David247 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Hi Whats the reason why the board becomes dead ?I have had two now while vaping no errors messages.I put the same atty on my sx mini m class and work fine so it cant be that.This is my mod 36 hours of vaping gutted https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65689-topic/?do=findComment&comment=889338Thanks David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 David,For your board mounting, at the button opposite of the battery + is there anything between that metal support and the board? The board is not designed to have a mounting point on that side, so I would try to insulate it. Also, what are you using to hold the screen?Right now the two biggest issues we are seeing with the VAST majority of returns is one, soldering too cool, for too long and heating the entire board, or soldering too long due to not pre-tinning wires and pre-flowing solder onto pads. I like to solder very hot, very fast in order to avoid heating any surrounding areas. Two, and this is the big one so far, is people using all manner of glues, epoxies, etc. Anything solvent based is a BIG no no especially.Anything other than an electronics grade epoxy or electronic grade RTV/Silicone can and will compromise your board and its components.Electronics grade RTV/Silicone is likely everyone's best bet as electronics grade glue and epoxy is very expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David247 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hi Nick thanks for your reply so what your saying is this mount shouldn't be earthed to the case ? The screen is held in automotive double sided tape and I pre-tinned the wires and pre-flowing solder onto pads Regards David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hi David, you should be fine earthing to the case as long as nothing can short to the case.From the new angle you just posted I see that what I had previously though was some kind of pad or platform milled into the box to support the board is actually the USB port. That all looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Also, I cannot really tell how many wires are coming off of the 4 pin balance tap. Do you have all 4 wires for 3 2 1 GND ran, or did you bridge 3 to B+ and GND to B-?This is something we are seeing people do a lot, and it should not be done due to voltage/sag drop on the B +/- wires under load when firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David247 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Thanks for your help Nick nothing has shorted I no I'm not the greatest of solders just like to no where it's gone wrong before I buy another board m Thanks David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 That is a great picture, would you mind doing the same for the other side of the board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David247 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Here you go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 I can see a couple of potential issues with the first picture, there loose strands from the black balance wire and the positive battery wire is over 3 vias (look like holes in the board, but connections that connect the different layers of circuit board) that are know to cause a problem if the solder here contacts them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David247 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Hi thanks for all the help, as you can see in this pic the positive is sitting above the board no touching Regards David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 These are the vias David, sorry I can't see from your picture. Have a look at this thread https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67186-topic/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David247 Posted October 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 You can just make them out in this pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 I see, it is hard to get the photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havensal Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 I've had two boards die myself. Both at around a month old. The first just quit mid vape, and the replacement made a pop and then died. I looked for any shorts or bad solder joints. No errors or messages. It would be nice to get a quick note with the replacement to let me know what the issue was. Best I can tell neither were user error, but I would like to know for sure so I can prevent the error from reoccurring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 Nick said:David,For your board mounting, at the button opposite of the battery + is there anything between that metal support and the board? The board is not designed to have a mounting point on that side, so I would try to insulate it. Also, what are you using to hold the screen?Right now the two biggest issues we are seeing with the VAST majority of returns is one, soldering too cool, for too long and heating the entire board, or soldering too long due to not pre-tinning wires and pre-flowing solder onto pads. I like to solder very hot, very fast in order to avoid heating any surrounding areas. Two, and this is the big one so far, is people using all manner of glues, epoxies, etc. Anything solvent based is a BIG no no especially.Anything other than an electronics grade epoxy or electronic grade RTV/Silicone can and will compromise your board and its components.Electronics grade RTV/Silicone is likely everyone's best bet as electronics grade glue and epoxy is very expensive.I couldn't find any "electronic grade" RTV is Sugru (Silicon putty) OK? I built this DNA40 350 days ago and it has heavy use with no problems, the Sugru is the black stuff in the photo.Edit: I found some Servisol Silicone Adhesive Sealant which seems to be OK, but would like to know about Sugru's suitability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Another thing to be careful of is the flux you choose to use, NEVER use soldering paste sold in the plumbing section of hardware stores unless you damn sure it's safe to use on boards! Most of these contain Zinc Chloride flux, it is corrosive and conductive and it will continue to keep corroding. It's used in soldering copper pipes for plumbing, definitely not something you ever want to use on boards!Zinc chloride - Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaAs a metallurgical fluxZinc chloride has the ability to react with metal oxides (MO) to give derivatives of the formula MZnOCl2.[32] This reaction is relevant to the utility of ZnCl2 solution as a flux for soldering â it dissolves oxide coatings exposing the clean metal surface.[32] Fluxes with ZnCl2 as an active ingredient are sometimes called "tinner's fluid". Typically this flux was prepared by dissolving zinc foil in dilute hydrochloric aciduntil the liquid ceased to evolve hydrogen; for this reason, such flux was once known as "killed spirits". Because of its corrosive nature, this flux is not suitable for situations where any residue cannot be cleaned away, such as electronic work.Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 VapingBad said:I couldn't find any "electronic grade" RTV is Sugru (Silicon putty) OK? I built this DNA40 350 days ago and it has heavy use with no problems, the Sugru is the black stuff in the photo.Edit: I found some Servisol Silicone Adhesive Sealant which seems to be OK, but would like to know about Sugru's suitability.That's a damn fine looking piece of custom work there my man. Well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VapingBad Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 Thanks Cactus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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