Wismec DNA200 "Check Battery Fault"

[Majnu]

My Wismec DNA200 has developed a fault

The screen has gone very dim and displays check battery. I have tried other batches of batteries that I have and it still displays the same not allowing the device to function.

It doesn't show the atty resistance also

Any ideas?

[VapingBad]

Assuming the batteries are charges and you have cleaned the contacts (mod and battery) with IPA, rubbing alcohol, meths or other contact cleaner:

Have a look in EScribe - Device Monitor for the cell voltages, if they are fully charged they should be 4.2 V also look for a low one, you can try and get them setted better in the battery tray if they are low.  If you have a low cell1 and can't solve it by swapping the batteries around, there is a screw hold blocked off with white foam behind the batteries, below that is a screw for the ground connection that might have loosened, but be careful not to over-tighten it. 

If you change the batteries while connected to USB it may not have registered the power off so a soft reboot or removing and replacing the batteries may help.

[Majnu]

VapingBad said:

Assuming the batteries are charges and you have cleaned the contacts (mod and battery) with IPA, rubbing alcohol, meths or other contact cleaner:

Have a look in EScribe - Device Monitor for the cell voltages, if they are fully charged they should be 4.2 V also look for a low one, you can try and get them setted better in the battery tray if they are low.  If you have a low cell1 and can't solve it by swapping the batteries around, there is a screw hold blocked off with white foam behind the batteries, below that is a screw for the ground connection that might have loosened, but be careful not to over-tighten it. 

If you change the batteries while connected to USB it may not have registered the power off so a soft reboot or removing and replacing the batteries may help.

Just cleaned everything with IPA and connected to Escribe. The batteries are definitely fully charged. I have 2 sets of Samsung 30Q's fresh of charge. I use the XTAR VC4. 

In Escribe it doesn't show 4.2. Infact it will be easier to take a screenshot.

[VapingBad]

If those batteries worked before I would think it is a fault, but wait and maybe somebody else has come across this before and could help.

[VapingBad]

Seem a bit like this thread
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66406-topic/

[Majnu]

ok I slightly tightened that screw behind the foam and reinserted the battery and now the mod is goiing crazy 

It flickers; goes through watts and then flashes warranty service with some info. 

[VapingBad]

Going through the watts suggests it thinks a button is being pressed and the warranty service could be because of the battery levels are unbalanced.  Could one of the buttons be jammed or e-liquid got on the board?

I would get it exchanged or repaired, all tightening that screw should do is ensure the negative battery connection is good and it shouldn't cause anything else to go wrong. 

[Majnu]

ok I have just emailed the vendor, shall get it replaced. 

Thanks

[Alex faught]

If it started acting funny after you tightened the screw, there might be a connection problem in the ground wire further up the line.

[Majnu]

I think it is just safe to request a replacement tbh. I don't want to open it up when it should be covered under warranty. 

The company I bought mine from has requested a video. Don't see how it shows more than the pics but I created one for them anyway and directed them to this thread.

[Majnu]

Got a refund finally. Are there any guides on how to open it up as I would like to have a go at fixing it? I can see 6 screws at the battery sled area which removes the front surround around the screen and 2 small star screws at the bottom and top of the battery sled but then how do I proceed from there?

Thanks

edit - okay I remove the foam and the negative terminal screw and the sled slides out, but I guess needs desoldering to come away. 

[MikeTheVapeDude]

I've completely reground my Reuleaux, swapped ALL the stock connection wires with bigger ones and safely positioned the ribbon out of harms way.

On the DNA200 board, once the mod is taken apart, you should see two 510 connections on the top of the board. GRND is where the issue is (as Wismec decided a small screw was enough to ground an entire 200W board), I recommend you do what I did, take a piece of copper wire, 16-18awg, I used 16awg silver stranded, and solder it to grnd, and run it up to the bottom of the 510, and solder it directly to the metal piece of the 510. Now you have a much better, more secure ground. But yes, you will need a soldering iron, wire and general soldering/electronics know how. I do not recommend you just go pick up an iron and some solder and try to do this winging it. I took out the entire board and clamped it to a helping hands station doing this, the only thing I soldered inside the mod was the ground when I put the board back in, as I soldered it to the 510 which was obviously already inside the mod, as well as the 510 positive.

In order to take the sled out, you will need to remove the two starbit screws on the top and bottom of the mod, and all the screws (ground included) on the back of the sled. Then you just firmly, but carefully, pull it out. The way Wismec grounded it also evidently has something to do with the first balance port, which you'll have to resolder as well if you intend on charging batteries inside the mod. But take note, four of the screws inside the sled go to the faceplate, so when you take them off, make sure you're holding the plate so you don't lose the freefloating + and - buttons.



MAKE 100% SURE WHEN YOU GO TO PUT THE MOD BACK TOGETHER THE NEW AREAS YOU HAVE SOLDERED ARE OUT OF THE WAY OF CONTACTING/SHORTING --ANY-- OTHER PARTS, RATHER IT BE THE BOARD, THE WIRES OR THE CASE ITSELF. A SHORT COULD BLOW YOUR FUSE OR BEST CASE KEEP THE MOD FROM WORKING, OR WORST CASE CAUSE YOU TO SHORT AGAINST THE BATTERIES AND CAUSE A RUNAWAY EVENT. DO EVERYTHING I'VE STATED --AT YOUR OWN RISK.--


Redoing the ground on your own without experience could mess up the negative connection on the sled, cause a short, possibly ruin the board, as well as other things.


Also, grounding it to the metal threads of the 510 could only be done if you can get the wire positioned correctly AND solder it CLEANLY and SAFELY onto the 510, to where everything still fits, the connection is secure and nothing is at risk of shorting. If not, find another ground.