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Lost Vape Centaurus Resistance Reading Issues


Enigma

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First up i have been vaping for about 8 years but this is the second DNA device i've owned (Therion was first).

Ok so the jist of the issue is when i attach a cold RTA and measure the resistance for example it will read 0.4, ok so i fire it and it increases, this is normal, at this point it gets frustratingly weird. If i leave the device alone and not fire the resistance naturally lowers as it cools, the issue is the resistance will now drop lower than the initial cold resistance. Naturally if i read the cold resistance in a temp control profile it wont even fire, doesn't say atomiser error or temp controlled, it just wont fire. Of course if i use it in replay or power mode it does fire. Thinking there must have been a setting error i loaded the default configuration for the Centaurus but still had the same issue. I then tried the RTAs on an Ehpro Cold Steel as well as an old Pico 75w that has Arctic Fox on it. Temp controlled worked as expected on the Pico and the Cold Steel didnt have issues detecting the resistance.

The coils i have tried and all resulted in a dropping resistance are all SS316L (26ga, 28ga, 26ga twisted, 28ga twisted, 28ga fused, 26ga fused, you get the idea i have tried a lot) each have been tried as contact or spaced.

RTA used in testing, HellVape Destiny, Augvape Intake, Dovpo Blotto.

The resistance should never drop lower from its cold reading but here it does every time with a temp sensing wire, at this point i can only assume it has to be the device since i have never had this much an issue with temp control before.

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1 hour ago, dwcraig1 said:

So how much lower does the resistance change after it's been sitting? A little, a lot?

I've noted the resistance going about 30-40% lower than the cold reading, definately enough to screw up and temp control. Thinking back I'm pretty sure I've even noticed n80 coils resistance change, I never really cared though simply because it was in power mode. 

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1 minute ago, retird said:

Have you tried, with a cold atty/coil, measuring the coil from within the profile and locking it.  See what you get...

 

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Yeah I thought locking may help for about 2 minutes till I realised locking it at a resistance higher than its base would just screw up the temp settings. Basically it would always think it was at a much much higher temp always. Also the device wouldn't fire because it would detect the resistance lower than what was locked. 

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1 hour ago, Enigma said:

Yeah I thought locking may help for about 2 minutes till I realised locking it at a resistance higher than its base would just screw up the temp settings. Basically it would always think it was at a much much higher temp always. Also the device wouldn't fire because it would detect the resistance lower than what was locked. 

How about typing the lower resistance in the cold ohm's box and locking that???  

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2 hours ago, retird said:

Have you fired the atty and let it get cold and then ran Atty Analyzer?  

Gave that a try this morning to see what was going on, as expected it did pretty much what i was seeing when just doing a simple resistance measure. I did notice how ever that there could be a 0.02 to 0.04 difference in resistance depending on how much the RTA was screwed on. 

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7 hours ago, Enigma said:

Gave that a try this morning to see what was going on, as expected it did pretty much what i was seeing when just doing a simple resistance measure. I did notice how ever that there could be a 0.02 to 0.04 difference in resistance depending on how much the RTA was screwed on. 

I had a 510 connector several years ago that did the same thing.  I used a 510 to 510 adapter between the atty and the device 510 connector and it worked  until I  got around to changing the 510 of the device. I've also had poor connections to the 510 of the device (cold solder joints and/or loose chassis grounds).  I've even had bad insulators between the center pin and the 510 base.

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1 hour ago, retird said:

I had a 510 connector several years ago that did the same thing.  I used a 510 to 510 adapter between the atty and the device 510 connector and it worked  until I  got around to changing the 510 of the device. I've also had poor connections to the 510 of the device (cold solder joints and/or loose chassis grounds).  I've even had bad insulators between the center pin and the 510 base.

Well it's only 2 weeks old so I certainly won't be opening it or fiddling with adapter's, I'll send it back and let them deal with it. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/13/2020 at 4:25 AM, retird said:

Please let us know how it turns out....  

So I have no idea what was wrong with it or possible fixes, the shop I sent it back to just simply refunded me. The very worrying trouble I'm having now is the same issue is starting to present it self with my new Odin Mini (DNA75C), it was perfect the first week and now it's doing the weird resistance reading the Centaurus was doing. 

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38 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

Just to be clear here by doing the same thing mean that the resistance is dropping considerably lower than the initial reading? 

