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Posts posted by Spector NS5 RD
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@iqbalmuttaqien None of the DNA boards can do TC for kanthal or nichrome. Only wattage for those materials. However, you can add a preheat "boost" to non TC materials with the latest international firmware.
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@bootsy Not sure about a UK based seller but Evolv sells the Fullymax 900mah Lipo on their website. Also IMR Batteries sells an Efest version (900mah, similar dimensions). As for the bullet connectors, you'll have to swap them from the old Lipo to the new.
https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna250
https://www.imrbatteries.com/efest-900mah-3s-11-1v-30c-lipo-battery/
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@JCMemphis My best guess is the NTC sensor (board's temp sensor) on the board has failed or has been knocked off, either do to drop or during mod assembly. The mod is cool to the touch? Contact Volcano Ecigs about a return. Evolv does warranty the board itself for 1 year, there is that route as well.
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@67exec The 75, 75C and 60 share the same exact DC DC converter topology. All 3 are in the 85% efficient range. IMO, all 3 boards exhibit about the same thermal characteristics, the DNA 60 suffering the most due to it being physically smaller. I honestly can't say one board, over the other, gets hotter when running it under similar vaping conditions. There is one possible explanation i can think of. If the mod with the 75C board is sinked better to the housing than the mod with the OG 75, then yes you would "feel" the heat more so on the 75C device.
@Nc16703 Like Giz mentioned, I would contact Evolv through their help desk. The board, itself, carries a 1 year warranty.
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What are the ohms reading on the device when you fire it?
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@Doyle4 what happens if you open EScribe's Device Monitor, click the Diagnostics tab, and click "enable USB charging" then click "set USB current" and type in "1" (amp)?
FYI 4.74v on the USB is kinda low for a resting USB voltage. when any of my DNA boards are not drawing current the USB resting voltage is usually 5v- 5.20v. have any other cables to try out?
it is possible, when assembling your mod, you knocked of a resistor or cap related to charging or recognizing USB voltage presence. is it possible to get some high res pics of the board? front and back?
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.004 will do you just fine. you really don't need the tool. that mod is so popular, the average mod res for your mod is around .004
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Does your button resemble this style?
On the DNA 60 (and all other DNA boards), Up and down buttons are "active low" signals (signal pulled down to GND). The fire button is "active high" (signal is pulled up to VCC MAIN (battery voltage)). So when you press the capacitive button the "out" pin needs go high (4.20v). You'll also need to add a .5 -1k ohm pull up resistor, inline, from the sig pin (of touch sensor) to the fire button input pin of the DNA 60 (you want to limit the amount of current going to the MCU).You'll need to configure the jumpers that are on the touch sensor, which ones i'm not sure, for active high output operation You'll have to do the research on that. I don't play around with Arduino stuff.
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@Anusit it appears your lipo is on it's way out or dead. You can try USB Recovery but i'm not sure if it works below 2 volts a cell. Either way, with a lipo that far over-drained it is best to replace it with new.
ONE OPTION>>>>>
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Is the zif socket on the board damaged in any way? Maybe from when the original screen was ripped out? Look for bent or missing pins or a broken / poorly closing latch. Also make sure the screen ribbon is fully inserted into the connector before closing the latch. Maybe try reflashing the firmware as well, couldn’t hurt.
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Hi, @Pjr. Can you post a screenshot of Device Monitor, while firing the device? You're saying there is a noticeable delay from when you press the fire button to when the atty actually fires? As for the screen not updating output voltage, that may be a theme field issue rather than something wrong with the firmware. I will say the fields do not update terribly fast, though should update nonetheless.
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Sorry to hear that @Joelfe1. With freshly charged cells in the mod, what does EScribe's Device Monitor say for cell-1 and cell-2?
Can you post, here, a screenshot of Device Monitor with all of the battery option boxes ticked?
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Is there any chance of returning or exchanging the mod? If not, Evolv does offer a 1 year warranty on the board. You can open a help ticket with Evolv, through the link in my signature, below.
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Have you tried restarting your PC and only opening n the EScribe program? be sure to disconnect any usb hubs as well. Try different USB ports as well. When connecting a device for the first time to a PC, it should see the device and say “installing device driver” (or something like that). What happens if you downgrade the version of EScribe to next version down? Tried a few different usb cables?
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my guess is a bad screen or intermittent screen ribbon-to-board connection. it appears you only have backlight and no pixels turning on. RMA time.
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The DNA 75 needs to see a minimum of 2.5v volts to even power on and to stay powered on. Go below that voltage and the LDO's that power the components on the board (MCU) drop out. I set my cell soft cutoff value to 2.65v on all my DNA 75's. The 75 is a power board when running at it's max 75w's. i'd recommend some Sony VTC5A's or LG HD2C's. I use both cells and both perform well, with minimal voltage drop at 75w's.
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@Dann76 the calculated Wh will always be higher than actual (real world). the reason for that is there is some losses, heat mainly, between the battery and your atty. either number will work, just the actual measured Wh will make your battery meter more accurate. as for the cell soft cutoff, i use 2.65v - 2.85v.
when battery analyzer asks for a resistor, what i use is loops of kanthal in an old velocity RDA clone. 4, 4 inch loops of 22 gauge kanthal. this setup dissipates heat from the test very well. you can also use an atty with no cotton. just know it may get very hot (and heat up the mod as well) depending on what wattage you set the test at. i wouldn't go over 50-60w's with a cotton-less build "resistor". i might even set the mod in front of a fan, while running BA, to keep everything cool.
