Titanium set up issues.

[s.i.jerefos]

Thank You very much mate!
The clapton csv is only kanthal made or used Ti also?
Also could You inform about the AWG of each csv and what wires were used on the clapton set up?
Thanks in advance!

[Jentz9517]

Doesn't matter a whole lot on gauge as long as it's Gr.1 Ti the thicker the gauge the less choppy it will be it seems to regulate better, 24g. Is good. The Clapton is Ti and kanthal a-1 mix .

[Guest]

blueridgedog said:

Some strongly recommend drastically lowering preheat with Ti and I have blown several Ti coils...I have stopped using pure Ti as it is a pain in the rear for those reasons.

after 3 months of love hate relationship with temperature control I am back to A1 Kanthal and only needing to touch my build on a weekly basis re cotton I missed my Clapton too much to many headache to unstable .

[Jentz9517]

I get 3times the performance and flavor out of a standard wrap 24g. Ti build than any of my kanthal Clapton A-1's ever put out . Ti lasts months and when I do use kanthal I can taste iron, which is alarming. All it takes is good connections and the right csv. I wouldn't use steam engine for anything other than a starting reference then tweak the settings up a bit on excel

[RunsWithOtter]

I tried pulsing and got my coils fairly blue and yellow. The resistance was off a little and it still didn't vape well. I'm going to keep trying and taking it as operator error. I'll keep fighting to get my coils set up correctly.

[blueridgedog]

I have the SSV wire csv on one of my profiles, but it is useless.  I just use the standard Ti csv and it works great.

[Jentz9517]

blueridgedog said:

I have the SSV wire csv on one of my profiles, but it is useless.  I just use the standard Ti csv and it works great.

ya ssv is a titanium alloy "Tife" and has iron in it. I remember Jaquith saying its not even grade 1-5 he did a burn test and it nearly caught fire. SE is a must but found it to be a bit to cool. Out of all the grade1 I have tried I like my fasttech .5mm Ti the best and its cheap also

[RunsWithOtter]

@Jentz - Is there a material discussion topic somewhere? Just a compilation of materials and users trying them out and finding the preferences? 

[Jentz9517]

RunsWithOtter said:

@Jentz - Is there a material discussion topic somewhere? Just a compilation of materials and users trying them out and finding the preferences? 

I think there's a few topics over on ECF with people using unkamen and rio grande as most mentioned
I found those wires to be very dirty. lighting vapes has some ok wire for cleanliness It seems to be plated with something though? Titan wire brand is good but expensive and I see really no difference to the fasttech grade1 https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10015322/2839600-ti-grade-1-titanium-heating-wire-for-rebuildable

other than that I have found most of the info where I least expected it.. for instance scrolling through the help with ss316 topic there's alot of titanium info there..

[RunsWithOtter]

@Jentz - Alright. Thanks. I'll probably start being a regular around these forums. I've been into building for about 8 months. I've learned a LOT, but I still have so much more to learn since I don't have any kind of electrical background. I manage a small family B&M vape shop in Indiana, and I don't like talking about it on here since I'm on here pursuing knowledge and I don't want to come off as uneducated. I've got an electrical engineer that frequents my shop, and a tech that I constantly pick their brain for answers to questions I can't find. I've busted my ass to learn what I have. I'm just now starting on different types of temp control other than Nickel. There's still tons of different materials I have no idea what they are still. I learned well what I needed to for the mainstream market, and now I'm looking for more for myself at this point.
Also, is there a way to quote posts on these forums without using the mobile version? I can't seem to find a quote button.

[Jentz9517]

RunsWithOtter said:

@Jentz - Alright. Thanks. I'll probably start being a regular around these forums. I've been into building for about 8 months. I've learned a LOT, but I still have so much more to learn since I don't have any kind of electrical background. I manage a small family B&M vape shop in Indiana, and I don't like talking about it on here since I'm on here pursuing knowledge and I don't want to come off as uneducated. I've got an electrical engineer that frequents my shop, and a tech that I constantly pick their brain for answers to questions I can't find. I've busted my ass to learn what I have. I'm just now starting on different types of temp control other than Nickel. There's still tons of different materials I have no idea what they are still. I learned well what I needed to for the mainstream market, and now I'm looking for more for myself at this point.
Also, is there a way to quote posts on these forums without using the mobile version? I can't seem to find a quote button.

