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Posted

Hi, been lurking a few days on here while I waited for my chip and components to arrive, so this is my first post.

I have seen a  few posts touch on this area but not seen the answer im looking for directly, so sorry if this has been asked and answered before.. ive just not found it.

I have my Hammond 1550p all cut etc, ill be running this with dual 18650's and have a sled sized to fit.
Now I have to just solder all the wires and fit it all to the case but here is were im a little unsure.

The 510 will by very tight to the top of the board due to the small size of the 1550p.. this is were the output wires to the 510 need to go, so I will have to mask the wires off with insulating tape once they are soldered. to ensure they don't short on the bottom of the 510 connector. 
I will be attaching the board to the metal case using brass standoffs and steel screws, thus the board will be earthed to the case, as will the 510... can I get away with only soldering the 510 positive and Not the 510 earth wire as I had done on my DNA40 build, as I understand they are internally connected on the board?

Posted

Yes you can use the metal case as a common ground, be careful that the stand off and screws are slim and don't extend beyond the tinned area around the holes.

From p16 of the datasheet

The DNA 200 has three mounting holes on the PCB. These holes are designed for #0 screws. There is an extended mounting pad of .125” diameter around each. These holes are electrically connected to each other and to ground. With careful design, the mounting pads can be used to ground the chassis to the DNA 200, and pass the output current through chassis to the connector. However, if using this method, ensure that the PCB remains in good contact with the board at all times. Split lock washers and a RoHS chromate conversion coating on the chassis are recommended.

Posted

Thank you for the reply and confirmation, hopefully ill get this baby built tonight and finally get to see how good this chip is :)
Ill be using a DNA200 mounting kit I bought from Stealthvape, the screws and standoffs should be the correct sixe for the ground pads.
This is my First DNA200 build and after building a DNA40 into the 1550p, I love its form factor and size, so hopefully it works, if not I have a CNC 806024 box from modmaker as a backup which should allow a little more room for the 510.

Posted
UKDTweak said:

Thank you for the reply and confirmation, hopefully ill get this baby built tonight and finally get to see how good this chip is :)
Ill be using a DNA200 mounting kit I bought from Stealthvape, the screws and standoffs should be the correct sixe for the ground pads.
This is my First DNA200 build and after building a DNA40 into the 1550p, I love its form factor and size, so hopefully it works, if not I have a CNC 806024 box from modmaker as a backup which should allow a little more room for the 510.

Mine worked ok. I used a mamu cradle to hold the board inside. And my box is the alpine tech cnc 1550p which is 3.5 mm taller and 2.5mm wider

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Posted

Nice work m8, but that extra room would have been handy, im having trouble with the 510, fat daddy is too long and wide and the varitube is a bot too long to so im improvising with a washer... Just soldering the 510 positive now and thats it done...

Posted

Yea hardest part was making te 510 not touch the batteries but also not overhanging the mod. And also I had to highly modify the sled and corners to fit the sled. Now there are smaller options for sleds

Posted

Yeah i used your pictures posted in the Show us your DNA thread, as a rough guide and ground my sled down and underneath the screw posts etc... but the 510 was still too close to the board, so now i have a washer under the 510... looks like a bad fat daddy... but it is all built and working, but its near 2am and ive to be up at 6.30 so ill have to post later today in work... ill try to get up pictures then..

Posted

You think if I use open frame sled I won't have to mod it I also found one on ebay it's made for 1550p box that dnt need to b modding but it only comes in blk n it has that cheap 3d print to it

Posted

You might get away with less modding, but in the standard 1550p Hammond I used is Very tight, you might still need to grind out the bottom corner post, but hard to say without seeing one of these printed sleds in place.

Posted

I have seen that sled and it is small, but you still need to be able to get a battery between the corner posts, certainly on the CNC version it should be ok, but the original 1550p will need some post grinding.

Posted

Yeah I have that box, the standard sled I used in this one fits into it with ease and a few ml off three corners of the sled allow it to fit tight to one side flush, and leaves good room for the chip, wires and 510.. :)

Posted

cheers, the up/down buttons are Vamo buttons, the Fire button came out of the Cloupor Mini I had spare after I previously upgraded with it a DNA40 and tactile buttons... just had to glue a small plastic washer on the back of it to reach the onboard button.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi, i just wired it as per the picture attached.

18650.jpg 
As the space between the B+ and tab 3 & 2 were so close, i did not use wire to join them, instead i just ran solder down from the B+ to the 3 & 2 tabs in one run.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Where did you get your standoffs etc. and how did you figure out wher to drill the holes to mount it? Im doing a 1590g alpine enclosure dna 200 and its pre cut for buttons and screen but no mounting holes so i need to figure out how to go about doing this... :(

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