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More Useful to Show Voltage or Amps?


Jalcide

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I switched the line that normally shows voltage, to current (amps) and feel it's a bit more informative as to what's going on under the hood; the absolute draw from the battery.

With wattage and temperature being shown, is there really any value in seeing the volts being pushed, or is it just a holdover from pre-wattage regulation days?

My thinking here is that as the voltage drops with battery depletion, the amps need to increase to maintain the same wattage / temperature (physics), so amps seem more non-intuitive than voltage, as voltage is linear with battery level. Amps are more of a real-time calculation that's hard to imagine in one's head.

Since the amps are less intuitive, across battery drain, it might be better to show that on the display.

For battery safety monitoring, as well.

Thoughts?

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As far as I know the voltage and current shown are over/though the coil (read: the output of the DC-to-DC converter) and say nothing about the voltage and current actually @ the battery (read: the input of the DC-to-DC converter).

You do have the possibility to monitor the total battery (and/or the 3 cell) voltage(s) not the current. The DNA hardware monitors for battery safety (and does a good job) but I agree that it would be nice to have the option to show the current. I do not know if there is a hardware sensor for this.

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Yeah, I used the EScribe software to switch the line that normally shows voltage, to show current (total amps draw on the battery that the coil is asking for at that moment in time, all cells combined).

The value is real-time and in line with what I'd expect, so I think it's accurate and showing what's hitting the battery pack, as a whole.

Also, the values match what's shown in the Device Monitor, so it's got to be the real deal.

It's pretty darn nice. I think I'm gonna keep it like this. Seeing voltage values never really spoke to my sensibilities.

So cool that we can do this.

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bmclaurin said:

How do you guys see anything on the screen while you're vaping? What am I missing?

As to your question, wouldn't it be showing voltage and/or current being applied to the atty? (i.e., not what is being drawn from the battery)



On my EFusion, it is possible to see while vaping if you hold it right. Also, it can be fired without airflow, just to get a ballpark value.

I'm not sure if the DNA 200 compensates for its own 90% efficacy rating, when showing amps. It would have to for calculating wattage and temp at the coil accurately, but maybe not for the display.

That's a good question.

Yeah, I bet the value is the post-90%. So, maybe add another 10% to that value to know what's really hitting the battery.


Either way, it's close enough for me.


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speed4mee said:

I think to show the current is useless. I switched from Volt to Last Temperature :D



Not a bad idea. Yeah, maybe you're right about amps. It's interesting, but not very useful.

And I now realize what I really want to see: last mean-wattage.

Wait... Mean power DOES exist in the DM. Wow, how did I miss that.

Now if Evolv can get that showing on the device, as one of the field options, I'd be delighted.
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This is awesome. I've now got it showing Last Power in field 2 and Last Temperature in field 3.

So, the mean-wattage and mean-temperature from the last puff.

Now that is useful.

I can always see the set temp by going into the temp set screen.

Perfect!

Thanks for sending me down this enlightened path, speed4mee. :thumb:

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Jalcide said:

Yeah, I used the EScribe software to switch the line that normally shows voltage, to show current (total amps draw on the battery that the coil is asking for at that moment in time, all cells combined).

The value is real-time and in line with what I'd expect, so I think it's accurate and showing what's hitting the battery pack, as a whole.

Also, the values match what's shown in the Device Monitor, so it's got to be the real deal.

It's pretty darn nice. I think I'm gonna keep it like this. Seeing voltage values never really spoke to my sensibilities.

So cool that we can do this.


As I said: the current shown is not the current of the battery, unless you have a different EScribe version than 1.0.35.

Example:
Coil 0,2 ohm, Power set to 50W
@ coil: V=3,2V I=15,8A (= 50W)
@ battery: V=11,1V I=1,8A (= 50W)
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Here's the good thing you can change it to whatever you want. I'm into TC first and foremost so Ohms, Voltage & Temperature is where it's all at especially once you understand Heat Coefficients of your coils. Heat Coefficient .. I know what the applied voltage 'should be' for an appx temperature. 

However, as far as 'Battery Safety' is concerned Amps is the last place of concern on this or frankly any 'properly' functioning device, that's work you should have done before you installed a battery. 23A is the max that will be drawn from your battery, 25A is the onboard fuse input limit.

So 'what's really important' .. I'd safely say it's A LOT MORE concerning what's the Voltage of EACH CELL. LiPo's have a short lifespan in comparison to a properly maintained 18650, and what's worse is you can potentially have a catastrophic failure when one of the, in our case, three cells is dead or simply is failing. I'm already reading reports of eg Hotcig and I'm absolutely certain there are others of the packs having a bad cell.

Example:
Cell-Charging.jpg 

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Bobby said:


As I said: the current shown is not the current of the battery, unless you have a different EScribe version than 1.0.35.

Example:
Coil 0,2 ohm, Power set to 50W
@ coil: V=3,2V I=15,8A (= 50W)
@ battery: V=11,1V I=1,8A (= 50W)



Ahh, right. Yeah, we misunderstood each other. You were talking about "current of the battery" (measured directly) and I was talking about "current from the battery" at that moment in time via the load the coil is asking for.

But I'm now way more interested in showing Last Power and Last Temp (which it does!).
 




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Thanks, Jaquith.

Yeah, I can see how voltage could be insightful.

My approach is different. What I really wanted all along was mean-wattage after all was said and done.

I always know what the target wattage should be for a given build, temperature control aside.

I'm a happy camper now, as "Last Power" gives me exactly that.

This is kind of a game-changer for me.

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