Podunk Steam

Consider this an opinion of an arm chair engineer which it really is. I don't consider the construction the DX 200 to be stable for the long haul, it's not bad or at least mine isn't. Expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals along with galvanic response taken into account, yes, I personally say go for the 510 swap but find yourself a copper center pin that's silver, gold or rhodium plated would likely be the best direction to take. Hotcig didn't leave much room for a locking nut so thread tapping of the 510s hole and some creative work with a locking nut and better terminal ring than most 510s come with would be suggested and a little Nolox would be a good idea too. Removal of any coatings where the terminal ring would make contact would be suggested as well. The harder you push the device the more important I would consider the 510 swap to be.

Way more better start on this one! Should suffice as long as I don't botch the hand work on the ends.

Maybe the rumor I heard of a serviceable 18650 pack was just smoke some vaper was blowing than.

Wow! I just considered the updated of the firmware as something that should be done first thing, than I took it apart to get a good look at the inside before I put power to it. I've ended up with enough BS Chinese product it's just the way I do things. Well and my close association with Murphy just causes me to be a bit skeptical of other peoples work. It's screwed the Chinese manufacturers are causing negative interests for the DNA 200, it's an awesome product. Edit: If they don't come out with battery packs at a reasonable price pretty soon mine's getting hacked.

I'm no battery head myself and that's the reason I started this thread. It seemed to make sense to me that the 30Qs would be a favored choice because of the slightly higher voltage than the HG2s. The head space I mention was an off thought thinking about amperage draw of the 200 watts not 133. Sounds like your 25s mighy be middle aged or someone's rewraps. I just had some delivered and they do better than my new MXJOs that are second shelf HE2s to the best of my knowledge. Something like 25Rs I see as a bit overkill in the 133 configuration considering they should be capable of nearly twice the amperage draw of the 200 watt configuration.

Yeah, I've never heard of those and the labeled specs likely would have been something I would just ignored. Sad the way higher end names or statements of better quality can often be nothing but a farsity. Just had a customs pay extra for a higher resolution 3D print. It sounds as though the print company changed the orientation of the print to lower the prints production time and totally jacked up my customers print. Today's market place can be frustrating as hell especially when you have third party software and every other lame cop out to fall back to gain a flipping profit. No graphs or anything on the batteries you've mentioned though I'd imagine?

Nothing?

I'm not sure I can agree with that, a manufacturer should be well verse on the products they utilize in the construction of a product they offer to the open market.

Thanks

I never did find anything about cycles of use for the JSTs. Being as prominent as they are with the RC crowd you'd think the information would be easier to find. I may have been using bad verbiage with my searches as well. The supplied charger with the Hotcig has a class2 transformer rated at 800ma so my phone charger at 1 amp is a little better suited anyway.

Holy beat the heck out of the brass Batman! QF, I implied some pretty bad things too quickly to, I'm just going to stick with Howie, thanks! Turns out it wasn't all me, my stamps are milled just the slightest bit crooked. The 3s on the bottom had the stamps oriented as straight as anyone could get them and the 3s still tilt a little. They'll be the ones I'll use though. Between not having yet acquired the taste for milling coolant on my fritos and my calipers trying to lie to me I think it's best I pack it in for the evening. Edit: Crooked thing's going to haunt me if don't make a better run at it. Finally came to terms with myself on the exterior, I'm going Captain America style. Nik nik nik!

I guess I'll get the buttons started and think about it for a while. 3s might be a little crooked though. Looks good enough from my house.

I may be misunderstanding this as some may think this is my build or design which it isn't. With that cleared from my head I'm questioning the rubberized finishes all together anymore. I've noticed two very minor dings already that are showing aluminum. It's a thin rubberized finish. The fire button I can live with and if the rubberized coating goes South this is a device I can refinish, fire button may get hacked if it goes that direction. Wouldn't hurt me any to get rid of the Hotcig logo on the back! I don't know what the duty cycle is on a JST, time for some Googlage I guess. The USB should be good for 10,000 cycles from what I've read.

LMAO! The same thought had crossed my mind. I guess this one just picked up another name "Howie "Beta" 133". Edit: Howie would be a little more fitting at 155 watts but I've used the term hunting with a Howitzer often enough it's just getting sticky.

There's been a number of new drippers and tanks hitting the market that would make use of the bottom air flow although not dependent they would benefit from them. Thinking about it a few tanks would be dependent, flavor chaser tanks I can't recall the names of.

Oh yeah, very true. I do see aesthetics lost to redundancy as the four holes aren't really needed, the air channels would work the same for tightening the 510 with the right tool, it's just the 4 holes, I guess it's a personal thing. I make/modify some pretty good 510s myself although this could be considered bias. LOL! I type like I've been drinking! LOL!

Color me jealous, that early 510 was done on equipment with a bit tighter tolerance than I can pull off. My rotary table and independent 4 jaw chuck system has a trail be fire test coming up soon, this may not go well.

If you're worried about the thickness of the coating a true hot bluing may look nice or parkerizing would be a means of a thin coating as well. The parkerizing is similar to anodizing and is used on firearms, one of the more durable firearms finishes in my opinion. Both process through a professional application involve some tooling and chemicals.

Scoopy let the cat out of the bag? 3D printed? The files aren't all that hard to put into a 3D print friendly format, I have unaltered untested print files on Sculpteos.

Okay I'll bite, you made the different looking 510 connector on the one? I like the engineering of the Evolv 510 connectors, I just can't over the look though.

Me, myself and I just can't come to terms on a portion of the build so I thought I might ask for opinions. I'm going to powder coat the stripes outside the 1 in a fade from blue at the bottom to red at the top and the 1 will be powder coated white. The other areas are where I'm struggling with, black powder coating would make for a great contrast and bring out the red white and blue although it would involve a four bake process with the powder coating that stresses me a little. The off side is a potential finger print magnet with the powder I have. Raw polished aluminum with an automotive epoxy based clear coat sounds nice too although the clear over the powder coat seems a bit off. Again another finger print magnet but maybe not as bad as the black. There has also been the thought of jeweling these areas like is often done on the exposed areas of rifle bolts. This might be a bit gaudy but I do like the way it refracts light which could be lost with a clear coat. May be less likely to show finger prints and sticky fingered women could be a potential issue.

Mind me asking what's up with the zip tie?

A Fullymax rewrap from what I understand but this is hear say. I looked at the fire button similar at first but it doesn't really bother me now.

Wimpy say hello to Beefy, Beefy say goodbye to Wimpy. Mmmmm Beefy! This worked out well, the copper sleeve will end up press fitting right onto the base of the 510 connector. All milled to spec and just about ready to go, this part serves a few purposes so it isn't quite finished yet. Good ole 3/4" copper water pipe.

Oh, my bad, I thought you had replaced it.