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A DNA 40 Style Wattage Vape on a DNA 200


Jalcide

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I switched back to kanthal / wattage mode for a bit, and it was a refreshing change.

18 watts in in a Silo Beast with a 25 gauge kanthal 8 wrap, horizontal spaced coil around a 2.1mm bit in an atlantis compatible RBA coil.

I then put the same atty, mid-tank, on a DNA 40 mod (latest "large screen" chip revision) and I swear it was doing something "different I liked" (not very scientific). Notice I didn't say, "better."

Can anyone from Evolv confirm what settings on a DNA 200 (preheat, hardness, etc.) will most closely match the DNA 40?

Or, is it too apples to oranges? Too many algorithm changes?

Does anyone else notice anything different in wattage mode between default DNA 200 settings and the DNA 40?



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I tried to see if setting to temp control using Kanthal would at least allow me to manipulate the preheat functions in interesting ways.

There may be possibilities there. I was getting mixed results. Will have to revisit this.

I guess that's another feature request: Allow control of preheat power, punch and duration for wattage mode.





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Gm111 said:

If your dna 200 has a lipo this is why it has more of a punch.. If it has 18650s I couldn't say.



I'm pretty sure step-down, boost-conversion and power regulation, in general, fully control, and with great precision, what is delivered to the coil (and when) on these modern devices. Right?

For example, when the battery's voltage drops over its discharge, the DNA will ask for more amps to maintain the same wattage, etc.

Also, the fact there is even a preheat function (for TC) with soft-to-hard parameters, illustrates how the DNA is carefully controlling the final, target wattage that hits the coil (after all is said and done).

The only time the battery would matter is if it can't deliver the raw amps (or voltage) the DNA would ask for, but that's not the case here. I'm wanting the DNA to ask for less power, not more.


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You need to try changeing coil sizes, i use pretty much a two and half mill mandril with 28 guage ni200 annealed tempered, from wires.co.uk, then experiment with how many wraps.. also twisted 32 guage ni 200, tempered on a 2mm mandrel, no disrespect but if your coiling and wicking aint no good it font matter what battery or power your connecting to.

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Jalcide said:

What I really want is a full-on easing equation designer, for wattage mode, to precisely control the ramp-up of the vape.

Something like this, but for an Escribe profile: http://cubic-bezier.com
One can dream. (It would be easy to implement, though.)

In fact, make it full ADSR envelope (Attack, Decay, Sustain, Release). Done.

This! The Evic Supreme had a configurable ramp up. Loved that feature.
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black lace said:

You need to try changeing coil sizes, i use pretty much a two and half mill mandril with 28 guage ni200 annealed tempered, from wires.co.uk, then experiment with how many wraps.. also twisted 32 guage ni 200, tempered on a 2mm mandrel, no disrespect but if your coiling and wicking aint no good it font matter what battery or power your connecting to.



Yes, you pretty much described the exact build I've landed on, too, after much experimentation.

I do a 9 wrap, spaced, 28 gauge, ni200 on a 2mm bit. It usually comes out to 0.10, or 0.11 ohms, which gives me compatibility with my DNA40 mods.

Depending on juice, it's usually anywhere from 16 to 20 watts that end up hitting the coil (after TC does its thing); loose (but not too airy) draw.

I can also go crazy and push that build to the 20 to 28 watts range, if I'm in a rebellious mood. :)




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I maintain a kayfun tank for a friend and am using kenthal because of the mod its on does not support tc. I can tell straight away a very simualar build with 28 guage kenthaln is only a little hotter considering airflow wicking and taste and density of vapour. I'm suggesting do you think you have gone off the temp protection because to achieve the hit that you require you would have to up your temp setting beyond that of a desirable figure .. like 450 .. because if so i think you still need to look at your coiling and wicking and possibly even grind out your juice channels to get the juice in to the buissiness bit. For all the v2 and v3 models of whatever tank you wish to mention, nine times out of ten the juice channels have been re worked to feed wick and coil. Temp protection is very much the way foreward but you do have to have gear thats upto it..including a good vg/pg juice

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I'm not quite sure what you're saying, but for me TC isn't about delivering a consistent, target temperature, it's about delivering a consistent target mean-wattage.

I've modified my screen to show mean-wattage and dial in the temp until it's hitting the coil the way I know it should, and where I like the vape.

So, basically, there is little difference in my build between kanthal at, say, 18 watts power mode and 18 mean-watts with ni200 in the same tank.

The strategy is great, the vape is great.

What this thread is about, is something different. It's about the ramp-up both in TC and power mode, with the DNA200 vs a DNA40, all other things being equal.

With the DNA40 the ramp up is smooth, gentle and very pleasant. The DNA200 ramp up seem more aggressive to me, all other things (including e-liquid) being equal.

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each to their own matey. but unfortunately the tanks you mention are very much remedial introductory level and your never going to get any performance like a dna 40 dna 200 or even dna 25 can deliver, does the owner of your vape shop stand at the door or window and wave at you as you walk down the path or something? 
  wattage is supplying power heating a coil, the coil will cool depending on what air your drawing over it and what juice flow around and through it. the hit that you experience is associated to heat and its mean delivery,
it doesn't matter if your cooking on gas or electric. what your after is how satisfying whats coming out the drip tip is

there's nothing I cant do with temp control, that I achieve with basic kenthal, I know which one I prefer..
try setting up two the same attys, one kenthal one ni200
go into escribe and adjust away, until you get your desired hit
you may not like what you find regarding final temp range (hopefully not)

the idea in the beginning was to control temperature to prevent scorching, so as to not intake com busted substances into the lungs which may be harmful.
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Huh? I haven't even mentioned the tanks I own. They are not introductory level.

