[Mod Crate 1590A CNC]

I thought I'd share a build option being it just showed up today. The Mod Crate 1590A looks to be a very respectable housing.
I have to acquire another 200 for this build as the one I have is ear marked for a 3D print that should show up tomorrow.

I've contacted Mod Crate and mentioned IGES file availability in this forum so we'll see where that goes. 

So mean while or nice while which ever way you'd prefer to verse it here's a pic.

[Solder type at contact points?]

Cheap spring steel you might as well sign off at 250F.

Springs this small don't have much metal to them so they will heat readily although the carbon content in quality springs is likely higher than cheap spring steel. 

I have seen springs that have lost temper being heated with soldering irons in this same manner and I'm not the first. Granted these I've seen were cheap Chinese springs, it does, has and likely will happen to someone again.

I'm sorry you're mistaken, I'm not the slightest bit hostile or there'd be no question as to my state. I honestly don't consider it good practice to heat springs in the process of soldering. I own it, my opinion, you're welcome to yours as I am mine. Nothing to be hostile about here. 

Salute

[Solder type at contact points?]

I had to go check on this and it all depends on the metallurgy, 1400F sounded very high to me. Cheap spring steel you might as well sign off at 250F.

Most springs temper is lost at 700F or less. Annealing of metals happens at much higher temperatures than Tempering of metals.

[Solder type at contact points?]

I'm referring to the heat on the spring and the diameter of the cups hole being so close to the springs diameter.

[Solder type at contact points?]

Sorry I don't like it.

[Solder type at contact points?]

 

Although I don't remember the connector manufacturer this is 14 gauge high strand count silicone coated wire. A bit of a trick to get this far with it. I pulled the insulation back on the wire, cut the wire, slid the insulation over the end of the wire, cut the insulation at an angle, fed the insulation through the cup and than the spring.

[Solder type at contact points?]

So you're saying the spring will fit over the insulation of a 12 gauge wire?

[Solder type at contact points?]

So you heat synced the wire in order to not over heat the spring?

[Solder type at contact points?]

Sounds as though not heating the spring might be a trick

[Solder type at contact points?]

Besides milling a custom 510 pin the 12 gauge looks like a real trick to me, a little easier if real copper wire could be found anymore.

[Solder type at contact points?]

Sounds pretty redundant when you say it like that. I'll go work on my tooth pick some more I guess.

[Solder type at contact points?]

Soldering heat syncs are a good thing, a little fiberglass tape on the other side of the board helps to not transfer the heat through the sync too. 

[Solder type at contact points?]

This has been my flavor for a while now although the price has probably gone up a fair margin. Anything with a higher silver content would have me fearing overheating components. Yeah there'd likely be little difference in conductivity the way I try to solder anyway.  I try and use alligator or some form of pressurizing clips to hold wires in place while soldering to get as substantial a mechanical bond as possible while soldering, splaying wires if possible..... 
 

[Solder type at contact points?]

My first build is still in the postponed stages although looking at the board again I was wondering what the make up of the solder would be on the board at the contact points?
I'm just a fans of the silver bearing solder is the reason I ask. I've been lead to believe that silver bearing solder can lend up to 15% more conductivity than other compositions of solders.  

Yeah I could over engineer a tooth pick. 

[2 wierd issues]

Maybe moisture in the 510? 

[unconventional balance wiring question]

I think you need some more stuff in that box, like AIR! That is tight in there! Then it looked like the poor tube mods guts were strung out all over the place, seriously taxing my emotions I tell you!
Glad to see it worked out for you!

[IS THIS TRUE EVOLV ?]

Should there be concern with battery swelling the way they crammed the battery in there? I'm with the understanding these Lipos can swell to + 15% resting size.

Edit: If you have the tools a threaded bushing could be a reasonable fix for the 510, even a good press fit with the anodizing removed should fly.

[Popped fuse in chip]

Pretty sure the fuse type is on page 10 of the manual, if memory serves me anyway. 

[unconventional balance wiring question]

Yeah you're best testing. I don't know what kinda of induction that low a volt and current would create in a loop but I doubt it would be significant.
Edit: Too many variables to play with, different wire insulation, shielded, non-shielded wires... That could be a thought too, use some Belden shielded or similar. 

[unconventional balance wiring question]

Couldn't you treat it like an AC parallel feeder circuit and even up the wires lengths?

[Let's see your 200's!]

Pretty cool lookin chimp 

[Research Ecigarette (Where I disappeared to)]

Just tell Trump I voted for him when he wins. 

Seriously, thank you for the efforts made for all of us.

[Let's see your 200's!]

Hi Podunk Steam.
My one is the aluminium one (I wish the wooden one was mine too lol). It's got a 3s 1000 mah nano tech battery. I haven't run it down completely but it should take 3 hrs to fully charge it from empty, charging at 1amp.

I'm using 3 600mah cells, it charges pretty quick, under 2 hours, haven't really timed it to know exactly but it's not bad really. the 600mah is a bit light, I'd say I get about as much battery life as I would get on an older 18650, back when 1,600-1,800 was the best you would get out of high drain cells, not as good as a current good single 18650 like a sammy 25r, but really not so bad considering how tiny they are. this 600mah T pack is the key to how I got this thing so tiny though...

Very much appreciated, thank you!
I recently got ahold of an Istick 40TC and charging's making me crazy is where my question was based from. It's been long enough since I used eGos I'd forgotten one of my own prerequisites. The power delivery I very much enjoy but the charging has me sending it off to my partner, not before I get measurements off it for a little tweaking though. 

[Let's see your 200's!]

 
Very Nice!  
 
My flavor!
Battery mah for each if you wouldn't mind and charging time by way of USB? I'm still waiting on my 3D print only to find I should have had it done through a less expensive print company, Sculpteo's new to me. 

[Suggestion to add 18650's to battery type selection list]

Here you go. 3 x 18650 is possible as well.