Temperature Proteted WARNING message confusion?

[SiNiST3R]

With my very limited knowledge on vaping, I have a DNA200 and get this temp warning. Looking in Escribe I see it occurs when there is a conflict between temp setting and wattage setting. If the wattage setting tries to push temp past the temp setting the temp protect warning triggers and lowers wattage to keep temp at set temp. Mostly this will occure with a low temp setting, occurring more and faster the higher the wattage setting. Low wattage settings will take longer to hit temp warning high settings faster but once temp setting and temp protect warning pops the wattage setting is no longer relevant as the chip will drop wattage to protect the temp setting... If I'm not mistaken this is True Temperature Control.

[SiNiST3R]

It would be cool if we got the real time temp when NOT in TC mode, escribe shows the coil hit the wattage setting and flatline on it. Wattage is flat but temp of the coil is not. With TC the wattage will vary but temp stays relatively flat.it would be nice to see what temps look like on a wattage setting puff.

[sivaas]

Ok i read through this forum and my problem is similar to the original problem. i have a lava box dna 200 useing a sub tank mini with the Ni200 coil packs. the mod worked for a little while then randomly started acting dumb. when it reads the ohms its usualy like .5 off or so ive tried several new Ni200 coils bought a whole new subtank mini and tried kanthol coils same thing. the big problem is when using Ni (set to 350F and 29w) when hit it only goes up to about 8w before flashing the Temperature Protected warning. I tried to get some help from volcano cigs and the support said "You may need to change the temperature protection settings in your device. The ohms will change when in temperature control mode." im stumped and id realy like to use my $170 mod lol. thanks for any help.  

[Spector NS5 RD]

sivaas said:

Ok i read through this forum and my problem is similar to the original problem. i have a lava box dna 200 useing a sub tank mini with the Ni200 coil packs. the mod worked for a little while then randomly started acting dumb. when it reads the ohms its usualy like .5 off or so ive tried several new Ni200 coils bought a whole new subtank mini and tried kanthol coils same thing. the big problem is when using Ni (set to 350F and 29w) when hit it only goes up to about 8w before flashing the Temperature Protected warning. I tried to get some help from volcano cigs and the support said "You may need to change the temperature protection settings in your device. The ohms will change when in temperature control mode." im stumped and id realy like to use my $170 mod lol. thanks for any help.  

the premade kanger ni200 coils were janky at best (the horizontal coils were pretty bad for tc, i'm not sure how the new vertical ni200 coils perform.) 350° F is very low for a temp setting. i usually vape in the 480°F - 550°F. i don't use kanger coils anymore because they were so inconsistent when it came to the vape quality. also make sure you "mod resistance" is set correctly in escribe. it's best to test your specific mod's res but, 0.007 seems to be the average for the lavavbox.

when your subtank is at room temp, with a ni200 kanger coil installed, what is the cold ohm reading on your lavabox. it should close to .15 (.14 - .17 is also normal).  

[black lace]

sivaas said:

Ok i read through this forum and my problem is similar to the original problem. i have a lava box dna 200 useing a sub tank mini with the Ni200 coil packs. the mod worked for a little while then randomly started acting dumb. when it reads the ohms its usualy like .5 off or so ive tried several new Ni200 coils bought a whole new subtank mini and tried kanthol coils same thing. the big problem is when using Ni (set to 350F and 29w) when hit it only goes up to about 8w before flashing the Temperature Protected warning. I tried to get some help from volcano cigs and the support said "You may need to change the temperature protection settings in your device. The ohms will change when in temperature control mode." im stumped and id realy like to use my $170 mod lol. thanks for any help.  

sorry to put my two penneth worth in but..
not the best of attys for the money you pay, bottom center pin doesn't make a sound contact with whatever you screw into or onto it, (replacement coil or coil deck base doesn't meet the top of that center pin very well) -- (if your connections are not solid you may get temp protect flashing up before any vapour)
pull the centre pin out
put a blob of solder on the top of it
put it back in
then when you screw in your build deck you can see you have a solid connection because the centre pin will get pushed .5mm out the bottom of the atty.

you will never get a sound reading until you have established a sound consistent connection.

I also own two sub tanks and also two lemo v2, and had to lengthen the bottom pins from new straight out the box before even bothering to put near a mod,
also the pre-built coils ive seen are so tightly wicked they don't perform very well with high vg juice, no flow, good for supporting hair thin wire from distorting, but nothing els..

[Spector NS5 RD]

black lace said:

sorry to put my two penneth worth in but..
not the best of attys for the money you pay, bottom center pin doesn't make a sound contact with whatever you screw into or onto it, (replacement coil or coil deck base doesn't meet the top of that center pin very well) -- (if your connections are not solid you may get temp protect flashing up before any vapour)
pull the centre pin out
put a blob of solder on the top of it
put it back in
then when you screw in your build deck you can see you have a solid connection because the centre pin will get pushed .5mm out the bottom of the atty.

you will never get a sound reading until you have established a sound consistent connection.

I also own two sub tanks and also two lemo v2, and had to lengthen the bottom pins from new straight out the box before even bothering to put near a mod,
also the pre-built coils ive seen are so tightly wicked they don't perform very well with high vg juice, no flow, good for supporting hair thin wire from distorting, but nothing els..

i have to agree with you when it comes to me owning two STM's and a lemo drop. they have been the worst performers for tc, in terms of stability. the lemo being the worst. i had to retire one STM do to it not behaving in regular good ole power mode. the lemo is ok most of the time, but only with kanthal. i don't bother to try and do tc with those type of tanks anymore. i find the design of my aromamizer's 510 to be the best for tc, along with a few other RTA's that don't use premade heads.

[scooby]

I really can't see the need for adjustable centre pins on atty's, it's just a throw back from the days of mech mods.

A fixed solid connection is required for stability. I have a number of Squape atty's that suffered badly from inconsistent connection of the centre pin.
I fixed them by stripping 5-6 strands  from some 18 gauge siicon wire and putting that down the threaded hole in the base and then screwing in the centre pin,
it bites into the wire and makes a better connection.

I'm a temp limiting vaper although although the temp control route is just as viable and I can see why some use that.  I don't see the DNA 200 as a temp controlled device,
I feel a true temp controlled device would maintain a set temp by controlling the time the power is supplied, the power being a constant and the time variable. I'm not sure that would make for a good vape experience though.
Cutting the power as it is now in my view makes it a temp limiting device. Just my thoughts.