Yes that's correct. For some reason it's like the cold resistance needs a short fire to actually read the proper resistance after it cools down again. 

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2 hours ago, retird said:

What do you get when you build a single wire spaced coil? Not a fused or twisted coil? 

Does the resistance vary depending on how much you screw the atty on like before?  

If the issue continues start a ticket with Evolv....    https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

At this point I've given up on Temp Control and Replay, far far to much a hassle to get anywhere near a stable vape. I'll just use the DNA mod in Wattage mode and N80 from here on in. 

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I have experienced  somewhat similar situations long ago when firing a new cartomizer or drop in coil head for the first time.

For example a 1.5 ohm carto would read 3 ohm till fired then after that it would read close to 1.5.  This I contributed to the press fit connections within the carto.  So in your case you need to make sure this problem isn't related at post to wire connections if you hadn't already double checked that. Any atty with a spring loaded positive pin is also troublesome when used with a spring loaded 510.

BTW, I wrote this prior to your last post but am posting it anyway.

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2 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

I have experienced a somewhat similar situation long ago when firing a new cartomizer or drop in coil head for the first time.

For example a 1.5 ohm carto would read 3 ohm till fired then after that it would read close to 1.5.  This I contributed to the press fit connections within the carto.  So in your case you need to make sure this problem isn't related at post to wire connections if you hadn't already double checked that. Any atty with a spring loaded positive pin is also troublesome when used with a spring loaded 510.

BTW, I wrote this prior to your last post but am posting it anyway.

I dont actually use tanks, only RTAs and RDAs, haha I didn't think cartomizers existed anymore. As for the tanks I tested I opened, cleaned, move, soaked, changed coils, moved coils, changed screws, the lot, this was over 5 different tanks as well. So unfortunately not relevant in this situation. 

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I went back and read your initial post to see just what wire you are using, I see it is 316L. To use that wire and to have it work correctly is a challenge. I honestly don't see why folks seem to think it's good stuff.

Try this, go to Steamengine and get the CSV for SS430, the temp in EScribe will be way low and not close to accurate. Keep your preheat and wattage to something that's reasonable and just see if that works OK. 

I use 316 on rare occasions only when I'm up for a good challange.

My advise would be to start out doing TC with a wire that's easier to get working right, SS430, NiFe 48 or NiFe30.

Nickel 200 works  great temp wise but it's too soft for me, I use SS430  almost always.

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Strangely enough I'm not using a DNA mod here at work otherwise I would get the modified CSV that I use for 316L from it and upload it here. It's temp is not too accurate but still offers some level of dry hit protection. When I get home in a couple of hours I'll post it via PM to you.

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1 hour ago, dwcraig1 said:

Strangely enough I'm not using a DNA mod here at work otherwise I would get the modified CSV that I use for 316L from it and upload it here. It's temp is not too accurate but still offers some level of dry hit protection. When I get home in a couple of hours I'll post it via PM to you.

Thanks for the offer but a temp profile has no bearing on resistance, infact no temp profile in existence would be usefully if the resistance is measured incorrectly. I have tried multiple CSV from steam engine, the stock standard ones in Escribe and a v4 one made from someone ages ago. Haha my Google Foo is quite strong when I'm trying to fix something. 

As for SS316L, well that's because in Australia that's pretty much all we can get our hands on, I don't want Titanium for health concerns and Nife always seemed like a pain. 

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2 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

I'm not sure that I can recall a DNA board ever reading under, over yes for various reasons.  I'm under the impression that as soon as you hit the fire button it instantly hits the temp limit and doesn't fire, is that correct?

Yes and no, the measurement taken is locked in when measured, so Replay still would fire, and yes TC should just not fire if it falls enough below the original reading. Also if it say reads at 0.5 and still fires because of the lock then the temp degrees and cutoff points would be wrong, ie it could be set at 150 degs C and still burn your throat out thinking it hasn't even reached 150 yet when the real resistance is actually 0.3 or something. Soooo many things wants to burn your lungs out when it comes to TC lol. 

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Oh on a side note I just changed RTAs and this one has a N80 fused coil, cold read was 0.695, 2 puffs and measured again, yep you guessed it, even with N80 the resistance is dropping, already dropped to 0.654, wtf now it's jumped to 0.713 FFS. 

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