bdaines Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Basically I've tried a few different wires (Ti1, NiFe30, and 316L), all of which must be pushed over 500F, upwards of 550. Honestly, this has always been my complaint about DNA chips; needing to run them so close to the temp limit. I've tried various SS316L TCR profiles (Jaquith, SteamEngine, default). For the NiFe30 I am using SE's Dicodes wire (which is the wire I have). For reference I am running a NiFe30 build on a Dani Box (Dicodes wire on Dicodes mod) and it behaves as I believe it should. Warm, delicious, satisfying vape at 450. Essentially what I'm getting on the DNA at 545. SS behaves the same way. What gives?I've run the case analyzer, which has helped quite a bit with weird resistance values I was getting (cold ohms were far lower than live ohms or even the initial reading [which was the refinement not being calibrated to the case, which is now fixed]). So really what my question is... where can I find a CSV for NiFe30 or SS (SS preferred) that will give me similar results to the Dicodes TC?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 IDK, but can happily vape ss, ti & ni at 380 - 400 F with 100% PG liquid, it depends a lot on the build + attty and for some I may go up to 420 F, if I ignore the Dicodes comparison (I don't own one) I would advise upping your coil contact area, airflow and or wicking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Either way, none of those factors shouldn't matter since I'm taking the same atty and screwing it onto either mod. Net result is the same wattage, but vastly different temperatures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 They will be limiting to different wattages if the amount of vapour differs, it is the average temp of the coil and all of those factors determine how many watts are required to maintain the temp. Consider 10 wraps at 450 F will give more vapour then 8 wraps at 450 F everything else being equal, the same if you doubled the airflow or wicking you could run more watts and get more vapour at a given coil temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 I guess that makes sense. I didn't think about the different averaging that could be going on between the mods. I can try adding maybe one more wrap, as that's about all that will fit in the build deck. What SS profile are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 What is the ohm of your build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 The Evolv SS316 one, the wire I am using is SS316L from StealthVape, but it also worked well with a couple of samples I got elsewhere inc some 317L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 giz_60 said:What is the ohm of your build?.18 with the NiFe.34 with the SS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Not sure if this has anything to do with it. According to the specs on the Dani Box, it has an output voltage of almost double the 75. I have both a 75 & 250 devices. On the 75, 316L .13 at 425...switch it to the 250 & I have to turn it down to around 360 to get the same vape. I assume that the difference is in the outputs of the boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 It could do, you need to be less than or equal to 0.5 ohm for the full 75 W because of the 6.2 V max output voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 I guess it's also important to note that I'm running at 15 watts.[b]EDIT:[/b]I threw an extra wrap on and I'm down maybe 5 degrees on the setting that is "satisfying." At the end of the day I can achieve the vape I like, so it really doesn't matter. Numbers are stupid anyway. It just bugs me that I'm 60° away from the limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl12345 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 VapingBad said:They will be limiting to different wattages if the amount of vapour differs, it is the average temp of the coil and all of those factors determine how many watts are required to maintain the temp. Consider 10 wraps at 450 F will give more vapour then 8 wraps at 450 F everything else being equal, the same if you doubled the airflow or wicking you could run more watts and get more vapour at a given coil temp.I agree. The build makes a big difference, particularly the wicking. On many of my attys I need to trim the wick where it flares out at the end. Failure to do this causes it to bunch up and impede the juice flow. Each atty needs the wick trimmed differently. Most of them need a bit trimmed off the top edge of the wick as any folds in the wick where you tuck it down (for example with a Uwell Crown) will impede juice flow.With other attys such as a Billow V2 or 3, stuffing the juice channels or holes to thickly with wick causes it to wick poorly. For me, I vape consistently at 390F (using 0.25 - 0.5 ohm builds) across all three of my mods (Hcigar VT75 nano, Boxer DNA200/133, Releaux DNA200). If I wick poorly, then I need to up the temperature to as much as 450F - usually for me if I need to go much above 410F then it's an indication that I've wicked poorly and I rewick (wick should be snug - not loose and not tight). Pull your build apart and have a look at the wick - if it is not completely saturated with juice your wicking may be at fault.And in TC mode SS316L I up the watts way beyond what you're using - about 55W for a 0.25 ohm build and about 45W for a 0.5 ohm build with a preheat of 75W. This way it gets up to operating temperature much quicker and then the mod throttles back the wattage. At only 15W on a low ohm build like that you probably won't even achieve your target temperature before you release the fire button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 What is your mod resistance set at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 giz_60 said:What is your mod resistance set at?0.03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 That seems high...have you run a resistance test on the mod? I have several DNA mods & the highest is set at .006. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 giz_60 said:That seems high...have you run a resistance test on the mod? I have several DNA mods & the highest is set at .006.Not really. I need to find a slug. I "tested" it with a screwdriver. So probably wildly inaccurate. Didn't have any value out of the box though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 What kind of mod are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 giz_60 said:What kind of mod are you using?Relatively new stabwood box, so I don't think anyone's going to have values to share. It's MarkBugs wood box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Just for giggles...re-set the mod resistance value at about 0.005...upload to device & check your temp situation. I used a 510 install tool to check mine...https://www.motleymods.com/collections/510-connectors/products/510-connector-installation-tool-box-mod-part-diy-motley-mods-fast-shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 giz_60 said:Just for giggles...re-set the mod resistance value at about 0.005...upload to device & check your temp situation. I used a 510 install tool to check mine...https://www.motleymods.com/collections/510-connectors/products/510-connector-installation-tool-box-mod-part-diy-motley-mods-fast-shipping.What materials are your 510 made from? I've got SS threads and a silver plated positive. I'll give the lower values a try though to test the theory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Same here.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdaines Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Tried 0.005 and I get hardly any vapor now and no warmth at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz_60 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 You need to get a fairly accurate reading on you mod's internal resistance...running a jumper wire across the post on you build deck would be better than a screwdriver. Before I got the plugs, I took the base of an old carto, shorted it out with some solder...it did read slightly higher than the plug though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 That is very high, all mine are 0.003 - 0.004. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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