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is this charging IC "TSOT 23" outline? do you have it mounted on a PCB with enough copper to dissipate the heat (GND plane, decent sized copper traces, thermal pad)? or are you "dead bugging" the IC? being this linear charger is only 150 mA, this charger is meant for very small capacity cells, not the fastest / best for large lipos or 18650's. post a picture of your setup, a good quality photo. the cells you're using as well. (through a private message)
LTC4054>>>
Maximum Junction Temperature .......................... 125°C (max temperature the die can handle before failing from overheating)
Operating Temperature Range (Note 2)....–40°C to 85°C (as long as you're not over 85c, you'll be OK)
if i were you i would look into something else, maybe a different charging IC? I use the TP4056 charging IC. you can even buy complete TP4056 charging PCB's for very cheap.
https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pr
@lengfeng this is a forum for people who have questions about their Evolv products, not for general electronics questions. please private message me your response to this post, if you want to, rather than posting here. i will try and help you that way.
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I don't think the DNA 60 would survive a "boost" feature. The board nearly blows it's guts out trying maintain 60w for more than 5 secs. It's such a tiny board with an inability to expel the heat generated at higher wattages. the heat builds up very quickly, angering the 0201 sized smd ntc tucked between those two inductors, triggering the "too hot" message. It's a great board, just not the right board if you want run your .1 ohm "Triple Dragon Scale Fused Magnetron" coils on.
I would agree the OG 75 would do well with a boost, as long as you're within the 6.2v range. The 200 and 250, naw. There's enough "boost" from the, already, twin turbo'd dual buck circuitry that currently exists on those two pcb's. 200/250 watts is enough to get your coils pumping out vapor, fast. IMO
Besides, i hear Evolv is incorporating the "A11 Boinic" and "Coil Face ID" in it's next iteration of boards. The board will visually recognize the atty and it's resistance by you merely holding it up to the screen. magic!
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@Dna only try and re-flash the firmware. could be a glitch in the matrix.
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12 hours ago, spippo said:
Hi, excuse my English, I'm using Google Translator :-). I need some information, the chips that are highlighted in the photos, those quads, the square ones, I think they call MOSFET, Can they be installed with thermal paste to the aluminum body? Is it best to leave them completely isolated? What if those chips touch the body? Thank you!
yes you can use thermal paste on the inductors and it will be absolutely fine if they touch the inside casing of the mod. there is no electrical connection between the inductor's casing and the board.
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On 8/6/2017 at 7:02 PM, Austin said:
I bought the Vaposhark rDNA 60 a couple of weeks ago and am having some trouble getting it to work right. Set up for 316 SS, it starts off well, but after a little while it starts to get really weak. I've read on here about refinement and the resistance lock, but it seems to me that the temp control isn't working correctly. If I set up for 370 degrees, after refinement I'm hardly getting anythiong out of it. I've read that I should turn up the temperature setting to get the vape I want out of it, but doesn't that negate the point of having the DNA board?
I guess the short question is:
Is the initial vape I get when I first screw the atty on actually 370 degrees or is the super weak vape actually 370 degrees? I keep reading that these are extremely accurate, but it seems to me that one is WAY off from the other.
Thanks
it's normal to up the temp after refinement has done it's thing. (before refinement) just think of it as......when you initially screw on your atty and you set your temp limit to "370F", you're more than likely 50F - 80F (estimating) above 370F. after refinement (now a more accurate, lower base resistance), you're actually vaping at 370F, which is too cool of a vape for you. upping your temp after refinement does negate the point of having any board with refinement. the board is working exactly as it was designed. temp control on these boards, in terms of accuracy and repeatability is the cat's pajamas.
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is this the Hcigar mod that can be ran from either 2 or 3 cells? can you run a quick test for me? with it in 3 cell mode (3 cells installed), go into EScribe, under the "mod" tab in the "battery" section you'll see "type" select "power supply" and upload to your mod. see if your mod fires an atomizer normally. if it DOES fire, this means your analog front is bad (board is dead, basically). DO NOT think this is a fix or workaround. this is just a quick temporary way to see what's broken. running the mod in "power supply" mode, with a battery, offers 0 battery protection / safety.
another cause, albeit a slim one, could be a poor balance tap wire connection from sled to board. either way, contact whoever you purchased the mod from and inquire about a refund / return. last option, if the vendor and HCigar fails you, is to contact Evolv via a "help ticket" from their website.
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If they simply replace the existing ones with the same style, my guess is you'll have the same results, maybe not immediately but down the road, taking cells in and out from the mod. More robust contacts are what's needed. Who knows, maybe they have a fix / workaround I'm not aware of.
Therion 75C batterry draining
in General Discussion
Posted
Most anything with a PCB (circuit board) has ceramic capacitors these days. These MLCC capacitors are notorious for failing due to a wide variety of situations, but mainly heat and mechanical stress (drops) are the big two causes. This type of failure is common to everything from our vape devices to cell phones and everything in between. These ceramic caps can fail full short to partial short. It sounds to me like you may have a cap on the batt rail that is partially shorted to ground. I suspect a lot of these "my device drains cells when idle" or "my device gets hot when idle" could be this very problem. No fault of Evolv's, it just the nature of electronics. That's where Evolv's or the manufacturers warranty comes into play.
Failed MLCC cap circled in red.......