Margucci

provided all else is equal, the chip will have no issue at all chain vaping at 90 watts. i can do that on my lavabox with ease. i would be surprised with 1 board failing (but after all, things happen). i would be astonished with 2 boards failing. the fact that you have had issues with 4 boards now should tell you that there is an issue somewhere else.

yea never order from gearbest. ever. ever. even getting anything complicated from fastech can be a nightmare. all i get at this point are things like wires, tanks and drippers, tools, etc. if i ever have the need again for a cheapie mod i might order it from them but thats about all.

with a good quality battery pack it wont make too much of a difference. however, if you are using something like a 20C lipo in the mod or just one which is overall terrible quality your current draw will change the effective capacity much more. this is of course assuming that the tests are run at the same wattage (so lower resistance would result in a higher current draw).

i am getting a most constant vape on the 0.5ohm SS coils in TC mode. it was suggested that the Ni leads in the coils are what is causing the TC issues in the crown coils. this is necessary so that the final resistance of the coil is what is intended (since Ni resistance is incredibly low. i was thinking that perhaps the reason why i am getting a better TC vape with the 0.5ohm coils is because the Ni leads are shorter. because the total coil resistance of the coil is higher there is more SS wire and less Ni. just an idea i had.

if you run the battery analyzer it will calculate how the energy extracted from the battery (the exact Wh) will change the voltage of the battery pack. essentially what it does is fully charge the pack and simulate taking pulls as a specific wattage until the battery reaches its set cutoff voltage. through doing that it knows how much energy has been used and it will adjust the battery meter accordingly. just because the battery says 1400 mAh doesnt mean that is the capacity you will experience. batteries are more efficient the lower the current draw. this is why when you run the battery analyzer its important to set the wattage to what you typically vape at (take into account that the wattage you have set isnt the wattage being used for the majority of time when under TC). also, not all packs are created equal. some are just over rated.

just as an estimate from the hardware monitor it seems like its at least 0.1s

i thought escribe updated automatically? my version was almost a month and a half out of date. i also checked, auto update is turned on. thanks for the heads up though. i did install the newest version and everything is great.

we are aware of how to do this. the point is that when you are spending the amounts we are on mods (after all they arent $50 items on fasttech), these are the things which should have been done beforehand.

im having the same issue. im using 1.0.32 of escribe and i am not seeing the option to adjust wattage increments.

if you are just looking for TCR of a uniform wire build (all the same type of wire,) than all you need to do is select a single round wire of that type. no other field matters as it will all be the same. if you want to calculate resistance (or any other value) than you need to completely fill out the wire wizard. finally, if you are going to be doing a hybrid wire build (at least two different types of wire,) and want accurate information including TCR you need to completely fill it out as well. also wire wizard can do parallel builds just fine. if you are doing parallel coils (two different coils) in the first drop down in the wire builder choose parallel. in the new field which opens to the right build the individual coils which will be installed. if you are doing a parallel wrap (lets say two wires wrapped together to form one coil) in the first drop down you would select twisted as the type, choose the number of wires, and for the twist pitch just set it to something absurdly high (ie. 500mm) to that they are not calculated as twisted at all. one limitation in the tool is that you cant do parallel wraps with different materials using this method. for example lets say you wanted to parallel wrap one kantal wire with either another wire type (ie SS) or design (ie ribbon), you are unable to input that into the steam engine.

this has already been suggested in another thread. however, it is important enough that i dont care. this request gets a big +1 from me.

i doubt either will fit. here is the link to the same size lipo which is in the lavabox and both of the ones you posted are larger. http://www.protovapor.com/product/fullymax-11-1v-3s-900mah-30c-lithium-polymer-battery-pack/ there is a small chance that the 1300 mah might be able to fit (but i doubt it). but there is no chance at all that the 2200 mAh one will. also, the ones you linked are both 25C max current discharge and not 30C. so the current will be lower and depending on your settings and the resistance of your coils that can cause issues. i wouldnt chance it.

the mod resistance will not cause any issues with the reliability of the device. it can impact the performance of temperature control though. do make sure that when you run that test your current mod resistance is set to 0 otherwise you wont get the proper result. if your result truly is 0.004 that is actually quite good. most devices have an internal resistance much higher than that.

