realised, I have not actually ran a FULL battery saver cycle on Escribe. 

I have only allowed it to run for around an hour or so, then finished off with the wall charger. 

I am trying to run the battery untill full in battery saver mode-and it seems to be doing something, as occasionally on the graph the voltage will dip, then the amps, instead of the usual flat charging line. 

It is only doing it every few minutes-but I guess it is areas of the battery that are damaged it is trying to override/save? 

Also, I understand it is 200W, but in TC mode that obviously isn't achievable, due to wattage dropping to keep to your temp. 

If I did want to run it at 200W, it would be with kanthal, non temp yes? 

I am highly unlikely to do so, as I have other mods that are possible of 150 and 180W, I have tested them once just to see if they could reach it with a suitable build, and they could. 

But in all honesty, 80W with dual coils is enough for me, that provides huge clouds, and that is mad for me. I am more after flavour, and interested in the tech side of vaping, so use the DNA 200 at around 30W or so with a 100W preheat, 8 punch. I did have it set to 80W preheat, but I find 100W to be even smoother as it gets there in an instant. 

[VapingBad]

You can get 200 W in temp mode with big enough coils and mega airflow, but my lungs can only get it to stay at about 120 W with the temp set at 380 F, I was only doing it for a laugh and normally vape at 40 W.

[Conanthewarrior]

VapingBad said:

You can get 200 W in temp mode with big enough coils and mega airflow, but my lungs can only get it to stay at about 120 W with the temp set at 380 F, I was only doing it for a laugh and normally vape at 40 W.

Yeah I only really vape super high wattage for a bit of a laugh, its not really what I enjoy, I enjoy lower wattage, super flavour. 

OK so you can hit 200W with big enough coils?  What sort of gauge are we talking here? I gather at a minimum 22-as I have 24 Gauge and built a dual coil setup at 0.24 ohms. 

I had this set to 80 watts-but it would hit temp almost immediately at 230C, and drop to around 17 watts, and fluctuate slightly to keep at the temp it has hit, so in reality I wasn't vaping at 80 watts, maybe for a second until TC kicks in. 

I tend to find that on all TC models-more vapour is produced with more heat-but my DNA 200 manual states temp does not control clouds, the wattage does, so its a bit confusing, as I guess with standard kanthal, the higher the wattage, the higher the temperature on standard mods, which produces more cloud. 

But like I said I would only like to do it for fun, probable only every couple of weeks-and I highly doubt I would be able to take that wattage for long. 

But, I do want to get some 20 or 22 gauge standard kanthal, to get the surface area needed for TC. 

I wonder what I could get out of a dual coil, 26 gauge titanium build at around 0.2-0.3 for surface area?