Changing ohms/resistance

[blueaussie]

I have a vapor Shark and a Tuglyfe dna200 devices. I'm using SMOK TFV4's with temperature sensing coils but as the coils get hot it changes the resistance which causes both devices to run hotter to the point Imcant vape them anymore untill they cool down. Is anybody else experiencing this as well? On my DNA 40 I never had any problems. Any advice would be appreciated. I make sure the coils are tight on the base. I don't know what to do. If it was one device I could understand but both really has me bummed out. Thanks for any help

[flem]

I had the same problem with the TVF4, because this tank really gets warm also when you just vape normally - no chain vaping.
I dont use the tank anymore, because it really gets hot and I think its a big fault when a tank get this hot with stock coils.

[LarryLenz]

I use the TFV4 with NI200 on the build deck running at 0.1 ohm coil set at 420F and 20 Watts.  It works perfect for me.  Never gets hot unless I take like 5 hits one right after the other.  The triple coil got way to hot for me so I just make my own coils.  0.1 ohm.  somewhere around there.  I just purchased the Steam Crave Aromamizer RDTA with the 2 post design.  Made dual coils at 0.06ohm and it isn't hot either.  420F at 30 Watts. 
I hate hot vapes, so that is why I don't use the prebuilt coils from TFV4.  Just my preference.

[blueaussie]

Am I getting things all wrong. If your using temp sensing top works do you have to limit the wattage? I'm thinking you should not have to do that. Am I wrong? Thanks

[LarryLenz]

The only limit I have on wattage is the ramp up wattage.  I have it set to 100 watts.  That is all.  Hope that helps.

[CloudChaser]

I know I'm a little late here but I struggled with the same problem on all my temp control devices with Ti1 wire. After a month experimenting with a couple different tanks and two different Ti wires I found that it was the post screws. In the past I have watched videos and read forum postings not to tighten the post screws too tight as it would cut the wire. WRONG. A loose screw will cause the resistance to fluctuate.

A couple days ago, I completed another build that worked fine for one tank. Then, I could here the loud sizzling of the liquid and I looked at the resistance and it had jumped 0.12 ohms (the resistance doubled to 0.24 ohms) which is a lot on a temp control device. I disassembled the tank and tightened the hell out of the screws. I got about 3/4 turn out of two of the screws. It did not cut the wire and when I checked the resistance on my atty ohm meter it was back down to 0.12 ohms which is where it is supposed to be. I reassembled the tank and it has been fine since. 6 tank fulls that is.

The 510 connector is very important as well. I use the VariTube 510 connector on all of my mods. During assembly I discard the stock spring and install a 5 lbs spring instead. This eliminates the problems that are associated with tanks that employ an intermediate connection to the 510 connector pin. A good solid connection is very important on temperature control devices. A poor connection will cause resistance fluctuations! I hope this helps!

Happiness is a tight screw 

[Margucci]

on all my builds i run the atomizer tool to check to see if the resistance fluctuates. i just tighten the screws until it stops fluctuating. that way its tight enough that there are no issues and no tighter ensuring that i dont clip leads. 

[bmclaurin]

Nice tip, Margucci. I'll have to give that a try.