if you are shoving a copper rod in the 510 do not fire it. just make sure that your current mod resistance is set to 0 and then run the atomizer tool in escribe with the 510 shorted (again DO NOT fire the device). whatever the atomizer tool is reading multiply by 0.8 and that is your mod resistance. this is the best method. however, if you are using copper wire going across the posts on a RDA to short it out do the same thing in escribe but take the resistance in the atomizer tool and multiply it by 0.5 and set that as your mod resistance. taking 50% of this value is necessary because you need to account for the extra resistance of the RDA and copper wire.

i ran my test with a room temp at about 71*F CASE COOLING TIME CONSTANT: 933.22 CASE HEATING TIME CONSTANT: 308.27 CASE USB CHANGE TEMPERATURE RISE: 4.34 F 9.8 F/A

so i had in interesting exchange with them over twitter. they tweeted that there was the ecig file for the DNA.... Me: "what method did you use to determine the mod resistance of 0.007 ohm?" Them: "we had a little help from the folks at evolv" Me: "evolv cant help you with that. only testing your mod yourself with a short will." Them: "we obtained out testing method from evolv and came to our answer" ..... so they did no testing at all and probably just copied it from vaporshark or the evolv reference model. what they needed to do was test a decent number of lavaboxes to determine the variance and then calculate an amount representative of the average while still being conservative enough to not cause issues with outliers. they did no work at all to set this device up correctly. none at all. its at least good that we are able to do their work for them using the escribe software. great work on the chip and software evolv. terrible implementation by volcano.

has anyone tried making hybrid wires and using them in TC? i was thinking of doing something like a 28GA Ni200 core with 32GA 316SS wrapped clapton. my goal is to try and make something with accurate temp control but with the flavor i prefer from SS wire. im game for giving it a try for myself but if someone has already experimented they may be able to save me some effort and materials. currently i am building mostly in SS or kanthal but i do have some Ni wire on order. i figure that if the hybrid wires dont work out i can just build some Ni coils in my tanks for when im on the road.

i have pretty much switched to all SS wire for my builds currently. i just like working with it. right now im just using it in power mode though. SS has its place, that place is just not accurate temp control.

of course that will make a difference. without any juice or wick the coil heats up and cools down much faster than it would as an entire system as you would normally vape it. titanium has a very low thermal capacity and since the resistance is just a function of the temperature the rapid cooling and heating of the coil without wicking or juice will cause more abrupt resistance changes. that being said, it is still more likely that it is an imperfection in the wire, issue with the contact with the posts, or one of the other things mentioned above.

i dont trust that mod resistance in the slightest. it honestly feel like they just copied it from the vaporshark instead of testing it themselves. someone on here i believe is making some brass shorting pins which i would be very interested in purchasing (depending on the price and shipping). there have been quite a few people who have had quite a large swing in mod resistance on their DNA devices. for reliable TC it is 100% necessary for each mod to be tested individually. thanks a lot for the link though. i will see what they update in there. honestly though, im only interested in the mod resistance anyways. the only two other things (battery and case thermals) we can run the tests for easily on our own.

i would screw it on another couple of mods or ohmmeters to see what those spit out. it could be that your mod resistance is just huge. if everywhere you test it the lavabox is constantly reading high by the same amount (in this case 0.08, which is a lot), than take 80% of that value and use that as your mod resistance (assuming that it is currently set to 0). i do have to say that 0.08ohm would be huge for the mod resistance though. some people are reporting 0.02, which is still large compared to readings of 0.007-0.008 that others are seeing. this is why mod makers need to realize that the mod resistance is incredibly important and needs to be tested for EACH AND EVERY mod. a standardized value will not do.

this is why volcano needs to come out with an extended battery pack and back panel upgrade. expand the rear door a bit and shove a 1300-1500mAh LiPo in there instead. going with a 1500 would give you an extra 2/3 juice.

the same way that most other mods which have a power off function still do. it is essentially a deep sleep mode. the chip itself uses almost no power. however, in his situation when the power button repeatedly turns on the screen to flash the message that the mod is locked that is what is using the vast majority of the power. at least that is the way that i am interpreting his post.

I see where he is going with it. Even with the screen locked the display still turns on to tell him that it's locked. Even if the screen is only on showing the message for 2 seconds, over several hours it will slowly drain the battery.

one thing to remember as well is that your battery life will improve greatly if you are using temperature control. if you are using a non TC build and vaping at 90W all the time you will be using significantly more power than if it was a Ni build which levels out at 30W when the temp as been hit. that being said the wismec DNA200 is running 3x18650 and if you dont plan on going anywhere near 200W you can shove in 3x3000mAh batteries for a total of over 30,000Wh. you just have the put up with the bulk and weight.