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SMY SDNA 75 reading 'too hot' even when not in use


kjr

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EDIT: fix found and posted in #6 below.



I have several DNA75 and 200 mods and have never seen this before.

I have about 8 Freemax tanks tanks that I use in rotation all using the same .15 NI200 coils running between 38-45 watts on all my mods.

The other day, after a few pulls, the mod read 'too hot'. The board shouldn't even have been much higher than ambient at that point.

So, I plugged into escribe and the board was reading over 180F and room temp displayed 110F. It was about 68F outside.

I tried soft reboot, nothing.
Hard reboot, nothing.

I was only successful in removing the error by updating the firmware (same version).

I then went to use it, and again, after 5-6 pulls, it read TOO HOT.

this has happened 4 times in a row now.

I am not fully in-tune with escribe and its far reaching capabilities, as Iv'e only used it for basic programming changes.


Does anyone have any knowledge of this, and a fix?
Or, based on this just continuing to occur, is the board faulty?

thanks,


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kjr said:

I have several DNA75 and 200 mods and have never seen this before.

I have about 8 Freemax tanks tanks that I use in rotation all using the same .15 NI200 coils running between 38-45 watts on all my mods.

The other day, after a few pulls, the mod read 'too hot'. The board shouldn't even have been much higher than ambient at that point.

So, I plugged into escribe and the board was reading over 180F and room temp displayed 110F. It was about 68F outside.

I tried soft reboot, nothing.
Hard reboot, nothing.

I was only successful in removing the error by updating the firmware (same version).

I then went to use it, and again, after 5-6 pulls, it read TOO HOT.

this has happened 4 times in a row now.

I am not fully in-tune with escribe and its far reaching capabilities, as Iv'e only used it for basic programming changes.


Does anyone have any knowledge of this, and a fix?
Or, based on this just continuing to occur, is the board faulty?

thanks,


welcome to forum kjr. you can easily get any DNA 75 to display "too hot" if you vaping it at 75w, with low ohm builds,with only 3-4 pulls (obviously this isn't the case with you). i can even get all of mine to do this. can you post a screenshot of DM while the device is sitting idle for 5-10 min, with the board and room temp boxes ticked? you may have a faulty temp sensor.
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unfortunately kjr, it seems one of the on-board temp sensors is out of calibration, possibly damaged. was the mod dropped or any type of liquid accidentally spilled on/into the device? only things i can suggest is trying exactly what you tried before, re-flashing the firmware and throw in a couple hard re-boots. other than those, there is no repair you can do yourself. if the device is still under warranty from the vendor you purchased it from, i would contact them first. if it's out of warranty from the vendor, there is always a one year warranty by Evolv, from the date of purchase, on the board itself (link is in my signature). just know, you may be asked to send in the board only. however, i have heard of Evolv taking in entire devices. if you have to go the Evolv route, and they only want the board sent in, i would check the board for juice and give it thorough cleaning with some iso alc giving it one more shot at life.

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Thank you for the info and suggestions.

I think the biggest challenge will be trying to find who/when I bought the mod. So many mods, so little receipts......

I have never dropped it. I cleaned the 510 (as suggested from initial searches on this matter). There was virtually no liquid on it.

I'll pull the board and inspect. I highly doubt I'll find any ingress of liquid, and go from there.

Thank you again, Chunky!


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Well,

After starting to disassemble the device, I think I found the problem!

I first noticed that the batt sled screws were kinda loose. Pulled that out.

Found the board is actually completely epoxy coated for protection (good), but no mounting screws on the board, as it's glued in, so not easily serviceable.

So, after inspection, I put it back together and tightened the sled screws back down.
Since then, with considerate use this weekend, the unit appears to be working just fine.
I'm stoked!

Not sure how those screws play a part in the chassis conductivity..........but all seems well now.

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The mounting points (board to case) does provide heat transfer. Of coarse with a plastic case that's not happening. The board once the sled is removed the board should be held in place by one screw that sort of hides under the 510's ground wire. On some DNA75 mods the mounting screws can provide ground for one or both the battery connection and 510 so only two or three wires are used to build it.
Oh, BTW..great news

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