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RunsWithOtter

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Everything posted by RunsWithOtter

  1. @Jentz - Alright. Thanks. I'll probably start being a regular around these forums. I've been into building for about 8 months. I've learned a LOT, but I still have so much more to learn since I don't have any kind of electrical background. I manage a small family B&M vape shop in Indiana, and I don't like talking about it on here since I'm on here pursuing knowledge and I don't want to come off as uneducated. I've got an electrical engineer that frequents my shop, and a tech that I constantly pick their brain for answers to questions I can't find. I've busted my ass to learn what I have. I'm just now starting on different types of temp control other than Nickel. There's still tons of different materials I have no idea what they are still. I learned well what I needed to for the mainstream market, and now I'm looking for more for myself at this point. Also, is there a way to quote posts on these forums without using the mobile version? I can't seem to find a quote button.
  2. @Jentz - Is there a material discussion topic somewhere? Just a compilation of materials and users trying them out and finding the preferences?
  3. I tried pulsing and got my coils fairly blue and yellow. The resistance was off a little and it still didn't vape well. I'm going to keep trying and taking it as operator error. I'll keep fighting to get my coils set up correctly.
  4. I'm glad this thread is helping some people out. I plan to try pulsing some Ti coils shortly to see if I can get some good results. I'll kill the preheat too and see if that helps. If it vapes good without the preheat, I may turn it back on at a lower wattage's with later attempts. SS will probably be my next venture. after that, I'm fairly lost on new metals to try. What is NiFe? That's one I'm not familiar with.
  5. Thanks for the pulsing advice. I'm hoping hot spots are just my issue. I've done 3 or 4 nickel builds this way and never had hot spots, but Ti seems to be different. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
  6. That's why I'm posting everything I'm doing to see if anyone has any insight into what is going wrong. I posted the picture and said I was getting hot spots, and I'm aware that burning cotton at 450 degrees isn't right.
  7. I've considered turning off the preheat, but the problem is that it isn't getting to temp correctly. Preheat seems as though it wouldn't be the issue. 2 five second puffs at 450 degrees shouldn't be giving me any kind of oxidation, especially wet. If you look at my monitor charts, you can see I'm blasting the coils with 65 watts and my read out says it's getting nowhere near temp. That's my issue. I've tried nickel and I don't like it. I've never tried titanium before, and all I want to know is if I'll like it or not. That's why this is all very frustrating to me. I'm not even sure if I'll enjoy the vape.
  8. I pulled my cotton and it appears hot spots may be my issue. I'm burnt out from all the attempts I've made at this. I'll try again at another point. Also, sorry for triple posting. The mobile version won't allow me to edit my previous post. The Share/Reply buttons cover up the edit button.
  9. Fresh built coil on my velocity. My previous attempts have been on my mutation, so I'm hoping this resolves my issues. Lightning Vapes Grade A1 Titanium, 24g 3mm 8wrap single coil. Came out to about .225 which is .015 off of what Steam said it should be. Made a CSV profile https://gyazo.com/60c3f8cce0dc9a20ce3fd5145e5381b2 Loaded it to my Escribe and uploaded the setting to my device. I also turned my preheat down to 100watts https://gyazo.com/2d2d672dbc13e49f4d813a74cb2b96a1 5 second puff 350 degrees, 65 watts. https://gyazo.com/354053544ff17f31f9058d804365e85a 5 second puff 450 degrees, 65 watts https://gyazo.com/dea3030a4d23017a0cda9bf6d7610d29 same setting, rejuiced my cotton. 5 second puff https://gyazo.com/32c42427e6d8cd86135a624add51144d It's safe to say I'm getting the same result off of my velocity as I am my Mutation.
  10. Chunky - It's fine. Thanks for the post anyway. Haha 3dge - The coil is spaced. I may try snapping a picture of it and throwing that on the first post too. Nothing is shorting out on the edge of the well or the barrel either. I've tried 2 different builds that were slightly different and set up CSV files for them each time with the same result. If I turn my temp over 400 running 65 watts, it will not hit temp. Edit - I've done a little digging in forums, and the problem may be my atomizer. I'll try it on my velocity to see if I get a different result. I just wasn't ready to take the build out of it yet.
