TC mode switches to Power/Watts and won’t return to TC mode

[TonyB]

I’ve been messing with a troublesome Atty that works in TC ok initially then after a refill or when I mess with settings on the mod switches in to a power/watts mode and won’t switch back to TC even though I’m using a TC set profile. I’m using 316L SS wire.

I went in to Escribe after a clean up let it cool down took an Atomiser reading and locked the ohms. It worked for half a tank but I tried to see if I could adjust the Pre-heat which I had zero’d out previously in Escribe. 
 

Well I couldn’t figure out how to adjust pre-heat on the mod for TC, only for Wattage mode, so is that change only possible in Escribe for TC mode.

 

what can I do to get my mod to switch back to TC when it’s switched over to Power/Watts and won’t switch back?

[BillW50]

Yes, if the TFR/TCR file doesn't match the material type, it will kick out of TC mode. Unscrewing the atty a bit and retightening should make it think you are using a new coil. Are you using one of those coil heads? You know store bought coils you just pop in. If so, they often use nickel legs and that changes the correct TFR/TCR. So what kind of atty is this?

[TonyB]

On 3/10/2024 at 5:51 AM, BillW50 said:

Yes, if the TFR/TCR file doesn't match the material type, it will kick out of TC mode. Unscrewing the atty a bit and retightening should make it think you are using a new coil. Are you using one of those coil heads? You know store bought coils you just pop in. If so, they often use nickel legs and that changes the correct TFR/TCR. So what kind of atty is this?

 

On 3/10/2024 at 5:51 AM, BillW50 said:

Yes, if the TFR/TCR file doesn't match the material type, it will kick out of TC mode. Unscrewing the atty a bit and retightening should make it think you are using a new coil. Are you using one of those coil heads? You know store bought coils you just pop in. If so, they often use nickel legs and that changes the correct TFR/TCR. So what kind of atty is this?

I’m using a rebuildable RTA Hussar Avant. The wire profile 316L SS is correct it’s the same one I’ve been using for years on all my DNA boards and has always worked. 

[BillW50]

Ah nice. And this is on a DNA60, correct? The post screws are nice and snug, right? Remember too, all it takes are two wire wraps shorting to kick it out of TC. Some say the material type file isn't correct on the stock DNA non-color boards for SS316L. So you can get one from steam-engine and use that one instead. And let us know how that works out.

[Wayneo]

With a cold coil (ambient temp)
Start escribe and go to your current profile. Do a full screenshot. 
Scroll to the bottom of the page. Start/click Atomizer Analyzer. Tell me how much it fluctuates over a 2 minute period. It will fluctuate. 
Start Device Monitor. Enable the checkboxes below. Take a puff. Pause Device Monitor, scroll back to the puff. Do a full screenshot.

Thanks.

 

[TonyB]

On 3/11/2024 at 4:21 PM, BillW50 said:

Ah nice. And this is on a DNA60, correct? The post screws are nice and snug, right? Remember too, all it takes are two wire wraps shorting to kick it out of TC. Some say the material type file isn't correct on the stock DNA non-color boards for SS316L. So you can get one from steam-engine and use that one instead. And let us know how that works out.

Yes DNA60. I’m actually using a 316L profile that Daniel from YouTube channel DJLSB vapes did years ago. He had noted that the stock DNA profile was a bit off. I’ve used it for years. 
 

it seems to have settled down now. I might try the tests below and see what the produces. Thanks for your input so far.

[Wayneo]

IIRC, that was during an early release of the DNA75C, before the many firmware updates and he changed it to effectively 100, or in proper terms 0.001

Steam-engine has it at 88. So Daniel's would feel a little warmer.