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DNA 40 screens


eagleswind2
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IMG_2174.jpg  I'm completely new to building mod boxes and it's electronics but not new to custom wood working. So I'm here seeking help, suggestions and ideas. In my boxes I'm using the DNA 40 chips and the next will be the DNA 200 chips. My major question is now how do I secure the LED screen to the wood box itself? I assume it would have to be easily removable in case of repair or replacement. Some of my boxes are Hammond size which has space to work in while the others are mini size with limited space. I'm also looking for a good source of supply for quality parts used in the boxes. Im using Evolv for the chips, Mitec 12mm fire button. V4 510 connector, C&K tactile switches for the power buttons and 18 and 24 awg silicone wire. All my boxes are made from 100 yr old barn wood so I call them my resurrection mods for bringing the dead back to life again. :). So if anyone can help with advise, ideas and such it would be greatly appreciated. Here are a couple of 20 boxes which are the Hammond size.  IMG_2163.jpg
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eagleswind2 said:

Im getting ready to wire up my first DNA 40 chip. Before I do does it matter which 2 prongs out of the 4 I use on the C&K tactile switch for the power up and down? Also does it matter which one is used for the positive side and the negative side?

 
Regarding the tactile switch it does matter which of the 'prongs' you connect to.

Tact_Switch.png 
In my little sketch of the push button switch you can see that there are two prongs on each side of the switch contacts so you'll need a continuity tester to make sure you don't connect to two prongs in the same pair else your mod will act like the switch is pressed all the time.

It makes no difference which is used as the +ve side or -ve side.

Hope that helps.
 
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I noticed while trying to solder the recommended wire to the dna 40 chip the 24 awg wire fit well in the contact holes in the chip but the recommended 18 awg wire would not without fraying. I've tried both the solid stranded wire and also purchased the silicone wire which neither could be twisted enough to fit through the holes. So do you drill the holes larger or lay the wire on top the holes in the chip and solder over them? If the wires don't fit what purpose do they serve? Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...
eagleswind2 said:

I noticed while trying to solder the recommended wire to the dna 40 chip the 24 awg wire fit well in the contact holes in the chip but the recommended 18 awg wire would not without fraying. I've tried both the solid stranded wire and also purchased the silicone wire which neither could be twisted enough to fit through the holes. So do you drill the holes larger or lay the wire on top the holes in the chip and solder over them? If the wires don't fit what purpose do they serve? Thanks

what i did was tinned up the 18 guage and then dressed the first couple of mill down with a fine emery board to help guide it in. That box is so nice...
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eagleswind2 said:

I noticed while trying to solder the recommended wire to the dna 40 chip the 24 awg wire fit well in the contact holes in the chip but the recommended 18 awg wire would not without fraying. I've tried both the solid stranded wire and also purchased the silicone wire which neither could be twisted enough to fit through the holes. So do you drill the holes larger or lay the wire on top the holes in the chip and solder over them? If the wires don't fit what purpose do they serve? Thanks


If you use silicone insulated tin the wire before stripping, you just hold the iron on the end and feed in flux cored solder you can tell how far it got up the wire by it stiffening. Thee snip the end of and strip or pull back the insulation and it will go straight into the holes on the DNA40.
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