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Podunk Steam

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Posts posted by Podunk Steam

  1. On 11/1/2018 at 1:15 AM, Piyush said:

    That's not nice. There should be an option to lock all buttons except the fire button to avoid changing any settings by mistake...

    J.P.

    I have been inadvertently changing settings and just found your post searching for a means to lock out the function buttons while still retaining the use of the fire button. No luck so far. 

    Edit: My post would be in reference to the 75C.

  2. I eyeballed this kit for a modification for a while and ended up buying one of the mods first. I have a kit on the way now for the planned modifications.

    The XPV 75C is a well built mod and shouldn't be beyond most builders abilities, actually I'd consider it a good place for a builder to start from just to have something that will last IMHO. The kit's reasonably priced, quality materials are supplied and few tools are needed.

    This is no Chinese zinc alloy mod and it is priced competitively with quite a few not built at nearly the same quality. 

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  3. That's a lot of cranking on a mill AMDtrucking!  Or do you have auto feed?  DRO? 

    I just used an end mill to cut through an inch and a half thick 4 inch wide billet of 7075-T651, it got me thinking about this thread.  I'm heading for the table saw next time! 

    Working in a machine shop spoiled me!  

  4. The year hasn't even come close to an end and the QP Designs Juggerknot mini has my vote for best top air flow single coil RTA of the year.

    Flawless performance on both TC and Replay.

    I've been using Vandy Vapes 316L MTL wire.

    It's best to tension wrap this wire by anchoring one and pulling plenty of tension while rolling your coil wrapping jig toward the anchored end of the wire.

    4mm I.D., 5 spaced wraps wicked with Puffs pads cut to 12 to 13mm, skinned, fluffed and folded in the liquid channels, no comb out needed, just enough to peak out from the top of the side liquid inlets. Easy to build on and filling is a breeze with an OBS Engine styled fill port. 

    If only I could find the right drip tip for me!

    I've ordered a second as the second production run will be shipping soon.

    Specs:

    24mm Diameter
    Single coil
    No leaking
    Postless deck
    Pull up top fill
    Side installed screws (No coil twisting)
    Adjustable Top airflow
    Airflow stopper (No free spinning)
    New deck design (More airflow + Flavor)
    Triple channeled airflow to coils
    Airflow to coils (side,under,top)
    Signature 810 drip tip (Random color top)
    Glass 4.5ml bubble tank
    Glass 2ml tank (/Europe/TPD laws)
    Vape band with logo
    Flat head screws
    Hex grub screws
    Black O rings
    Accessory bag
    serial number
    Signature 810 drip tip(Removable bottom ring)

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  5. The stresses imparted into the metals during manufacturing and coil building can cause them to move after being heated, so yes there is potential for hot spots after lightly dry burning contact coils. I gave up contact coils with TC circuits long ago, good to hear you're on the right track now.

  6. Have you tried replay mode?

    Stainless does what I call "settling in" even after the coils are lightly dry burned. The reason I asked about the replay mode is that the 75C will accommodate a stabilized vape even through this "settling in" process I've mentioned. The trick is to not take the mod out of replay once initially set, another lesson learned the hard way.  (:

  7. Over the course of a week or two I've been putting a DNA 60 into a Hana's V4 when I've had the time to tinker and I seem to have mounted the board up side down as the display is oriented the wrong way, it's showing the connection point to the glass through the mods window.

    To avoid lengthening the atomizer load wires and battery wires I'd much rather find a display with a much longer ribbon if possible. Would such a beast exist? 

     

    This has already turned into an experience, the plastic clip to release the battery door was so well seated onto the brass part that makes electrical contact at the battery's negative its stem broke so I've milled a duplicate from brass. 

    The screws were too short that came with the Cisco 510, this I found after turning a little height off the deck in order to have atomizers seat flat on top of the mod. And I didn't have a center drill so the intended 2.5mm threaded holes for the mounting of the 510 didn't align correctly so they got bored and the brass retention ring was used. 

     

    My phone is not allowing me to upload pics to my picture host or I'd include some pictures. 

     

    Any help with a long ribbon display would be much appreciated! 

  8. I found I made a mistake, there was a recess deeper in the plastic part for the circuit board although the board didn't want to be fitted into it.  A cheesy screw snapped off in one of the zinc alloy posts so before I waste too much time with this I'm going to a Hanas V4 with the trap door, tapped screws in Cisco 510, housing the 60 and potentially a 20650 battery. 

  9. 16 minutes ago, Jonski said:

    Am I wrong to assume that I would be able to add the 'Replay' function, when it is released, to the theme I am already using by way of the Theme Designer ?

    I believe retird gave the best explanation I've seen a few posted back. It looks as though a profile is designated to the replay feature and I believe he also mentioned replay through the Theme Designer. 

     

    • Like 1
  10. 1 hour ago, AMDtrucking said:

    Or why spend money on the ones they have already sold, there is no profit in that. Man, I hope I'm wrong. Mean while, I'm playing with Replay (not upon intended) for about a week now. There was a problem with negative connection to 510 connector, on my Boxer BF DNA250C, I even started a thread HERE, but it is all corrected now. I'm loving it! It is so easy to use and it works seamlessly so far.

    Nah, seriously doubt it would have been mentioned the numerous times without intent. Evolv isn't China based. ;0)

    • Like 1
  11. I was lead to believe this would be a straight forward swap from the garbage 80 watt board the mod came with that wouldn't even adjust wattage in TC mods, not so much really.

    I complicated the swap a little by 86ing the Vape Cige 510 that looked pretty questionable, may hear of them failing up in here soon. 24mm is just a hair too wide on the sides of the mod so I used a 22mm 510 with a copper center pin. 

    The greater of the challenge is in the actuators for the buttons, in the 80 they protrude on the back side, in the 60 the up and down bar is just about flat while the fire button is recessed on the back side for the micro switches body as well as the stem. Wouldn't be an easy task with rotary tools, files and such! 

    Circuit board location isn't all that easy, UV glue can be your friend there, the display does have a good recessed area to seat into where again the UV glue came in handy.

    I wasn't rushing it and spent about 4 hours with the swap. It's a tight little unit now, not a hint of button rattle, USB is seated well and does what is should.

     

    Only a few pics to share, one of the - wire reroute because of the 510s locking nut and the other just showing the exterior.

    wire reroute

    Exterior

     

     

     

     

    • Like 3
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