wddragon Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 I for the life of me can't find a hardware store that sells the correct bolt size or rod to perform this test correctly and accurately. Can anyone who has done this test post your results. Thanks a bunch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenshin6353 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 hi...i got email from wismec....here's the file they gave me.... officially from wismec ..https://www.dropbox.com/s/q7wf31sn797ze69/W009-151106-2.8V-CASEJAYBO-MP.ecig?dl=0they hv mod resistance, case analyzer... but i dont think the batery Wh is correct....and the battery csv.... it shld be based on wat battery u r using.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auditorium Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 I can't open this file, can you tel me the internal resistance and the other settings ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Vapin_Architect Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Yeah I can't get it to open either..thanks for posting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenshin6353 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Vapin_Architect Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Thank you...your link does work haha sorry about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahless Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 The Wh looks to be for the batteries that come with the mod, namely the Sony VCT4's. Interesting that they set the soft cut off to 2.8v.Also interesting that their case cooling time constant is different to what I got when I ran the case analyser so it might be worth running this yourselves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenshin6353 Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Kahless said:The Wh looks to be for the batteries that come with the mod, namely the Sony VCT4's. Interesting that they set the soft cut off to 2.8v.Also interesting that their case cooling time constant is different to what I got when I ran the case analyser so it might be worth running this yourselves?yea.. i aslo wondering 2.8v is safe cutoff... but for 18650, minimum safe cut off is 2.5v...yea, running the case analyzer will come out different result by different ppl and different enviroment... but these data is given by wismec.... sure, we can run for ourselves too...im jst sharing wat i'v got from them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 It is safe. The hard cutoff (not configurable) is around that voltage to ensure safety. However, by setting it at that level you may not get meaningful soft cutoff.With soft cutoff at 2.8V, when the battery gets very low/weak, instead of the DNA dialing down the power so you can extract the last 10% or so of battery life, it is just going to say Check Battery. And you will have to dial down the power manually.It isn't what I'd do. But, to each their own. I'd make it at least 2.9V to get the battery-extending of the soft cutoff.People often misunderstand the nature of soft cutoff. If you look at a battery discharge curve, with lines for 1C, 5C, 10C, etc., it isn't saying Check Battery at that voltage. Instead, you'll notice that the lines tend to crater in voltage at a particular mAh. What soft cutoff does is, when the battery is about to fall off at that voltage, it instead goes *horizontally* on that curve, to the right, toward lower C value curves that end at a higher mAh. The battery can't give full power at that point much longer, and if you try it's about empty, so soft cutoff kicks in and gives you a power level it can keep going on. For total battery life soft cutoff is your friend. Maybe we should have given it a better name... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolley Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I have tested wismec reuleaux dna200. The minimum safe is 2.7V, just similar to official Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipoid Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Mod resistance of .003 does seem very low.When i have tested mine(1.5mm copper through the posts on a Dodge 2) i get .014.If i take the same RDA setup & try the mod resistance of my own build(Fat Daddy V4 & Lipo) i get .006.I wonder if they are stating nominal ohm's instead of raw Ohm's ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisss Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Doing the mod resistance test via a dripper (doge in your example) could also add resistance due to the screw connections and the 510 connection. I have found the most accurate way of doing it would be to take that 1.5 mm copper wire and short the 510 directly or ideally if anyone knows where we can get m7 copper grub screws that would be an answer! However saying this throws up another dilemma, If we are measuring the mod resistance to ensure the coil reading is spot on., then any resistance in the tank/dripper would put that reading out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celtic Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Speaking of the battery configuration, why is it the Escribe software doesn't have an option to select Li-ion as battery type? Does it matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipoid Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I do realise that the dripper could/will add resistance but what i don't understand is how using the same dripper setup that my own build can be .008 lower than the Rolo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh2288 Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 kenshin6353 said:[QUOTE=Kahless]The Wh looks to be for the batteries that come with the mod, namely the Sony VCT4's. Interesting that they set the soft cut off to 2.8v.Also interesting that their case cooling time constant is different to what I got when I ran the case analyser so it might be worth running this yourselves?yea.. i aslo wondering 2.8v is safe cutoff... but for 18650, minimum safe cut off is 2.5v...yea, running the case analyzer will come out different result by different ppl and different enviroment... but these data is given by wismec.... sure, we can run for ourselves too...im jst sharing wat i'v got from them...[/QUOTE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XenonRam Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 Celtic said:Speaking of the battery configuration, why is it the Escribe software doesn't have an option to select Li-ion as battery type? Does it matter? Both lithium-ion batteries (The cylindrical 18650 style batteries) and lithium polymer batteries (More correctly lithium-ion polymer batteries.) are all technically lithium-ion batteries. The lithium-ion batteries and lithium polymer batteries are all lithium-ion batteries, and all use the same electrochemistry. So setting the eScribe for lithium polymer is fine. I do agree they should have both setting options so it doesn't confuse people. A real lithium polymer battery is a misnomer because, although real lithium polymer batteries do exist, the ones we use and think of as lithium polymer batteries are not true lithium polymer batteries; they're just lithium-ion batteries in a flexible pouch or prismatic form. The "real" lithium polymer batteries use a polymer electrode instead of a liquid electrolyte like most lithium-ion and lithium polymer batteries we use have. True lithium polymer battery tech is still in its infancy and aren't really available commercially. All the ones we use today, whether it be a 3s pouch in a DNA, a prismatic cell in a cell phone, or an 18650 in a mod, are all lithium-ion batteries and all use a liquid electrolyte. Disclaimer: Even though we just finished studying electrochemistry in chem 2, I'm no expert on lithium battery chemistry. (And to tell you the truth, we didn't go into much detail on e-chem because our professor said if we decide to go into a job in battery chemistry technology, and need to learn e-chem, we can take it in grad school as part of our PhD studies.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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