Tomr1088

where did you get that gray part that's between the case and the white screen holder?[/QUOTE] Indeed it's a shaved down and trimmed mamu faceplate and it looks gray cause I spray painted the face black so u can't tell from the outside that it's there

My newest dna200 creation

Just finished this dual 18650 in a Hammond 1550p with balance leads hard wired

Your having the popular screen issue everyone has discussed. The screen ribbon is getting pinched between the fire button.

I'm just goin out on a limb but I've seen a lot of weird issues with mods grounded through the casing. Ones that were installer error obviously. But I don't suppose that while firing the connection problem is causing an atomizer resistance reading far off in that the chip is overpowering and causing an amp draw past the limit while not being aware of it. This could cause the fuse to pop but also possibly the board to fry itself

Looks like they meant it when they said the faceplate will be the only difference. Looks like they made it better and used better buttons. Wonder if they made a better 510. Wanna see that and what the sides look like.

Just saw this. If anyone wanted to see how the production model looks. Looks way better but not worth the risk to me still. Idk. If I can sel my fixed Hana and I see the new one isn't problematic and it's not more than 250 I'll buy.

Wire length doesn't seem to affect the tcr either anyways. As long as the different wires are still proportionate to each other which they are

Well if he only connected one Atty it wouldn't matter what the other one is doing. I'm assuming he won't be using both 510s unless he wants both firing.

Ha thanks I'm not that concerned. I think I prefer the beta. Now if I can get the beta to have a straight 510 sent to me as well I could careless about the Hana. If I keep it it might just end up getting powercoated

Make sure you have the latest firmware that improved glitches and screen problems due screen ribbon movement and other wore movement. I know it solved a lot of people's problems. And also check your firing brightness and other screen brightness settings in escribe.

[QUOTE=KTMRider]I'm almost jealous. I really wanted a reference mod (still do). My Hana is working great now though. I'll get around to changing the connector one of these days. If/when the reference mod goes on sale, I'll order one since I still have an extra DNA200 board with no home. [/QUOTE If you use the bullet connectors inside an xt30 housing they fit perfect in the Hana btw.

Tom, Did you make some special deal with "John" on the "Swap" to have your Hana repaired and returned? Swap as in "to exchange one item for another". As far as I know there is no plan to return your Hana repaired. John is investigating problems with the Hana units to determine if the problems are from the Modder or an Evolv problem. Also why would you want the Hana back anyway. It has undersized battery wiring and the battery connector is also undersized for the current it may need to handle. I "Swapped" my Hana for an Evolv unit that John was kind enough to send me. And I'll tell you this the only way they are getting the Proto Evolv unit back is to prying it out of my cold dead hands. Regards, George[/QUOTE] I repaired my screen and battery connector I upgraded to xt30 bullet connectors(removed the bullets from the xt30 housing and used heatshrink) and I also re soldered a larger stranded silicone 510 wore. The problem I had is strictly the 510 not grounding to the case of the mod making resistance way too high and fluctuate. And yes I know the plan was swapping but I made it clear is rather have it fixed and swap back. That's why they are processing through the help desk for more info tracking. If I don't see it I won't be too upset but I did just notice the evolv reference mod I got has a nicked up 510. Prob from removing a bunch. But also the threads are crooked so the attys usually bottom on one side and have a gap on the other. That's my only gripe. Along with it not being black. But hopefully I get mine back. And if it had a better 510 in happy. And the battery wiring itself isn't under rated just the connector.

received my evolv beta mod today. aside from the color i love it so much more. i could care less when i see the hana back i am hoping my hana comes back with the 510 from the reference mod tho. finally my attys screw down all the way. and no more button spin

just received my evolv beta and also sent out my hana today. i must say i almost prefer the evolv in every way. no more button spinning. attys screw down flush. if it was black then id leave the hana in the trash. but besides that its identical minus the huge improvements in craftsmanship. imagine that. the one who makes the chip also makes the better mod. if your gonna copy it and sell it for 200 it better be better than what i got

Probably a bad connection with the 510. Does the resistance on both mods show the same

