Jalcide

Huh? I haven't even mentioned the tanks I own. They are not introductory level. I don't understand your argumentative tone, but it's the internet, something must have been lost in the text-lation. I appreciate your attempt to help me with my vaping experience, but I assure you all is well here. I shall gracefully bow out. You've won this non-debate, debate. Long live the DNA200 and DNA40, both are great. Cheers.

I'm not quite sure what you're saying, but for me TC isn't about delivering a consistent, target temperature, it's about delivering a consistent target mean-wattage. I've modified my screen to show mean-wattage and dial in the temp until it's hitting the coil the way I know it should, and where I like the vape. So, basically, there is little difference in my build between kanthal at, say, 18 watts power mode and 18 mean-watts with ni200 in the same tank. The strategy is great, the vape is great. What this thread is about, is something different. It's about the ramp-up both in TC and power mode, with the DNA200 vs a DNA40, all other things being equal. With the DNA40 the ramp up is smooth, gentle and very pleasant. The DNA200 ramp up seem more aggressive to me, all other things (including e-liquid) being equal.

Yes, you pretty much described the exact build I've landed on, too, after much experimentation. I do a 9 wrap, spaced, 28 gauge, ni200 on a 2mm bit. It usually comes out to 0.10, or 0.11 ohms, which gives me compatibility with my DNA40 mods. Depending on juice, it's usually anywhere from 16 to 20 watts that end up hitting the coil (after TC does its thing); loose (but not too airy) draw. I can also go crazy and push that build to the 20 to 28 watts range, if I'm in a rebellious mood.

(Yeah, his was an Intel-based one.) If you want to run EScribe, yes, I'd return it. There may be a way to shoehorn the KVM virtual machine on an ARM chromebook, but it would probably require every last nerve and stand of hair from a seasoned Linux nerd; and that's without even getting the USB to work. For the sub 200.00, 150 bucks range, I'd go with a small Windows 10 tablet (with a USB port). I'd look at one of the Chinese brands on Gearbest. Amazing bang for your buck. I think places like Best Buy would have some small, Windows 8.1 tablets on clearance for under a hundred bucks, too.

An ARM-based Chromebook, or an Intel x86-based Chromebook? I'll hazard a guess the one successfully running EScribe was an x86 Chromebook running VirtualBox (VB won't run on ARM).

Crazy idea, if you can afford it: double down, get two. You obviously wanted the VT200 before the SHTF, so get two of them. One is bound to work. If the other fails, you RMA it until it works, and you still have one to vape on. End of the day, you now have failure-proofed yourself should this ever happen again (you'll have one to use, while one is being fixed). And, you now have two of the thing you wanted most. Finally, in the future, if the units ever become discontinued and/or not available because HCigar disappears, FDA deeming regulations, etc., you'll have two of the same device to swap parts between to help get through the vapocalypse.

Genius. I'm absolutely going to try this. Thanks for this!

My 28 gauge UD 316L SS arrived and there is no significant difference in behavior (good, bad, indifferent) compared to the 316 (non-L) unbranded fasttech wire I had before. I'm using the default SE profile at the moment. Not a very steady vape if I set the wattage higher than needed. My workaround is to set the wattage about 1 watt above my desired level and bump the temp up until it nearly matches it, but still offers some TC. Doing this, everything smoothes out on the graph (and vape). I may as well just run in power mode, but this at least allows me to control the pre-heat punch. Ni200 on the same atty works perfectly even when the wattage is far above where I vape via TC.

By "boost," I'll assume you mean pre-heat punch control (soft to hard) + pre-heat duration + pre-heat max wattage value... No. It's only available when using TC.

I'm pretty sure step-down, boost-conversion and power regulation, in general, fully control, and with great precision, what is delivered to the coil (and when) on these modern devices. Right? For example, when the battery's voltage drops over its discharge, the DNA will ask for more amps to maintain the same wattage, etc. Also, the fact there is even a preheat function (for TC) with soft-to-hard parameters, illustrates how the DNA is carefully controlling the final, target wattage that hits the coil (after all is said and done). The only time the battery would matter is if it can't deliver the raw amps (or voltage) the DNA would ask for, but that's not the case here. I'm wanting the DNA to ask for less power, not more.

