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Evolv never made one, but a user did. That's what I use, but another moderator uses the shorted 510. You should also do thermal calibration.

Thanks. Understood. I'll stop the material-curve testing for now and independently calibrate/verify the Odin's mod resistance first. I restored the manufacturer's defaults and 0.004Ω is the factory value, but I haven't independently measured the device's internal resistance. What calibration method would you recommend for a DNA250C/Odin if I don't have Evolv's copper calibration plug? Is the shorted-510 method appropriate for a DNA Color, or would you recommend a known-resistance load/TC wire instead? I'll also open a Help Desk ticket as suggested.

SO YOU COMTINUE WITHOUT CALIBRATING YOUR MOD AND ASK ME TO COMMENT. And no, i wouldn't want to look at any csv, certainly not a Pico. The mod measures coil resistance, and now with more information (Terpometer? never heard of that. Exterior ceramic?). At some point (no other comments) you should open a Help Desk ticket. Link in my signature line.

Update — I did some controlled testing with a Terpometer and EScribe Device Monitor. DTV5 XL with SiC insert on a DNA250C. Factory mod resistance is 0.004Ω and cold resistance is consistently around 0.466–0.469Ω. With a linear TCR200 material at 25W/250°F, the DNA sees Live Ohms around 0.474–0.475Ω as ~250°F and starts throttling heavily. However, direct Terpometer measurements showed the exterior ceramic only around 113°F. I then switched to plain Watts mode (Boost off) so TC couldn't interfere. At 20W I measured approximately: Cold: 86°F / ~0.467Ω 5 sec: 120°F / ~0.485Ω 10 sec: 156°F / ~0.499Ω The resistance rise in Watts mode is smooth and repeatable, and the SiC and exterior ceramic measurements are quite close. Does this suggest that a linear TCR200 curve is inappropriate for this particular V5 XL heater on the DNA250C? If so, does anyone have the current recommended DNA material CSV/curve for the V5 XL, or experience creating an individual material curve from measured temperature vs Live Ohms? I'm especially interested in whether the old V5 TSM workaround/custom point near ~200°F is still recommended for the XL, or whether individual heater calibration is now preferred. I haven't changed the DNA's factory 0.004Ω Mod Resistance.

Thanks — I did some more controlled testing based on your comments. I restored the Odin to the online Dovpo manufacturer defaults and left the factory Mod Resistance at 0.004Ω. I then created a fresh temperature-sensing material using a linear TCR of 0.0002 (TCR200), with no preheat or Session Mode. With the V5 XL completely cold, Atomizer Analyzer is stable at 0.473Ω (Raw 0.477Ω) around 84°F. Moving/twisting the atomizer does not change the reading. I then measured the cold resistance for the TC profile and recorded a short 25W / 250°F run in Device Monitor. The CSV shows Cold Ohms at 0.466Ω and Live Ohms rising approximately: 0.469 → 0.472 → 0.473 → 0.474 → 0.475Ω As it approaches ~0.475Ω, the DNA calculates approximately 250°F and throttles the power substantially. However, a direct-contact Terpometer on the SiC insert only reaches roughly 125–130°F. I also noticed occasional anomalous samples in the EScribe recording, including a calculated temperature spike around 756°F / an 800°F Temp Peak, despite the 250°F setpoint. For comparison, I put the exact same atomizer on an Eleaf Pico running ArcticFox. I verified the Pico profile is also set to Temperature Control, TCR200. The Pico reads the atomizer around 0.45Ω cold and heats the SiC substantially more at the same nominal temperature setting. So at this point I'm hesitant to change the Odin's Mod Resistance or compensate by increasing the temperature/TCR. Does the DNA resistance/temperature behavior above look normal to you? In particular, would the transient ~756–800°F calculated samples suggest an electrical/contact issue, or is that something Device Monitor can report during normal transitions? I have the EScribe and ArcticFox CSV recordings available if they would help.

Thanks, that helps. I hadn't accounted for the DNA normalizing the cold resistance to 70°F. I'll check the cold-ohms value in the TC profile after attaching the XL heater cold. The bigger issue I'm trying to understand is that Device Monitor reaches the TC setpoint and throttles power while a direct-contact thermometer on the SiC surface is still substantially below the expected temperature.

No idea if Dovpo made any changes from the evolv defaults, but you can run those yourself. As well as setting/checking the internal mod resistance. Who even knows if your Pico is accurate. Atomizer analyzer also showed you a temperature. Your mod uses that temperature to figure out internally what cold reading is at 70ºF for TC. You can see that in your TC profile right after the coil Ω's.

Hi all, I'm troubleshooting a Dovpo Odin DNA250C that appears to be reading resistance higher than another mod. Using the same completely cold atomizer, without firing: Odin DNA250C Atomizer Analyzer: 0.469Ω (Raw 0.473Ω) Eleaf Pico/ArcticFox: 0.450Ω (Live 0.451Ω) Odin factory Mod Resistance: 0.004Ω I also tested a second atomizer and saw the same pattern, with the Odin reading noticeably higher. So far I've cleaned the 510/contacts, checked for resistance changes while gently moving the atomizer (stable), reapplied the DNA250C service pack, and performed an online Restore Defaults from Evolv, which restored the original Odin manufacturer configuration/theme. The resistance reading remained essentially unchanged. This matters because I'm using temperature control and the Odin reaches its calculated temperature while the actual heater runs substantially cooler than it does on the Pico. Before changing the factory 0.004Ω Mod Resistance or opening the Odin, is there a recommended DNA250C procedure for determining whether this is a 510/internal resistance issue, board measurement issue, or calibration issue? Thanks!

