Reactor Wire

[lordmage]

Perhaps the forum guru's could help me nail down a good tcr and build for this wire.
according to the packaging it has a tcr of.00223/f_.004c.
i wrapped a couple single coils in the mutation v4 for tested. each one seemed a bit anemic using the tcr in ecribe under special. there is vaper but it is hit and miss. i have 31awg at 3.266 ohms/ft and some 28awg at 1.630ohms/ft. 

should i be aiming for a specific cold resistance or should i simply try matched duals at this point. 

each test coil was 3mm using a coil master the first came out to .607 and the second came in at .810 

[Spector NS5 RD]

lets say you know what 500°F feels like because that's the temp you vape at with other wires. i would bump up the TCR little by little until it feels like 500. this is assuming the tcr was too low to begin with and you have solid connections. nail down a single coil vaping great first then work up to duals.

a specific cold res is not important as long as you're within the dna's range.

[Jamie]

Lordmage - Before I make any suggestions, I feel it is only right to give you this disclosure. I own Biohmotive Products (Reactor Wire).

Personally I like the thinner gauges 28-31 they are more efficient for sure and my DNA-40 can get dual 28ga coils up to temp on my RTA's like Goblin mini.  I never go over 2.5mm on coil diameter with the thin ga's though.

I would just use the TCR .004/°C without a curve. The TCR curve for this alloy in vaping range is negligible. If you want you can download the CSV file for the TFR curve from Steam Engines Wire Wizard, but the feedback I've received is that it works as good or better using just the static TCR value. The recommended TCR values work well if you have good connections.

As for the atty, I had nothing but problems with the mutation V4 in TC until I did several modifications. On mine anyway the post screws didn't screw in deep enough to get a good bite on the wire especially the thinner gauges like you have. To get the V4 to work in TC with < 22 ga wire I milled about 1mm off the top of the screw blocks to get the screws to seat deeper & then I used a jewelers file on the bottom of the through holes to prevent cutting the wire. After that I could actually clamp the wire and make a reliable connection. Despite all the work it's still been relegated to the box of has beens because the flavor just isn't all that great. The V4 wasn't worth the effort IMO. The best builds I had on it were big coils running high wattage. That said, don't try big coils with 200w preheat unless your sure you have good connections. 200w can turn your coil into an arc welder if anything is loose.

With what you have on hand I'd suggest taking 30" of the 28ga, fold it in half, chuck the loose ends in a drill while holding firm tension on the other end (I just stick a small screwdriver though the loop end to hold while twisting, twist it till it changes in length from 15" down to 12-1/2" (doesn't have to be perfect), cut that in half, and make 2 x 8.5 wrap twisted coils on a 3mm mandrel. This will ohm out to +/-.19? depending how tight the twist.

With the DNA-200 you can use all 200w preheat and it will easily pull 120+ watts to hit temp on the V4 with the air open and juiced coils. You will not be disappointed in the clouds, but battery life is another story.
BTW that .19? build works great on a 4.2V mech while your waiting for your DNA's lipo to recharge

Here is a pic of the last build on my V4 before retirement. It was a power hungry cloud chucking beast of a build I call the compressor (twist-parallel-twist) 26ga 3.5mm Reactor Wire run on a 3s PWM or DNA-200
 

[Wayneo]

Holy smokes there Jamie. Now that's what I call coil porn. I don't know if I'd even wick that baby. Probably just show it off to my friends.