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DNA 40 chip issues


eagleswind2
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This is the first box I've built from start to finish but having issues with the DNA 40 chip. I get the wires soldered on the chip and everything seems to work fine when I use the onboard buttons. All of a sudden the screen flickers and the power down mode seems to kick in with no off board switches connected yet. So I take the wires back off in fear of maybe a strand of wire is crossed to another terminal. I've done this 3 times now and seems to get better each time. The 4 time I rewired it I was able to start connecting the 510 connector and continued to the fire switch, the power up switch while checking the chip after each connection. When I got to the final switch (power down) it suddenly started to do the same thing. I disconnect both power switches hooked up the battery and turn it on and each time now it powers down to 0 without doing anything. Does anyone have an idea of why this is happening and what would be the cure? I hate to take all the wires back off again and start all over if I don't have to. Just about at my whit's ends here. I don't see any solder or wire strands crossing over any where.. Heeeeeelp!! lol

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From what you've said it sounds like you're soldering with power connected.  That could be the problem.  The next thing is solder and/or flux between pads on the board.  I managed to "brick" a DNA40 with a small bridge between two pads that I never noticed until the board was toasted.

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thanks awsum140 but while soldering I leave the battery out. Once I get one wire soldered then I'll install it and make sure the board itself is working properly and do the same for each wire soldered. That way if something acts up Id know which wire it giving the problem. After all the wires are in place it all seems to work great but I find that later in time when I go to continue to hook up the switches i'll test it one more time and POOF, there it goes again for no apparent reason...

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No disrespect, be confident and asume the new board when you get it works fine, i can understand what your doing, but your increasing your work and risk of shorting outs, always tin your wires first, poke them through the holes, solder them in place from the other side, then clip off any excess, install the whole thing .. allways make your battery connection last, if your going to hard wire it, best to have leads from the board and leads from the battery and then solder the leads, negative first, only expose live wire when your going to work on it, to avoid short outs. Any bad connections will still be relevant to whichever button.. all the best

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Thanks Dave I appreciate your response. I've done pretty much all of what you're saying except for the poss and neg leads. I cut them to length then solder and place the battery tray in place. Building the boxes is my expertise but the electronic portion is a bit of a challenge yet. Im no stranger to soldering but I am on such a small scaled item as these chips. Why the lED came off the ribbon I don't understand but evolve will repair or replace the screen for me for a minimal fee. My issue now is securing the screen and the chip to the wood boxes I make. I've been told double sided tape heat range 200deg. +, silicone, glues etc. I wanted to get the 3d chip cradles and such but they wont fit in my boxes due to limited space. Im now looking for the best adhesive to use, and where to purchase it. Thanks again

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eagleswind2 said:

Thanks Dave I appreciate your response. I've done pretty much all of what you're saying except for the poss and neg leads. I cut them to length then solder and place the battery tray in place. Building the boxes is my expertise but the electronic portion is a bit of a challenge yet. Im no stranger to soldering but I am on such a small scaled item as these chips. Why the lED came off the ribbon I don't understand but evolve will repair or replace the screen for me for a minimal fee. My issue now is securing the screen and the chip to the wood boxes I make. I've been told double sided tape heat range 200deg. +, silicone, glues etc. I wanted to get the 3d chip cradles and such but they wont fit in my boxes due to limited space. Im now looking for the best adhesive to use, and where to purchase it. Thanks again

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Why not make a basic cradle out of slithers of vaneir or carve something, wood is as resiliant as you need is it not.. and then you will still be in keeping with the wood mod.... if im thinking right you only want very basic jig just to keep it all squared up..if your anything like me by the time you get half way through youl be ordering parts up for the next build .... lol .....all the best

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A blob of epoxi resin glue like araldite has to be heated with a flame befor it reverts back to liquid, im sure someone will say differnt and come up with the exact temperature, ive never needed to stick the screen on like that, just put a bit of flat on the inside of the mod so the screen can butt up to it in position, then tack it in place with tape or little dabs of epoxi on the edges, if you let the glue start going off a bit it wont track or capillary atract or soak in every where, youve got mounting holes on the board so you can eithe put screws through it cuz your working with wood, you can do that with a fixed to board screen or the large removable screen, i epoxi my dna 40s in metal boxes dy the edge of the board, if its to high to sit in the box just make little legs for it to sit on out off slithers of wood, glue them down then glue board on, ive never had an issue of heat transfer from back of board touching back of screen.. ive striped mods built and snaped the boards off the glue without a problem and re used, you dont have to set it compleatly covered like encased in plastic resin to hold it in place your not going to be using the mod as a hammer, lol.