  11. Nope. I make sure it was unchecked. You can even check my SS.
  12. I've tried 3 times now to set up titanium on my Realeaux, and I seem to be missing something. I'll try to keep this short and to the point. I'm running a single coil, Lightning Vapes Grade A1 Titanium, 24g spaced 8 wrap 3mm. It comes out to .205 I have it wicked and wet with the top cap on. I hop on the Steam and set up my CSV file. https://gyazo.com/927a18eba918779f6a693a4c8e32c0d5 The calculator came out about .035 off, but that shouldn't effect it to the degree of trouble I'm having. I save it in my DNA folder I have set up on my computer where I can find it, Load it to Escribe, then upload it to my device. https://gyazo.com/52460f0c8a36a79f6066956abbb3d48c I go to device monitor to test the file and make sure everything is working right, and my results seem to be off. At 350 degrees, and 65 watts, it appears to be working. https://gyazo.com/266004e055da95549b567ae10bbf33c8 I set it to 450 degrees, and It seems to strain to even get remotely close. This is the first and only time I've ever gotten it to even hit the 450, so I'm slightly surprised. https://gyazo.com/cb8d31f8dc23111cf8665cd9a23516b0 I can smell my cotton burning, even though it is plenty wet enough without being flooded. If I were to be drawing on it at this time, it would never even get close to the correct temp. I've never had a titanium build on any other device, so I don't have any experiences to compare this to. Is 450 Degrees F too much for titanium? What do most of you run for temp/wattage on titanium? I'm hoping someone will tell me I'm missing something simple and it starts working. This has been a major headache to me.
  13. @digatel - I like the tl;dr posts. It shows how much you like the RDA. When I use an RDA, I always look for the negatives. The positives most times are apparent, but no one ever talks about the cap on the velocity having buildup, or the post holes being average size. That would have been something I would have liked to have known even though it isn't that big of a deal overall. There's always the worry of over drip with any bottom airflow, but the added flavor makes it worth the pain. It's just not a drip and drive RDA. Haha. I'm definitely looking into the STRO now. Anthony - I've been hearing a lot of good about the snub nose RDA for flavor. I can't remember who it's by, but I've heard just as much good from the clones as I have the authentic. That would be my recommendation.
  14. @Bmcaurin - Not sure why I said mutation in that quote. I was throwing a TI build in my mutation yesterday, so I probably wasn't thinking. The posts on the regular velocity already leave a good bit of room to be shortened, so I bet the mini wouldn't be bad if they're only slightly shorter. Possibly bending my coils up a little but, but I'm sure it wouldn't be a complaint. I'm definitely going to put this on my list of RDAs to pick up. @Margucci - Looking at the 2 post deck of the Archon, the post holes don't look too promising. They seem a little bit too small to put anything other than basic builds in. I'm not sure if you mess with larger builds, but I'd keep an eye out to see what people are fitting in them. The Glacier looks a lot nicer, and even comes with extra posts from the looks of it. The copper cap looks gorgeous. I'll keep you in mind if I find anyone who has either of these.
  15. @bmclauren - How is the Velocity Mini? I've been contemplating picking one up. I never use the indirect airflow on my mutation and it looks as though all they did was shrink the barrel. Is the juice well or length of the post legs much different? I still am absolutly not a fan of top airflow. I've never actually hit a vector to know how it hits, but most times top airflow to me is a turbulent draw that I feel doesn't hit the coils right. There's probably never going to be a top airflow design I'll ever like. I wish the Indestructible didn't have it, I hate the Aeolus, etc. I was to see a compact atty with top airflow and a tapered in chuff cap with no spit back guard. It would keep the small well from leaking out the sides and allow me to drip straight in without removing the cap. @digatel - The only reason I really use the velocity is for the deck. I'm hoping something more attractive comes out with a 2 post deck with 4 lead holes again. I want to try the phenotype L/Anomolie clone, but I'd want to run it with a massive single coil. The only issue is there's no option for that due to its airflow size. I'd considered using a vape band to choke off one side the airflow on one side, but that would get old real fast. The STRO actually looks really nice. I'm going to look deeper into that one in a minute. I've still never tried the Sapor either. There has been a ton of hype around that one though. It may be worth looking into. I played with my friends Hobo V2? clone I think it was. I felt the inner barrel that screwed on was a little too thick. It held too much head, restricted builds with its size, and the O'rings were almost impossible to get the cap back on. surprisingly, it wasn't a bad RDA with all that said. Go ahead and start the topic. Haha. as soon as I got my first Stingray mod and Stillare V2, I knew I'd never go back to a tank.
  16. I was curious of the Marquis for a while. It seemed awesome for flavor, but I assumed the giant block in it would hold heat. I definitely agree about the deck on the plume veil. I love the design they put over the airflow. The post holes aren't the largest either. It's a good simple RDA, but I wouldn't try anything crazy in it. The airflow adjust O'rings also tend to be extremely stiff from the ones I've played with.
  17. I'll probably continue to wait for my escribe to give me the update notification. I'm just curious if I was missing something. The link you posted doesn't seem to work.
