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Strange Temp Control Issues (Not working at all)


smashyrhead

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Have had this issue the past few weeks on my Vaporshark. No temp builds or premade temp coils work. Using correct TCR csv files, different materials, tanks, drippers you name it.. Temp always fires in straight power mode or the screen will glitch and display 33000+ degrees or it will be set at say, 450 degrees and go up to 800 on the screen. Seems this started happening after the 2/29 firmware update got pushed through escribe. Has anyone seen this before? Mod is just out of warranty with VS. IMG_6262.png 

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i've had that happen a few times on some of my 40's and 200's. it was one of two things. loose/bad connection somewhere between the board and the coil or the base resistance was too low for the dna board to accurately control temp. it was kinda weird and funny watching my screen temp go into the THOUSANDS but i would make sure my build was within ohm spec and make sure all my connections were secure. that's what fixed it FOR ME.

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A TCR curve is just that, a curve. The board performs the calculation based on resistance, and displays the temperature. For your device to display that high of a temperature something triggered a massive resistance spike while firing.

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alright, so after trying older firmware etc, and different builds (keeping in mind the same builds that are giving me problems used to work flawlessly on this mod..) and going through the logs with nick.. i think it may be safe to say there's probably a problem with the internal connection on the devices 510. i have heard a few people have had issues with the vs dna 200 and weak solder points on either the board or the 510.. so looks like i will have to most likely send the device to them and pay for it since it's out of warranty..

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I had the EXACT same issue with a HotCig DX200 I purchased used.

It worked fine for about 2-3 weeks, and then TC was not stable, eventually started displaying bizarre temperatures like you're seeing, and bounce out of TC.

Turns out the person I bought it from had an issue when HE first bought it new from Gearbest.com. So, he returned it to them, and they fixed it.....

It was the WORST repair job I have ever seen!  They used BARE wire, without insulation, it was two thinner pieces of wire soldered together to make one thicker piece, and the frayed end that was attached to the 510 connector was BARELY attached by SOME of the frayed ends. When I used a small screwdriver to move some of the frayed wire out of the way to get a better view of the connection to the 510, the wire just came completely off!  I'm shocked/surprised it ever worked!  

Since the 510 on the HotCig DX200 was a press fit, I had to make a small tool to I made pull the 510 out, and replace it.  I used a Varitube to replace it, and some 14 gauge silicone wire. The hardest part was getting the nut inside the case tight, and lined up so the back cover of the module containing the DNA200 board could be put back on without interfering with the cover being installed.

The person I bought it from was great, offered to pay to have it repaired, or pay me for the cost of the parts to repair it after he saw the pictures of the Gearbest.com repair job...... 

I learned a valuable lesson, NEVER buy anything from Gearbest.com that you may have to send back to them which they may choose to repair!


20160524_054224.jpg  20160524_054147.jpg

20160524_054147.jpg

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TechnoGeek said:

I had the EXACT same issue with a HotCig DX200 I purchased used.

It worked fine for about 2-3 weeks, and then TC was not stable, eventually started displaying bizarre temperatures like you're seeing, and bounce out of TC.

Turns out the person I bought it from had an issue when HE first bought it new from Gearbest.com. So, he returned it to them, and they fixed it.....

It was the WORST repair job I have ever seen!  They used BARE wire, without insulation, it was two thinner pieces of wire soldered together to make one thicker piece, and the frayed end that was attached to the 510 connector was BARELY attached by SOME of the frayed ends. When I used a small screwdriver to move some of the frayed wire out of the way to get a better view of the connection to the 510, the wire just came completely off!  I'm shocked/surprised it ever worked!  

Since the 510 on the HotCig DX200 was a press fit, I had to make a small tool to I made pull the 510 out, and replace it.  I used a Varitube to replace it, and some 14 gauge silicone wire. The hardest part was getting the nut inside the case tight, and lined up so the back cover of the module containing the DNA200 board could be put back on without interfering with the cover being installed.

The person I bought it from was great, offered to pay to have it repaired, or pay me for the cost of the parts to repair it after he saw the pictures of the Gearbest.com repair job...... 

I learned a valuable lesson, NEVER buy anything from Gearbest.com that you may have to send back to them which they may choose to repair!


20160524_054224.jpg  20160524_054147.jpg

wow, whatever that is, it's just plain horrible. worst repair i've seen yet on a dna 200 board. bare wire, bad soldering...........etc. glad to hear you have skills to repair it. 
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  • 2 weeks later...

I would put my money on the 510 on the mod has collapsed and the power out wire (soldered to center pin) is ratling around, fitting the aspire atty may have a slightly longer reach, so kind of works better, becsuse of a slightly firmer hold, you could ask at a vape shop if they can fit a new 510 or at least recomend someone..

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