ya it takes alot of reading as far as quotes on mobile iphone I cant quote the last reply but I can scroll up to next or desktop version

[HugeEgo]

OP, the resistance difference between your coil and what steam engine says is what's causing the issue.  Even that small of a difference in ohms will make a pretty noticeable difference in the temperature of the vape.  I know Lightning Vapes just recently began carrying Ti wire, so I have no idea what quality of wire you're getting and whether it is truly CP Grade 1.  I have no reason to assume LV is being dishonest or carrying low quality wire, but just throwing it out there as a possibility (see next paragraph).

Another guy mentioned having problems with SweetSpot vapors wire.  I will tell you that SSV's wire is NOT Grade 1 Ti.  There is a PhD metallurgist over on ECF who has debunked their claims repeatedly. This is why SSV has to create their own TCR curve.  I am not saying there's anything wrong with vaping their weird Ti alloy, but it is not CP Grade 1.  And I certainly would not pay the price they charge for it.

I use Ti from Unkamen supplies.  He sources his wire for jewelry, but guarantees it is USA made and Grade 1.  I prefer buying from a source that isn't in the vaping industry because typically there is less broscience and price gouging involved.

Unkamen's Ti wire, for me, Ohms out to almost exactly what steam-engine says it should (every time, in every atomizer).  Right now I have a dual coil in a Crius that reads (cold) at .168?.  Steam engine says it should be .171.  That's so close that the margin of error is probably in the leg length and coil spacing.  In either case, it will not affect the accuracy.

Your build, to me, looks fine.  Assuming your atomizer isn't wonky and throwing off the readings, then I would have to assume there's something "different" about the wire you have.

[Guest]

I agree with you HugeEgo, Unkamen's Ti wire is pretty good wire (after cleaning it with everclear) 26g 5/4 wrap .3ohms is a good sweet-spot for me on sub-tanks after cleaning and rewicking it a 3rd time the ohms start to get a little jumpy. That's all I run is Ti weather it's single, Clapton and even quad coils on my 30mm Goliath RDA it's all been stable. I have been running the TI in nickel mode, I haven't got around to trying the Ti profile yet. Hear are some pics of my set up on the 40 and 200

[HugeEgo]

Laguz75 said:

I agree with you HugeEgo, Unkamen's Ti wire is pretty good wire (after cleaning it with everclear) 26g 5/4 wrap .3ohms is a good sweet-spot for me on sub-tanks after cleaning and rewicking it a 3rd time the ohms start to get a little jumpy. That's all I run is Ti weather it's single, Clapton and even quad coils on my 30mm Goliath RDA it's all been stable. I have been running the TI in nickel mode, I haven't got around to trying the Ti profile yet. Hear are some pics of my set up on the 40 and 200

I don't do RDA's, mainly out of laziness.  But I routinely build on my STM with a similar build to what you mentioned.  I usually go about 7/8 wraps, 2.5mm ID, 26 GA.  Comes to about 0.3?, which is exactly in line with steam-engine.

I have a couple of other RTA's but the Subtank mini outperforms them all, even though it's a single coil.  For instance, I just bought a Crius and the thing is a PITA to get wicked.  It's either dry or flooding.  No in between.  I finally got it somewhat wicked OK, but it hits temp protection instantly and puts out less vapor than my STM, even though it is a dual coil.  I may try a Chutulu or an Aromamizer next.  

Oh, and I prefer the original RBA deck on the mini.  I find that dremeling the juice channels on the deck makes it perform better than the new RBA deck with the holes in the side (not to mention you can vape the tank lower).  I wish Kanger would release an updated STM with maybe some cosmetic improvements.  Because I try a lot of stuff and always come back to it.

[Guest]

My girlfriend and I have been using the mini and the plus those are our main and only tanks we've been using. I have about 12 RBA's for the kanger. I've been really happy with them but after using my 30mm RDA I'm getting tired of dripping I found a tank that might be the best of both worlds the VCMT 30mm RTA tank. There coming out with more in a week or two and a new color too. So we'll see if it's worth $75 or so