I don't understand your argumentative tone, but it's the internet, something must have been lost in the text-lation. :)

I appreciate your attempt to help me with my vaping experience, but I assure you all is well here.

I shall gracefully bow out. You've won this non-debate, debate. :)

Long live the DNA200 and DNA40, both are great.

Cheers. :thumb:

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oh yes they are.. and when you know what your on about they will be covered in dust, i'm doing you a favour, kick and screem as much as you like.

quote your thread start ---18 watts in in a Silo Beast with a 25 gauge kanthal 8 wrap, horizontal spaced coil around a 2.1mm bit in an atlantis compatible RBA coil.

unless your doing a ten second drag your not even warm.

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black lace said:

oh yes they are.. and when you know what your on about they will be covered in dust, i'm doing you a favour, kick and screem as much as you like.

quote your thread start ---18 watts in in a Silo Beast with a 25 gauge kanthal 8 wrap, horizontal spaced coil around a 2.1mm bit in an atlantis compatible RBA coil.

unless your doing a ten second drag your not even warm.



Oh, apologies, I did mention my Silo Beast. Well, I have many, many tanks, dripping atomizers and gennys. Even a few custom drilled, limited edition ones from the UK.

I have single and dual fused clapton builds, etc., at higher wattages (even some quad builds), but I've come back to the smaller, single coil builds, tanks and cooler vapes.

Yes, you're correct, I do tend to prefer cooler vapes at longer draws for flavor and because even warm (not hot) vapes tend to slightly burn the roof of my mouth over the course of the day.

Also, I like my atlantis style tanks (like the Silo Beast, SOV Eclipse and Saucecode) because I can pre-build a bunch of RBA coils and swap them out quickly when I'm working and too busy to do a build. Same for when I'm on-the-go. And I like the flavor and draw on them.



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Hi Jalcide

I think I kind of know what you mean , my GF has a little subox mini with a subtank on it which she uses a .5 ohm Clapton in the RBA which vapes great at around 25-28 watts , I know its not a super lean mean all singing mega accurate mod but vaped in power mode on my reuleaux it is most definitely a very quick ramp up and warmer vape than on the subox at identical watts.
I can't explain it but I have to lower it to around 22 watts to get a similar vape.
Anyway , no explanation but thought I'd share that I've had a similar experience to yourself.

regards

Lee

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there you go again,,,quote; ;like the Silo Beast, SOV Eclipse and Saucecode,
puniy little novelty build decs no coil room no wick room poor center pin to floating pin 510 connectivity, poor pre wound pre wicked coils etc etc, cheep nasty, knock em out rake it in products off the ecig wagon, 
the reason you cant get a decent vape from a temperature controlled coil is because you haven't got one,  nore a decent attomiser to put one in,
learn how to build a coil for yourself not just put crappy market stall import in, you cant buy them off the shelf they don't exist.

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Hi and thanks, Lee.

Yeah, it's subtle, and for those of us into subtle vaping, we notice.

On a related note, it kinda bums me out that the DNA200 doesn't support a single 18650 configuration for those wanting 60 watts or less (or even 40 watts or less), but still wanting the wire choices the DNA 200 provides.

I love that single 18650 hana modz form factor. It would be awesome to have that with a DNA200 chip inside running Titanium or SS.

So, Evolv, if you're listening, if it's possible to address in firmware / Escribe, how about adding that option to the power source config section!

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black lace said:

there you go again,,,quote; ;like the Silo Beast, SOV Eclipse and Saucecode,
puniy little novelty build decs no coil room no wick room poor center pin to floating pin 510 connectivity, poor pre wound pre wicked coils etc etc, cheep nasty, knock em out rake it in products off the ecig wagon, 
the reason you cant get a decent vape from a temperature controlled coil is because you haven't got one,  nore a decent attomiser to put one in,
learn how to build a coil for yourself not just put crappy market stall import in, you cant buy them off the shelf they don't exist.



LOL.

Sorry, troll feeding quota has been reached.



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Indi said:

Hi Jalcide

I think I kind of know what you mean , my GF has a little subox mini with a subtank on it which she uses a .5 ohm Clapton in the RBA which vapes great at around 25-28 watts , I know its not a super lean mean all singing mega accurate mod but vaped in power mode on my reuleaux it is most definitely a very quick ramp up and warmer vape than on the subox at identical watts.
I can't explain it but I have to lower it to around 22 watts to get a similar vape.
Anyway , no explanation but thought I'd share that I've had a similar experience to yourself.

regards

Lee

#

 yeh well it would do in power mode, and you answered your own question

naught to 60 in a Ferrari from the lights compared to naught to 60 in a mini

good grief, where they comin from
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Tell me more of this "vapour" of which you speak.

I've only heard of "Clouds, bro." :D

(Okay, now I'm the one trolling.)

Yeah, I like my Kanger kit at around 28 watts, too.

But again, this thread is about the ramp up differences, all other things being equal (same tank and build of whichever one you like), same wattage or temp, in either TC or power mode, between the DNA200 and DNA40.

Since you seem to like higher wattages (nothing wrong with that), ramp up is something you're probably trying to shorten.

There are those who like slower ramp ups at lower wattages. It's a thing.


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I havnt trolled anyone i tried to help you then back tracked because your dialogue wasnt making sence, then googled the atomisers your using and thats your answer.. meterphoricaly speaking youve got the best training shoes in the world .. evolv dna200 and your using string for laces being poor atomisers with screw in heater heads.. in your case all things arnt equal because your tools are piss poor..you dont know any different and you wont accept being told. Walk into any bonafide vape shop with your set up and argue in there.

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