And I hope your not confusing me with the other person who installed a fdv 510. And yeah my case to board ground is solid with my meter. It's strictly anywhere on the 510 to case or board ground that has huge resistance. So there's gotta be something in the outer 16mm threads. I even scratched at the seam inside the case and the resistance jumps all over. If I had a connection problem with positive I'd be agreeing with you on the weakened spring and heat and whatnot. The case sadly is just negligence and I'll never buy from Hana again

I don't know why there are any hard feelings. I keeps saying o love the 510 and I would rather have this one than a fdv. I don't want an fdv. But I'm saying I'm pissed that I'm having a problem with the perfectly good 510 design due too Hana putting there mods together horribly. And mine is on its way too evolv anyways. I'm only sharing my findings on why my mod was reading resistances al over the place. And I'm hoping the reference mod showing tommorow is better.

So your 510 has a faulty connection to the case? Is that not faulty? [/QUOTE] No. It's the way it was installed. There's something between the case and 510. Be it thread lock or glue. Explain to me why it would be faulty it's a solid piece of metal. If I jump a wire from any metal ground on the 510 to the board ground the problem is fixed. It's the way the 510 is grounded. Which is through itself. Which is a solid piece of metal. Which contacts only the case threads. The only removable or faulty parts would be an issue with a positive connection which isn't the case. It works great. Hana just messed up. Why are you trying to act like I have no idea what I'm doing. I deal with electrical diagnosis every day.

Your 510 might just be faulty or bad soldering. My 510 works great and is very accurate. [/QUOTE] The 510 isn't faulty. I re soldered the pin. It's great. There's nothing that's gonna be faulty about the metal. It's the 510 housing to case connection. That's it.

The problem is the landing pad and outer 510 piece. I know how to take it apart. It most certainly is locked in good and will be mutated removing. But if I could get say a reference mod 510 I could retap or do whatever to get it to work. Hana most certainly either didn't remove the anodizing on the outer 510 threads in the case or the threads are coated with whatever thread lock they used. I agree that I like the 510. Just the ground issue which isn't the 510. It's how the 510 was installed

I work in the auto industry so stuck bolts are no obstacle lol. I just don't want to remove it without a replacement. But yea I think either way it's very poor construction on Hana's part

I know I could retrofit a varitube 510 but I like the Hana and beta style 510 and if I could get one to work perfectly and allow more movement of the 510 pin for longer Atty pins then this mod would be 100 percent worth the money I spent. I can't thread most of my attys down due to the battery but if I can get a decent 510 without going to a standard diy one I'll be a happy guy

John and Brandon I'm hoping you can let me know what to do. I have finally 100 percent figured out my problem with my v200. After fixing the 510 positive wire, installing bullet connectors for my battery, and replacing a screen my Hana was acting up with .04 builds reading at .243 ohm and always fluctuating. I eventually came t the conclusion that it is indeed the 510 to case ground like my multimeter confirmed. I clamped a piece of silicone 16 gauge wire between my Atty and the 510 connector. Then I touched the other end to board ground while having atomizer analyzer open. And what do u know the fluctuating .24 ish reading went to a rock solid .042. Question is idk how to remove this 510. I've tried with a massive flat head but idk. And I don't think I can solder to it. So anyways I'm assuming you would be able to fix it or does Hana have too. I know my beta mod is on the way so whatever works will work for me. If the 510 from the beta mod can somehow be fitted to the Hana that would be nice. I mean I guess I just need to get it out and most likely clean the threads. But if I can id rather go to a different 510 option. Especially since the Hana has no movement. It would be awesome if the beta mods 510 was compatible. So anyone else experiencing an issue like this with unsteady resistance. Probably is a 510 ground. I wish I could take the 510 out cause I bet there's anodizing on the threads. If so that's very poor manufacturing. I'm really regretting this 200 dollar "high end" mod lol. First time I spent this much on something I didn't make figuring hey I always wanted a Hana. But NOPE

I've narrowed my Hana v200 problem down to exclusively being an issue with 510 grounding. My 510 threads to board ground was .20 ohm. While my case to board ground was .00 ohm. Something with the 510 to case is wrong. Possibly anodizing still on the threads of the case