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I will troubleshoot a bit myself and worst case try replacing it. As far as powering off goes, it sounds more like this is a "works as designed" for DNA devices. Good to know and thanks for the clarification.

10-20% in a day!!? seems if that's true, you may have some other issue. I have left mine for upwards of a week & seen less than a 15% drop in battery. To solve your problem with the button firing mode and it accidentally firing somehow, you can rapidly click the fire button 5 times to engage a fully locked, un-puffable state, right? I'm not sure if you're a seasoned DNA owner or not, but none of them (that I own or am aware of) actually fully and completely "power down" in the traditional sense. They generally will fall into the the sleep state James mentioned, and in this state, they consume comically small amounts of power. Of course, people should remove their batteries if not planning to use their DNA mod for a length of time on applicable mods , but The One, easily has the most run time - and consequently, the most standby time out of any pod system in my collection. So yeah, just manually lock it by pressing the fire button 5x, like all other products made by Evolv. Drain will be negligible & accidental activations become nigh impossible. Also, you may want to submit a ticket if you're truly seeing up to a 20% decrease in standby battery drain over a 24hr period. That is not even close to what it should be under reasonable environmental conditions. I don't lose 20% using it for the day, I believe last I misplaced it for around 5 or so days, it was around 82% when I found it almost a week later. Cheers! hope you find the solution you're looking for!

Hi friends, as to absolutely nobodies suprise i found out that dovpo cheaped out on possibly the dumbest thing they could have ever done. The photos speak for themselves. The funny part is that the exact same defect occured on both devices mere days between topgear one and topgear 2 (one is exactly 1 year old and the other one about 2) This is caused by normal use, using moli p30b's. Do i just try to 3dprint a new housing for the pads? Dovpos customer service is also non existant. All ideas welcome, including jay haze's way of dealing with a non functioning topgear.🧱

Reasons for having this: extended battery life when not using, safety of not having to worry about it firing in a pocket when using the button mode. If I don't pick it up for a day, I notice a 10-20% drop. I don't think I've ever come across an e cigarette device that doesn't let you manually power it off and I would've expected this to be one of the most basic functions included. Would be nice to see it added.

no error that I can see anywhere. Is there a log file anywhere? I attempt to launch the program, and I see in task manager that escribe.exe opens for a second or two and then closes. No error popup. I am on windows 11 pro 25h2 os build 26200.9278 Everything worked normally before applying the sp77. I am not sure what sp version I was on before. I think maybe 75.

We hadn't planned on adding it, though I could certainly be convinced otherwise. It should automatically turn off after three days. Are you finding the battery drain too high? Its sleep-mode power consumption ought to be very low. God bless. James

What error are you getting? Thanks!

我更新了固件，为了判断问题是芯片还是线圈引起的，我拆开了一个烧毁的烟弹，只保留线圈。然后我点火，带着那个线圈，这次它正常显示了“加注舱”警告。 所以看起来芯片和线圈都正常工作。 也许问题是我自己用得好，而不是硬件或固件的问题。 VID_20260905_222402.mp4

You should update to the latest version (last post). Link in my signature line. I've never had that issue with any pod and you missed it could be a coil issue.

I have encountered this issue as well. Have you resolved it?

Hi everyone, I’ve been checking many threads about the “fill pod” warning on the Oxva Pro 2 DNA. Most people seem to have the opposite problem — they get frequent “fill pod” messages even when the pod still has plenty of liquid. But my device is the other way around. I’m using the SS coil, and when I insert the pod it shows “anti burn,” but I never get any “fill pod” warning at all. Because of that, I’ve already burned two pods. I’ve read a lot of replies and checked my settings in Escribe. Under Safety → Fill Pod, the feature is enabled, and I even set it to “High.” So my question is: Could this be a chip/firmware issue? My firmware version is 1.1 SP125.1 INT. Any help or insight would be appreciated🫶

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SP77 does not seem to load on Windows 11. I applied the SP77 and it broke the application. where can I find older installers?

Hi everyone, I still have a ThinkVape Finder DNA 250C and, fortunately, the device itself is still working perfectly. The DNA 250C board, screen, 510 connection and electronics are all fine. Unfortunately, a small section of the internal plastic battery compartment/frame has broken, and the missing piece was lost. I am trying to restore the mod rather than replace it, especially because devices like the Finder are becoming increasingly difficult to find nowadays. Does anyone here happen to have: an STL / STEP / CAD file for the Finder 250C internal battery frame; a 3D model of the battery tray / battery holder / inner chassis; technical drawings or dimensions of this part; or even a damaged Finder 250C from which this plastic component could be recovered? I have already considered contacting ThinkVape directly to ask whether they still have the original engineering files archived. I am attaching photos showing exactly which part has broken. Even if someone has an intact Finder 250C and could provide detailed photos and measurements of this area, that would already help a lot because I could have the missing section recreated in CAD and 3D printed. Thanks in advance for any help!