help pls ohms question

[poopy-_-]

Hi I just recently got a dna 250 and when I vape in watt dominant mode my ohms keep increasing by a lot.  In the other mods I've used when you attach the atty the ohms are set and don't change but with the triade when I've finished taking a hit on a .25 ohm atty it will say the ohms are .36-.37 I've tried locking the ohms as well but it doesn't seem to help. Am I missing something or is there a way to keep the ohms from changing so much?  Im vapping at 85 watts with the temp set to 430f. Thanks.

[Wayneo]

Welcome. What you're seeing is perfectly fine and normal. The values you are seeing are the current/live values of your coil due to heat. These boards also have a feature called 'refinement' which gets disabled if you lock the ohms. Locking the ohms on a DNA board is not mandatory.

From the DNA 250 datasheet

Ohms display: The resistance of the atomizer attached to the device. When using a temperature sensing coil, this is the normalized resistance of the coil at 70°F 

Resistance lock: The DNA 250 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 250 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.

[poopy-_-]

ok thanks for the help it just seemed a bit weird.  Glad to know its not acting up.

[James]

What material is your coil? If it is rising that much, I am guessing it is temperature-sensing.

Do you have temperature protection disabled, or are you using a profile whose material is set to Watts? Otherwise, if the device is allowed to temperature protect, it will kick over to a display of the Cold Ohms, which does not change live.

[poopy-_-]

its a profile whose material is set to watts but it does display a temp under the ohms if that matters im unsure.  It was just worrying me cause of the amount it was changing.  The tank is a uwell crown 3 using a premade coil.  Something else I've noticed recently is when I push the fire button the watts go up gradually, it is set to 78 watts but when I push the fire button it goes to like 38.5watts for half a second then to the full 78 watts its really kinda weird.  It may be the tank since its acting strangely too it doesn't really screw on like the rest of my attys.  It gets tight and hard to screw on before its close to flush and yet once its flush it can kinda just be screwed on indefinitely.  Its a tfv8 using the rba head which is when it started to act up.

[giz_60]

1 hour ago, poopy-_- said:

its a profile whose material is set to watts but it does display a temp under the ohms if that matters im unsure.  It was just worrying me cause of the amount it was changing.  The tank is a uwell crown 3 using a premade coil.  Something else I've noticed recently is when I push the fire button the watts go up gradually, it is set to 78 watts but when I push the fire button it goes to like 38.5watts for half a second then to the full 78 watts its really kinda weird.  It may be the tank since its acting strangely too it doesn't really screw on like the rest of my attys.  It gets tight and hard to screw on before its close to flush and yet once its flush it can kinda just be screwed on indefinitely.  Its a tfv8 using the rba head which is when it started to act up.

Sounds like you might have some buggered up threads on that TFV base... and, the TFV atty's are known to have issues due to the floating pin in the base. Any atty with a floating pin is likely to cause weird resistance fluctuations... The wattage seen on the screen is real time...

[Adam_Aves]

Hello @Wayneo I saw some of your replies in the threads, helpful.  can I ask,  I have a Triade 250 c and some temp capable coils.  Do you recommend not locking the resistance if the resistance cold stays about the same?  And in replay mode with same coils is it best to  leave things and not lock , thanks

[Wayneo]

@Adam_Aves I can only vouch for myself and all the other mods here (and I think we'd all give this same answer). Now, my replies in this thread was for the Non color mod, and a year ago. So here goes. On your 250C, if you have stable readings (Atomizer Analyzer) , then NO, you never need to lock the resistance in any mode.  

[Wayneo]

@Adam_Aves I notice that another mod answered you before. I also saw what atty you have. I took this from their site

Recommended Settings:
Triple Titanium w/ Black Ceramic Coil: 20-25W; TC-Ti, 350-400F   <- that says you should be using the Titanium material profile and 25 watts & 350-400F
13mm Sequoia Ceramic Donut: 15-25W; TC-Ni, 300-400F    <- that says you should be using the Nickel material profile, 15-25watts & 300-400F

I can try to answer your questions but I have no clue how things are on your end. I'm sure there are other forums that are more knowledgeable about that atty and settings. My first answer remains the same.

[Adam_Aves]

hi, i had been using an arctic fox firmware setup where you have to lock resistance, so it was just weird coming to dna and it seems its best not to lock resistance( generally ) unless coil fluctuates or drifts alot.  its working very well in replay,   and for the triple coils mentioned above you can push them a bit more , 35 watts is good.   These triple ti coils usually sit at .35 or .36 as my room temperature fluctuates.  They usually dont move around to much at all though, I am thinking I will not lock and see the results.

 

I am really happy to have this Triade 250 C, very satisfied already.