Agreed. Same build / tank removed from my DNA 200, to a DNA 40 (same wattage) is giving a smoother, less aggressive ramp up; delicious flavors ensue. 510 connection is new, clean and solid on both, so it's not that. Batteries full on both. I know it's different because there is less crackly, mouth-burning sputtering on the DNA 40. It's like butter. The difference is subtle, but I have a sensitive roof of my mouth that gets burned and vaped-out easily -- like if you drank hot tea a little too fast and end up feeling it all day and even the next day. One watt can make the difference. (Which is why I also want temp control that allows 1 degree adjustment.)

What I really want is a full-on easing equation designer, for wattage mode, to precisely control the ramp-up of the vape. Something like this, but for an Escribe profile: http://cubic-bezier.com One can dream. (It would be easy to implement, though.) In fact, make it full ADSR envelope (Attack, Decay, Sustain, Release). Done.

I tried to see if setting to temp control using Kanthal would at least allow me to manipulate the preheat functions in interesting ways. There may be possibilities there. I was getting mixed results. Will have to revisit this. I guess that's another feature request: Allow control of preheat power, punch and duration for wattage mode.

Ah! Of course you guys are right. I know this; had a brain lapse. I'm still getting a different vape between the two. DNA 200 is punchier. A bit too punchy for my style. Hmmm, I've got a crazy idea to try...will report back...

I switched back to kanthal / wattage mode for a bit, and it was a refreshing change. 18 watts in in a Silo Beast with a 25 gauge kanthal 8 wrap, horizontal spaced coil around a 2.1mm bit in an atlantis compatible RBA coil. I then put the same atty, mid-tank, on a DNA 40 mod (latest "large screen" chip revision) and I swear it was doing something "different I liked" (not very scientific). Notice I didn't say, "better." Can anyone from Evolv confirm what settings on a DNA 200 (preheat, hardness, etc.) will most closely match the DNA 40? Or, is it too apples to oranges? Too many algorithm changes? Does anyone else notice anything different in wattage mode between default DNA 200 settings and the DNA 40?

Regarding 430 SS: Does anyone know if WireAndStuff ships to the US? There's nothing about it on their site. I emailed them and will share once I hear back (unless someone beats me to the answer). Update: They answered. They do ship to the United States and recommend choosing a shipping method with tracking.

It could be called something like "Pessimistic Mode," "Hybrid Mode," "Legacy Atomizer mode," "Wattage Fallback Mode," or, "Imperfect / Cheap Atomizer Mode," etc. Actually, maybe "Wattage Protection" is what it really is. Nutshell: It would lock to a user-set mean-wattage and only use TC for gentle steering. It would not go above or below a user-set min/max value. It would have a recovery feature that would recalibrate itself based on the assumption something less-than-ideal happened to the connectivity. Maybe someday TC will eventually compel atomizer designers to make attys that work flawlessly with TC; first time, every time, all other things being equal; Ultra Quality Control and designs to ensure 510 pins don't lose connectivity, push the 510 down too far, or not far enough, gold or silver plating in all the right spots, material choices throughout, screws and solder points, etc. Since that day has not arrived, we all have a lot of atty and wire combos that work well with TC, for a while, and then go haywire mid-tank. Vape gets too hot, or weak when: Juice gets lower, or is topped off; atty sits for a while, is moved to a different room or is chain vaped; airflow adjustment bumps atty connection a nanometer; heat expansion and contraction moves a less than ideal 510 pin a micrometer looser, etc. Rather than having this thread devolve into another "tips and tricks" digest about how to clean contacts, use ideal atomizers with near perfect stability, etc. I'd like to propose a possible solution, a feature, that would solve about 95% of real-world issues with the current generation of less-than-perfect atomizers. In almost all these "what just happened?!" situations a brute force fix, at least in my experience, is to simply turn off TC and set the wattage where I know it should be. In fact, I've never had this not work. Whatever connectivity contact points or thermodynamic states went pear-shaped, it didn't go so badly that pushing a last-known-good wattage at the coil wouldn't return an acceptable vape. So, here's how the automated version might work: Three settings for the mode. The user would set a mean-wattage to a value known to give the best overall vape for the build, a max wattage upper range limit and a min wattage limit. Maybe those value would be expressed as a wattage delta (up and down) from the mean-wattage the user set. It would not be about dry-hit protection. The user would be responsible for keeping juice in the tank, while in this mode. The chip would only use TC to "steer" within the range and would smooth out the vape more than other modes do. If the TC calculation wanted to hit a wattage lower or higher than the min/max wattage range limits, it wouldn't. When the chip encounters this "failure" -- that it gracefully issues the fallback wattage for -- more than three times, it assumes something has changed with the state of the build and recalibrates based on the assumption that the fallback wattage the user set is still delivering a good vape. Basically, it locks to the wattage, first, and shifts its understanding of the the universe around it. The chip knows a heck of a lot. I'm sure something more intelligent than: "Oh, you've been vaping at around 20 mean-watts for 10 minutes and seem to be happy, but guess what, something changed somewhere by .00000002, so I guess you must want a 130 watt vape now (or a 2 watt vape). Here you go...!" No, no I do not. I want around 20 mean-watts, until I say otherwise. You figure it out, DNA chip.

