TrexWyo

Just made an interesting build, A tiger coil made from 28 gauge Ni200 with .8x.1 Kanthal ribbon wire. Used the tcr calculations from steam engine for parallel mixed wire since it doesn't allow for twisted mixed wire. The results were a 0.07 ohm coil consisting of 12 wraps around a 2.5mm arbor for a dual vertical coils in a Steam crave aromamizer rdta. temperature set for 440 F very favorable dense warm vape. In my opinion, anything twisted results in a better more favorable vape than you can get with a single wire. Granted not quite as good as a clapton coil build but close

Doesn't sound much like a deal, trading a $160 plus device to a 50 or a 80 dollar device unless he is throwing in several sets of batteries. My self if it was still under warranty I'd have him get Hcigar replaced with a new dna board or device. You could also buy a replacement dna board and have that installed or perhaps even evolv will replace the board? of the two options you're offered, I prefer the ergonomics of the Rueleaux rx200 better than the sig because the SiG is comfortable to hold in the right hand only. It also supports NI, TI only no SS like the Rueleaux RX200 is supposed to handle. EDIT Didn't notice at first that the deal included a charger that makes it a little better

Very strange I duplicated your setup on a 5 second wide window and my results look normal. On your graph I noticed that your cell voltages differ by 0.9 volts and your total pack voltage is unstable. I'm wondering if you have wiring problems from your battery to the board? Especially the way your pack voltage drops out like it does??? Perhaps try a USB recovery charge from the advanced tab in the diagnostic section of the monitor?

I had a similar problem after charging Reuleaux batteries externally. Showing imbalanced batteries and appearing like a cell not making firm contact in the tray. What got me back to full operation was a Hard Reboot from the EScribe tools menu. After doing the reboot all is well again

I've been using a lot of Nickel Free grade 430 Stainless steel with good results. /topic/66385-topic/?do=findComment&comment=896823

Here is that build above. not quite the flavor production as the 2 wire twisted with two twisted wires I was using before though. Close though. More wattage might help that though.

This build is going to be hard to beat for Unkamen's Nickel Free 28 gauge SS 430 that results in a stable temperature. It is 16 wraps of twisted annealed 28 gauge around 3mm arbor at about a 1.5 pitch. Came in at .445 cold ohms. Twist pitch ended up at 1.5mm A lot looser than I wanted but that is where the ware broke. When I replace this coil I'll Anneal the wire before twisting instead of after to see if that gives me a tighter pitch which should increase the cold resistance a little more. The graph below is about a 5 second vape in a 10 second window. Set for 90 watts, 1 second 150 watt preheat. Vertical coil on a Steamcrave Aromamizer. Going to kill a battery quick though.

Had the same problem myself, batteries were making good contact but still wasn't showing full charge even though the cell voltages were good. A hard reboot from the tools menu tab worked for me.

I almost hate to show a picture. It is a Very Ugly Coil but has lots of mass and surface area and vapes well. There isn't a lot of room under the bottom end of the coil. Maybe 3/16". Actually Looks more difficult than it is to wick a set of verticals. With a little practice, less than a minute to wick. Wicking requires long strand cotton. I use Japanese cotton. Regular organic cotton from a cotton ball doesn't work very well. Feed cotton into the top until it sticks out from the bottom a bit. Capture the tip of the wick with a needle point and fish it out to the side until you can grab it with finger tips or tweezers. With needle point press down on the cotton into the well while pulling out the tail. A two hand operation. Loosely fill the juice well with cotton and trim the top almost flush just a little above the top of the coil

My Results. I ran this test twice a few days apart from about 25% battery remaining, The first time I ran it I left the Reuleaux setting flat, up right on the desk (bottom air holes blocked) and the second time I ran it I propped the mod front up on my mouse pad so airflow could enter the bottom air holes. I didn't do a screen capture of the first run however charge temperature rise and Degrees F/A were significantly higher. Attached below is a screen print of my second run. I've always believed "Cooler is Better" when it involves electrical components so I now charge with the mod vertical and the bottom airflow holes exposed. I'm betting the differences we are seeing between each other is caused by a combination of different initial ambient room temperature, battery temperature and the board temperature. Mine was still hot from vaping few minutes previously. Also how well the dna board transfers heat to the metal of the case to dissipate. My actual room temperature for both runs was a little under 70F. I wonder if a little thermal compound between the board mount pads and the case or enlarged airflow holes would help? I might try that someday <grin> I'm also interested in what my results would be in I set the mod inverted (upside down) with the atty removed so air could enter the side air holes and exit out the bottom air holes facing up? Plan on trying that soon myself. What I think I want to see is a low Case USB Temperature Rise and a low F/A value. Does anyone know what the heating and cooling constants represent?

I had the same issue with Wismec's settings. For some reason it was causing an error with the "cold ohms" that resulted in a vape that was poorer than poor. What I did was install the latest Evolv firmware and used Wismec''s thermal settings until I had a chance to run my own thermal case analysis. It has been working great since. Your Crown tank resulting in a bad cold ohms is more likely caused by the Crown Atty static resistance, A incorrect "mod resistance" setting under the Mod Tab, or Unstable or erratic resistance in your coil build contacts. Attached is my current Mod settings.

I am getting what I call very acceptable results with nickel free stainless, Grade 430. It has a higher TCR then grades 304,316 or 317. My build is dual vertical coils of 6 wraps of twisted/twisted 28 gauge around 2mm arbor. I do this by twisting 2 wires tight times two and then twist two twisted strands together at double the twist pitch. This results in a coil that delivers Clapton like flavor and clouds that is far easier to make. I use a modified SteamCrave Aromamizer RDTA, Velocity deck, that has LOTS of airflow. Flavor and clouds are great.

I'm using a set of "subohmcell" batteries that are listed as 2800 mah. However Kidneypuncher.com web site tested a set of these and found they perform identical to 25R's in capacity. Whatever the subohmcell is it's definitely a rewrapped battery of some type. Using the settings from the watthour it calculator they are 31.08 wh. This is what I entered, right or wrong. Jumping ahead from a full charge to empty I'm getting 410 puffs with ending cell voltage about 3.25 volts when the battery meter shows empty and remaining watt hours shown on the monitor was showing about 1/3 of 1 watt hour left. So should you set yours to 2500 or 2800? Good question, I'd try 2500 if I were you and see if your battery meter is accurate. If not, make an adjustment or run battery analyzer.