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davemaxx said:

A blob of epoxi resin glue like araldite has to be heated with a flame befor it reverts back to liquid, im sure someone will say differnt and come up with the exact temperature, ive never needed to stick the screen on like that, just put a bit of flat on the inside of the mod so the screen can butt up to it in position, then tack it in place with tape or little dabs of epoxi on the edges, if you let the glue start going off a bit it wont track or capillary atract or soak in every where, youve got mounting holes on the board so you can eithe put screws through it cuz your working with wood, you can do that with a fixed to board screen or the large removable screen, i epoxi my dna 40s in metal boxes dy the edge of the board, if its to high to sit in the box just make little legs for it to sit on out off slithers of wood, glue them down then glue board on, ive never had an issue of heat transfer from back of board touching back of screen.. ive striped mods built and snaped the boards off the glue without a problem and re used, you dont have to set it compleatly covered like encased in plastic resin to hold it in place your not going to be using the mod as a hammer, lol.



You should only use electronics grade epoxy, Sugru is a lot easier IMO.
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65815-topic/?do=findComment&comment=890976
Nick said:

David,

For your board mounting, at the button opposite of the battery + is there anything between that metal support and the board? The board is not designed to have a mounting point on that side, so I would try to insulate it. 

Also, what are you using to hold the screen?

Right now the two biggest issues we are seeing with the VAST majority of returns is one, soldering too cool, for too long and heating the entire board, or soldering too long due to not pre-tinning wires and pre-flowing solder onto pads. I like to solder very hot, very fast in order to avoid heating any surrounding areas. 

Two, and this is the big one so far, is people using all manner of glues, epoxies, etc. Anything solvent based is a BIG no no especially.

Anything other than an electronics grade epoxy or electronic grade RTV/Silicone can and will compromise your board and its components.

Electronics grade RTV/Silicone is likely everyone's best bet as electronics grade glue and epoxy is very expensive.


https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/68032-topic/
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Its a dna 40d with rails isnt it. Well to cover my back i realy dont think the epoxi i use is solvent based, because it has to carry alsorts of warnings on the tubes even brail triangle things, i'll get on the case. I only have a access to domestic supplies so i dont believe i can come a cropper with the " i got it from work, its the dogs wotsits senario and then melt the corner off...

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Just done an ebay search for electronics glue and found three diferent ones for less tan a tenner...via my telephone sitting in trafic. Took less than a minute. Poke a quote at that then...

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davemaxx said:

Just done an ebay search for electronics glue and found three diferent ones for less tan a tenner...via my telephone sitting in trafic. Took less than a minute. Poke a quote at that then...


My last post wasn't personal, I have used normal epoxy on DNA30s & 40s with no ill effects, but if Evolv say it's a no no then I would have to be a not very nice person to not clarify that when I saw it being advised.

Got any UK links for that epoxy?  I have some Sugru and some servicsol electronics silicon, but wouldn't mind some safe epoxy.
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Good grief would you believe it.. it says on the side in great big letters.. tell vapin bad that this is not solvent based but dont stick it on any live electrical components, and dont commision until dry... how did you know that..lamo .... when i get near a computer ill send a pic...

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VapingBad said:

[QUOTE=davemaxx]Just done an ebay search for electronics glue and found three different ones for less tan a tenner...via my telephone sitting in traffic. Took less than a minute. Poke a quote at that then...


My last post wasn't personal, I have used normal epoxy on DNA30s & 40s with no ill effects, but if Evolv say it's a no no then I would have to be a not very nice person to not clarify that when I saw it being advised.

Got any UK links for that epoxy?  I have some Sugru and some servicsol electronics silicon, but wouldn't mind some safe epoxy.[/QUOTE]

teas gone cold now, ,,, OK have mailed the company, because a little knowledge can be moor dangerous than good,, but looks solvent free..  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Epoxy-Resin-250g-/252162179579? from what I can gather solvents can be added to the chemicals to increase a better flow and then they disperse during the curing process, there is also an issue of inhalation of carcinogens etc. with solvents, also there are very different laws in the us regarding the use of, .. if you manage to get one you could try storing in needle tip dropper bottles and mix 3 to 1 ect,, all the best
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Back on phone now.. also evolv coat the board in a waxy waterproofing stuff, solvent would fetch it of, ,, i think...possibly even just the vapours in a confined space, like in a mod, But like i was saying theres no need to compleatly encapsuel the board with glue to hold it in place, just a dab on the extream edges, most peoples builds when finished are so stuffed theres no room for anything to move anyway..

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IIRC the conformal coating is silicon based. I am putting a DNA40 in a clone Flask I for a lady that can kill a mod by looking at it let alone getting liquid on the board, she has lost faith with 2 guys she sent repairs and upgrades too.  So I need a lot of extra protection, maybe I should use long wires all coming out as a bunch and put the board in a durex.

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am on phone not computer  have poor reception and no resources, I know one thread leads to another but contributes to a massive dater base of real hands on experience and knowledge  which can be called upon by members whenever required,
 
also ;;;---  1.21 JIGAWATTS............WHAT THE HE'LL IS A JIGAWATT?

I have very little knowledge of the measurement of a current;;;;;;;;

or any other dried fruit for that matter

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