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Dejay

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Everything posted by Dejay

  1. Since temperature sensing is broken after each battery change and it can even lead to lightly burning your lips (did a few times until I learned) I would consider it a bug, or at least a usability bug when you consider the lock ohms workaround. For the best solution you could ask how often per week do you people swap the battery on average, how often per week do they chance atomizers, and how often each week do they do both at the same time. I'd argue that people swap atomizers rarely and if they do they swap them when the juice is empty not the battery, so it rarely coincides. Just ask only if the ohm reading is different on startup. Make it an option for different DNA mods that are used differently in regard to batteries. I think the real reason it hasn't been considered important is that a) most DNA use only USB charging instead of swapping batteries and b) turning it off and on again is a way to reset the device and reread ohm. But the latter is only needed because the DNA lacks a "re-read cold ohms" function.
  2. I recently bought a DNA75 an there is this bug with temperature sensing that is still present since the early days of DNA boards. When you vape and your batteries dies and you replace it, the temperature sensing will be way off. You can compensate by lowering the temperature but it's annoying. The cause for this is that the chip "forgets" the previous cold ohm resistance reading and reads the atomizer automatically as a new coil, so gets a wrong reading. The whole temperature sensing is off until you let it rest for an hour or so. This can be avoided by locking the temperature but it isn't a great solution. The expected behavior would be that after the battery gets replaced it keeps using the same ohm reading or asks "new coil yes/no?". Any chance this will ever get fixed with a firmware update?
  3. Honestly my Griffin on a Triad DNA200 has much bigger fluctuations in normal use. The best addition to EScribe was the ability to change temp on the fly with the +/- buttons.
  4. Wow LeeWB3 that is a cool way to measure resistance. Nice to see people take temp control seriously That "boost" near the end sounds like a creative use of features too. I don't have that problems because I only take short tokes but I just had to say something!
  5. Ah thanks giz_60. Also I think they switched to the term "service pack" instead of "firmware" to combine firmware with minor patches to escribe.
  6. I wish they would add "sustained power" too. So they filter out the power it took to heat up the coil and only show the "flat" part of the graph. That way you could more precisely compare and test your build.
  7. I've tested this again with leaving the resistance lock on for half a day and it worked! My guess is the lock is stored in memory only when it goes to sleep or something. It's weird behaviour but it works better than messing around with USB power or waiting for it to cool off. I'll just leave it locked now. Thanks! @VapinDragon taking only one battery out doesn't work unfortunately, board goes off as soon as you pull one battery.
  8. Thanks. I'll give it another try. Maybe it only works if you set locked ohms in the profile in escribe? In any case I'd still like a firmware update with this functionality.
  9. Thanks, but this doesn't work for me at all - just tested again. Even the ohm locked status gets forgotten when I swap batteries. It's all about how warm the coil still is when putting back the batteries and hitting fire. What does work of course is connecting to USB power while swapping batteries, what I often do. But this is cumbersome and bad for your micro usb connector wear. Ideally I just want to swap batteries and keep vaping right away and not have to wait for resistance refinement.
  10. Please add an option so when you swap dual 18650 batteries the resistance of the coil is still remembered. When my batteries (dual 18650) go south the vape slowly becomes more and more anemic. So you mostly notice it after just having vaped. Then when you swap out your batteries the firmware suddenly pretend to have no memory of your coil resistance and assume the resistance of your still hot coil / atomizer. Which means you have to wait... and wait... and end up with inconsistent vape results. Of course this is not an issue if you only charge through USB. This is rather inconvenient and could easily be avoided by saving the resistance value in the eeprom. Not sure if this has already been suggested. I didn't find anything with a quick search. Thanks!
  11. Holy hell - I totally missed that update for like 3 months!!! I really like this feature. Many thanks to evolv for adding it
  12. Just got the "weak battery" warning at about ~3.3V resting load and ~3V under load. I have cutoff set to 3V. You can see in the graph how the battery sags and then watts get reduced. Nothing really surprising I think.
  13. Leswiss I think the idea of "Temperature = Flavor" and "Wattage = Vapor" is NOT that more is more - but that you control flavour with temperature while you control vapor with wattage. I think the analogy is a bit too simple though. And it happened to be John from evolv who used that analogy ^^ in an early DNA 40 PBusardo interview / video But the two graphs that VapingBad posted show that it could well be a different experience. I think sensory experience is often tied to changes in stimuli a slowly increasing temperature might just feel more powerful to someone who is sensitive enough. So there is no "best practice" - whatever works for you I could also imagine a "reactive temperature mode" similar to stoking a fire with increased air. Basically if you draw slowly the mod reaches temperature with few watts but if you draw harder you need more power but also the mod increases the temperature by a few degrees as well and gives even more power. Similar to how a cigarette glows more intensely when you draw harder on it. You could control it very easily and in an analog way by changing your draw. This is just a crazy idea of course!!! But it might just be a new interesting vaping experience! BTW about your observation about SS temperature coefficient I noticed something similar. After measuring and setting my mod resistance I got ~88W sustained power at 440°F - now I'm getting much less - about 28W sustained @ 440°F! While having the same resistance. Could be lots of different things like maybe contact resistance or a fluke. Or I need to rewick. I use 316L stainless steel.