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I make exotic builds, but keep coming back to a 28 gauge, single, spaced, coil (all wire types, but Ni200, SS316, Titanium G1 via TC at the moment) around a 2 to 3mm rod. I just get better flavor from 28 awg and lower watts. I also swear by spaced vs. contact coils for flavor, even for non-TC coils.

Thanks, guys. Yup, doing all that. But no issues here, I was just providing a hypothetical case to explain why maybe the refinement could, in certain edge cases, round the resistance shown on the mod up to the nearest 10th, compared to a mod without refinement. My EFusion DNA 200 + Rocket R CloudDeck genny + 200 SS mesh with Ni200 is the best vape I've ever had. The TC works so well, I can have the wattage set to 200 and not worry about a single dry hit; flavor is dialed in by degrees F, alone. Even looking at the graph, it's almost a perfectly flat line when it reaches the desired temp. Pretty amazing.

I suspect all that subtlety happens within that 3rd, 1000th decimal place? If so, in my example, if my cold reading were 0.114, and thus maybe rounded down on less sophisticated boards, maybe the DNA's refinement pushes it just enough to get a "round up" for the display. *shrug*

I just discovered something. I think the DNA 200 shows something other (higher) than cold ohms. Other mods may be showing true cold ohms. For example, right now I have a genesis atomizer running nickel with a displayed reading of 0.12 ohms on the mod, itself. If I run the Atomizer Analyzer it shows cold ohms at 0.116. So, it knows the build is lower, but is choosing to show a higher number. The Nominal Ohms read at .129. Raw ohms (being heated slightly by the readings) shows 1.37. My guess is that the DNA chip is compensating and giving a more real-world "cold" reading that is somewhere between the real cold reading and a resting nominal reading (or something similar). Or maybe it's just rounding it up because of the constraints of the display's decimals (*blush*). That's probably it. Never mind. I'm an idiot.

Use the Atomizer Analyzer and twist the atty to see if it fluctuates. You may be able to find a sweet spot and observe the lower value you're seeing on other mods. Also, in addition to cleaning contacts with a solvent, a small, micro fiberglass "scratch pen" can work wonders on copper and brass contacts. Just be sure to wash out the tiny fiberglass remains anywhere there is juice or air intakes. The scratch pen has brought several attys back to life, for TC. As to why the DNA readings you're getting are consistently higher, and not lower, just make sure your observations are more than would be expected from a coin toss.

Is the charge indicator always showing when this happens? Just trying to rule out poor electronic connectivity. If it is showing, it's unlikely to be that.

Yes, I'd like this too. Maybe via a press and hold, or something. Or, I'd settle for the ability to have the 3 customizable fields be something different for each profile (if desired).