  18. Reviews only tell me so much, so I'd love to have a few more first hand impressions of RDAs you guys are using everyday. I'll throw some of mine out there too, along with other RDA's I've had experiences with. Velocity clone by Tobecco - I know this one is probably going to be most peoples top list, but here's my impression. the 2 post design with 4 separate holes makes it incredibly easy to build on and get that 5th wrap that previously I couldn't get on 3/4 post RDAs. The well is a perfect size for holding a good bit of juice. The post holes aren't quite big enough to fit some of my wider builds. I tend to have a lot of snagging issues when trying to fit stapled helix coils in. The airflow adjustment cap tends to have a ton of condensation build up. I find myself turning the airflow completely down and drawling hard on it to suck the buildup back inside. From all the Tobecco clones I've played with, none of the O'rings fit the same. Some are incredibly stiff and start tearing, some slide the cap off very easily, and some are perfect. Definitely not the best flavor atty, but I'd still rate it higher than a lot of others on the market for flavor. Royal Hunter Authentic - Absolutely love the look of the limited edition green and brass version. I call it my Green Ranger. The airflow was slightly more restrictive than I thought it would be wide open. Because of this, my builds don't dip below .2ohms. The airflow can't keep up. I tend to use it more on my mech mods more than anything. The juice well does not take kindly to over dripping. the coils sit too close to the well and there seems to be more spit back than I thought it would have had. The spit back guard catches it, but the holes will start to hold juice. I can't seem to look past it and find myself constantly cleaning the guard. the base has 2 O'rings that work nicely, but the brass cap only has one O'ring and is too loose imo. Flavor is decent, but nothing to rave about. Stillare V2 clone - Nice little 3 post. It was what I built some of my first coils on and found my love of 24g Nichrome on. The well leaves a bit to be desired, and the 2 part barrel tends to hold some condensation, but never got too messy unless you pulled the 2 apart. If someone is looking for a first time RDA, There's better out there than this, but there's also worse. The O'ring around the base was small, but worked well. Airflow wasn't great, but 24 gauge gave a good hit. There's no option for anything other than drip tips. The end of the chimney flattened out, which was my biggest gripe about this RDA. It would tend to have a lot of standing juice between the drip tip and base of metal. I would occasionally suck up juice. The standing juice also made it so that any drip tip I used would loosen up with over saturation, so nothing felt as though it fit right. Unless you can get one cheap, pass on this one.
  19. I got my first DNA box about 2 weeks ago. I was waiting for the Realeaux, and finally got it. First thing I noticed was the the watt feel option was no longer on Escribe(I watched Phils videos before attempting anything). I've been waiting those 2 weeks+ now for an Escribe update to hopefully bring back the option, but I haven't gotten an update notification yet. Does anyone from Evolv post on here when there is an update, has Escribe gotten an update in the last couple weeks and I'm just not seeing it, or did they move the option to a different place and I just didn't see it?
  20. I'd question what the holes are around the 510. If you plan on using an RDA, those look as though they'd fill up with juice should you over drip. With them hardly putting any money into the box itself for the price, I would also expect poor soldering and cheap wiring. You may want to make sure you'll be able to re-solder anything if you accidentally drop it and something comes loose, but you get what you pay for. In the end, all this is just speculation. It may be a good mod.
  21. @bmclaurin - Useful info! I've still got a ton of learning to do with the DNA boxes. I'll probably never hit my box at 200Watts, but it's good to know I can. Haha.
  22. @Jolley I guess for the way I vape, I prefer the option to remove my batteries and pop new ones in. I still use an external charger at night for charging. I'm using Imren 2500MaH 40A High Drains and they're running my for around 15 hours until I get low battery. They're only 25A continuous, but I keep my builds around .1-.12, and run 65-80watts. It's been a dream compared to my Snow Wolf which I only got around 7-9 hours of vape off of. For my style, the Reuleaux is my perfect box.
  23. @Panda Thank you so much for the replies. I don't have much experience messing with boards yet, especially now that it's actually something to worry about with the DNA board. I'm trying to take every little bit of information I can get and apply it to what I know without skipping over anything. @vaping bad Thanks for the links and info. They've definitely proved useful already.
  24. @Jaquith I'm just surprised the VW minimum isn't a little lower. If it were say .05, I'd be in love with the box.
  25. @Panda I don't have a tap and die kit to go though that process, so I may just use your calculation since it'll probably be more accurate than running it at what I am. The other guy who posted in this thread linked me to the manual. Page 4 shows a picture of the chart for the ohm range to hit the full 200watts. I'm understanding the range for the full 200 watts as you described it. I wasn't meaning that I would try that exact build again. I was just hoping to use something other than 30g for the build, but I don't want to sacrifice my watts for a little lower of a build. If I remember correctly, my initial Ni build was 3.5mm 30g duel coil 12 wrap. It was just annoying to build. I think I'll enjoy titanium a lot more. I normally use chrome, but I think when I click the "custom material" link, it may open up with internet explorer. That will hopefully solve that little problem. I'd delete IE, but my mom still lives in the 90's and she'd probably blow a fuse. Hahaha.
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