  14. Like I said I'm no expert but I don't quite understand what your problem is. So I'm just trying to help and am curious: So your problem is that you get the weak battery warning when both batteries show 3.8V? The other four pictures you posted show the cells at different voltages. But that could be explained by your battery voltage being 3.4V without load and it sags down to 2.9V under load (which is normal and near empty) - and that the display is simply not getting updated quickly and you made the snapshot. Either it is delayed or maybe some data transmission error? You could track it much better if you would check the cell voltages to graph and look what happens when firing. And if they are indeed erratic and different from each other. Then it might be a connectivity problem after all. I do have a dual 18650 mod and haven't (yet) experienced any issues except that: 1. the battery meter is not accurate because I assume either my mAh or my battery profile is not correct for my LG HG2 and 2. I get "ohms too high" on a 0.3 ohm SS build at 100W when my voltage gets too low. But both of that is to be expected I guess. Cheers
  15. Is this really an issue or just a wrong setting of the mAh? Doesn't the low battery message just say that your batteries are empty and you just have to enter the correct Wh or battery profile?
  16. I tested my mod resistance with a thick multistrand wire (don't have a nice copper rod). Raw ohms with Stumpy RDA bridged posts: 0.016 ohm Raw ohms with wire pressed inside the 510: 0.007 ohm I set mod resistance to 0.007 ohm and WOW does it make a world of difference!!! Previously I "tempted out" at about 30 watts with 420°F. Now with 420°F it temps out at about 88W ! So I've previously vaped at much lower real temperatures.
  17. You can simply change to Celcius by changing temperature and going down all the way to zero! About the different screens - interesting idea but configuring it per profile would make escribe much more complicated to use. Maybe a better and simpler way would be to just have three more drop down fields in the screen tab for temperature / VW mode (next to the "default" and "charging" fields).
  18. I bet evolv will be more than happy to send you a new screen if you send them a request. Where would the DNA 200 be without steam-engine.org?
  19. Thanks @VapingBad for posting the graphs! And sorry lol but there are some discussions where some people correct other people saying that the DNA only does temperature limiting and not temperature control and that it's totally wrong one way or another. Not trying to start something here but trying to understand! And imho your graph shows that the DNA can do both and that they are different. Those graphs seem to show that the temperature "reacts" to how you vape. So if you draw a bit slower the temp gets hotter and if you draw more forcefully the temp gets lower and you get those bumps in the temp curve. That means it should be a different experience. Maybe the difference between a more "organic" vape (Temperature limiting - vaping on a glowing ember) or vaping more digital (temperature control - vaping on a high tech machine). This might also depend on how homogeneously the atomizer's chimney and drip top you are using is cooling the vapor. PS: Of course I still very much prefer the temperature control approach and would love an option to change temp with + and - buttons directly
  20. This might be a stupid question: Does the case analyser even have any influence on temperature control? Or refinement? (= guessing when the case should be cooled off to room temperature and when to start refinement?)
  21. I'm convinced too that this is a bug. The refinement mod is basically a guess is the board is cooled down by now or not. I use a wooden enclosure now and it seems the atomizer stays warm A LOT longer than with an aluminum enclosure. My atomizer analyser shows very stable connections as well. So IMHO locked ohms should definitely persist not only through sleep but also through battery change. After all I mostly change the batteries after vaping and noticing batteries are low. I want to replace batteries and keep on vaping and not have to wait a long time for my atty to cool off.
  22. I'm no expert but I heard that battery sag is totally normal and that the voltage will recuperate if not under load. So you have to measure the battery voltage under load basically. So sagging from 3.4 to 2.9V doesn't seem strange to me. From my limited understanding it could be 1. Bad battery contacts where voltage is dropped at contact resistance (try cleaning them) 2. Watt hours are not set correctly - the theoretical 22Wh of the LG HG2 is only under ideal circumstances and the real number is lower 3. Discharge curve ignores the watt hours - I'm not sure of the discharge curve is "scaled" with the watt hours you set. Not sure though. You could try and use "total Wh" in escribe
  23. Here is a thread about the first thing you mentioned: /topic/66948-topic/?do=findComment&comment=902286
  24. Right! Batteries in series don't double their mAh's lol. It should be 3 Ah * 7.4 = 22.2 Wh. My bad But a battery profile fo the LG2 would still be nice. I don't think I can just use any atomizer to burn 20 watts for an hour. I guess I could use a long kanthal coil that is outside of the atomizer and connected to some kind of heat sink sitting in water.
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