UKDTweak Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Hi, been lurking a few days on here while I waited for my chip and components to arrive, so this is my first post.I have seen a few posts touch on this area but not seen the answer im looking for directly, so sorry if this has been asked and answered before.. ive just not found it.I have my Hammond 1550p all cut etc, ill be running this with dual 18650's and have a sled sized to fit.Now I have to just solder all the wires and fit it all to the case but here is were im a little unsure.The 510 will by very tight to the top of the board due to the small size of the 1550p.. this is were the output wires to the 510 need to go, so I will have to mask the wires off with insulating tape once they are soldered. to ensure they don't short on the bottom of the 510 connector. I will be attaching the board to the metal case using brass standoffs and steel screws, thus the board will be earthed to the case, as will the 510... can I get away with only soldering the 510 positive and Not the 510 earth wire as I had done on my DNA40 build, as I understand they are internally connected on the board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Yes you can use the metal case as a common ground, be careful that the stand off and screws are slim and don't extend beyond the tinned area around the holes.From p16 of the datasheet Quote The DNA 200 has three mounting holes on the PCB. These holes are designed for #0 screws. There is an extended mounting pad of .125â diameter around each. These holes are electrically connected to each other and to ground. With careful design, the mounting pads can be used to ground the chassis to the DNA 200, and pass the output current through chassis to the connector. However, if using this method, ensure that the PCB remains in good contact with the board at all times. Split lock washers and a RoHS chromate conversion coating on the chassis are recommended. Expand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Thank you for the reply and confirmation, hopefully ill get this baby built tonight and finally get to see how good this chip is Ill be using a DNA200 mounting kit I bought from Stealthvape, the screws and standoffs should be the correct sixe for the ground pads.This is my First DNA200 build and after building a DNA40 into the 1550p, I love its form factor and size, so hopefully it works, if not I have a CNC 806024 box from modmaker as a backup which should allow a little more room for the 510. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 UKDTweak said: Thank you for the reply and confirmation, hopefully ill get this baby built tonight and finally get to see how good this chip is Ill be using a DNA200 mounting kit I bought from Stealthvape, the screws and standoffs should be the correct sixe for the ground pads.This is my First DNA200 build and after building a DNA40 into the 1550p, I love its form factor and size, so hopefully it works, if not I have a CNC 806024 box from modmaker as a backup which should allow a little more room for the 510. Expand Mine worked ok. I used a mamu cradle to hold the board inside. And my box is the alpine tech cnc 1550p which is 3.5 mm taller and 2.5mm wider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Nice work m8, but that extra room would have been handy, im having trouble with the 510, fat daddy is too long and wide and the varitube is a bot too long to so im improvising with a washer... Just soldering the 510 positive now and thats it done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomr1088 Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Yea hardest part was making te 510 not touch the batteries but also not overhanging the mod. And also I had to highly modify the sled and corners to fit the sled. Now there are smaller options for sleds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Yeah i used your pictures posted in the Show us your DNA thread, as a rough guide and ground my sled down and underneath the screw posts etc... but the 510 was still too close to the board, so now i have a washer under the 510... looks like a bad fat daddy... but it is all built and working, but its near 2am and ive to be up at 6.30 so ill have to post later today in work... ill try to get up pictures then.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Here you go, the box is messy on the outside from the masking tape, ive not had a chance to clean it up yet, but it works and that's the main thing.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdizzle Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 What battery sled did you guys use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 I used this one, just cut down the keys..http://www.modmaker.co.uk/Mod-Making-Supplies/Battery-Holders/Keystone-1048-Dual-18650-Battery-Holder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottwire Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 You think if I use open frame sled I won't have to mod it I also found one on ebay it's made for 1550p box that dnt need to b modding but it only comes in blk n it has that cheap 3d print to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 You might get away with less modding, but in the standard 1550p Hammond I used is Very tight, you might still need to grind out the bottom corner post, but hard to say without seeing one of these printed sleds in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottwire Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321807609357&alt=web Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 I have seen that sled and it is small, but you still need to be able to get a battery between the corner posts, certainly on the CNC version it should be ok, but the original 1550p will need some post grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottwire Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Yeah I'm using a 1550 P+ its's 3.5mm longer and 2.5mm wider but it has post unlike the CNC 1550 p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Yeah I have that box, the standard sled I used in this one fits into it with ease and a few ml off three corners of the sled allow it to fit tight to one side flush, and leaves good room for the chip, wires and 510.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaporlips Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 Loving it good job. What exactly did you use for the push button pieces? You mentioned screws, but that's not what those are right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 cheers, the up/down buttons are Vamo buttons, the Fire button came out of the Cloupor Mini I had spare after I previously upgraded with it a DNA40 and tactile buttons... just had to glue a small plastic washer on the back of it to reach the onboard button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chronzz Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 can you post a diagram of your battery wiring. I'm trying to build one just like yours but can't figure out the battery connection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Hi, i just wired it as per the picture attached. As the space between the B+ and tab 3 & 2 were so close, i did not use wire to join them, instead i just ran solder down from the B+ to the 3 & 2 tabs in one run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chronzz Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 thank you so much bro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Forgot to say, for the B- and tab 0 (G in the picture), i also just ran solder between the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chronzz Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 yea noticed that in the diagram . thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acidtabvocab Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Where did you get your standoffs etc. and how did you figure out wher to drill the holes to mount it? Im doing a 1590g alpine enclosure dna 200 and its pre cut for buttons and screen but no mounting holes so i need to figure out how to go about doing this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UKDTweak Posted December 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 I got the standoffs as part of a DNA200 fitting kit from Stealthvape.co.uk, this includes a template for cutting and drilling etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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