vass.mavridis Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Hello, Im not sure if im posting in the right section but here it goes. I just finished my first dna 200 build yesterday and i ran into issues right away. My first being that my dna wont stay on unless i have the usb plugged in. My escribe program says that my cells are at 3.85 v each so id figure thatd be enough to power up the device and not require the usb. My 2nd issue is that im getting the check atomizer issue. My device also says 0 volts and 0 ohms. If anyone has any advice what my next step should be to trying to solve the issue or at least narrowing down what it may be, that be great. Im attaching some pictures for refrence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Could be a blown fuse, check the voltage is the same on both sides of the fuse with a metre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vass.mavridis Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Rechecking the fuse i noticed something quite disheartining. I resoldered the cable by the fuse 3 times to get the right length for my connector. It seems like the last time i did it some of the solder flowed to the fuse and the results can be by the picture im attaching. It looks like thats the problem huh? Anything i can do to fix it? Id rather not shell out another 80$ on a board and my unregulated box is having its own issues not having anything to vape on is killer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 It looks like the top pad for the fuse is intact so you maybe able to fix the fuse to that and butt the wire to the other end. Alternatively you could bridge the fuse and use a 25 A auto fuse on the positive wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vass.mavridis Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Could you clarify what i fix the fuse to? Im trying to understand the 1st option you gave me. As for the 2nd option, how would i bridge it? And the auto fuse would go after the pad and in the middle of the wiring? From what i recall auto fuses usually have 2 legs. Sorry for the noob questions, just starting to get into working with electronics VapingBad said:It looks like the top pad for the fuse is intact so you maybe able to fix the fuse to that and butt the wire to the other end. Alternatively you could bridge the fuse and use a 25 A auto fuse on the positive wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 vass.mavridis said:Could you clarify what i fix the fuse to? Im trying to understand the 1st option you gave me. As for the 2nd option, how would i bridge it? And the auto fuse would go after the pad and in the middle of the wiring? From what i recall auto fuses usually have 2 legs. Sorry for the noob questions, just starting to get into working with electronics [QUOTE=VapingBad]It looks like the top pad for the fuse is intact so you maybe able to fix the fuse to that and butt the wire to the other end. Alternatively you could bridge the fuse and use a 25 A auto fuse on the positive wire.[/QUOTE]Have a look at this thread it should answer your questions, I can't tell for sure form your picture if the solder pads for the fuse are damaged, maybe not and if not you can just fit the standard fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueridgedog Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Either the pad has lifted or there is a large standoff solder bridge.I recommend you swap the fuse. and tighten/shorten your battery legs.http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Schurter/3413033222/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujkDmRci6X%252bAjZpKNMNNwxjncWzATFONlvFFtZLJI1Yww%3d%3d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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