RicketyPumpkin

Thank you so much for this! 3 days of forum hopping and everyone is acting like it's this huge secret and its always referred to as the "material mod" but never delve into what the heck they are modding in the custom material. I did figure out it was because the v5 cannot get to 200f in two seconds, therefore failing TSM check which kicks us back to wattage. I also tried to create a fake mat profile to trick it but no matter what I do, that first point always has to stay at -100? i can create and move+delete any other points but that -100 degree starting point , I can't change its temp. I know I. probably sound like a fool here but could you please walk me through which point (obv needs to be at 200f right?) and the extreme difference in how TCR values are used vs the single value, linear curve Arctic Fox uses. I have those so dialed, sure the temp on screen might be +- 50f using a crude laser gun infrared thermometer but it doesnt matter since the vaporization is perfect. I know about the seedmass limited v5 and Hyperion? that he used like 5 platinum probes to create a 3D curve for the dna, I'm not looking to get my hands that dirty, however if i need to get a thermocouple probe and display unit, they aren't much for a singular probe with controller on Amazon. I'd want to see the thing even fire in tc at all before i dump more money on top of the cost of this therion 2 that is literally just a very fancy VW device for me right now. Could you give an example of how to plot the point that'll keep me in TC? I'd be more than happy to invest in getting accuracy as good as possible after I can at least use the device. Thanks for the quick replies man.

Correct, the XL cups in the newer base. I'm also having the exact same issues with my lightning quest. it's kiling me having to take out my 5 year old wismec or espion when I just bought a Therion 2. I know people have massive success using 250c chips with these but They also probably know the work around that seems to be kept so hidden.

I'm in the exact same situation as the OP. Using a multi material crucible style cup with inlaid heater ((3D heating), inlay is throughout the sidewalls & bottom of the crucible). The inlaid heating material is tungsten strip (I'm not sure it's a exact dimensions but that shouldn't matter for tricking the device). Then for the leads, Uses a tungsten high-temp slurry solder joining to nickel leads to the tungsten. I have seen this "workaround" Mentioned dozens of times across dozens of forums yet I cannot find a single person that actually says what this work around is? I desperately need to find out what this is I have a general idea since I've heard a summary of what it achieves I just am very new to DNA devices, literally just got my first one last week. An LVE Therion 2 DNA250c, Which I purchased specifically to fire these cups since before that I was using the comparably, wildly inaccurate and inconsistent Arctic Fox and even Red Panda on a dozen different devices. Those at least, stayed in TC mode but Let's just say they could be more than 100 degrees off target. So, it's pretty disappointing to say the least to spend almost $200 and see some of the most accurate temperature control in the world, yet not be able to use it on the atomizer I bought the device for simply because the element heats up 2 or so seconds slower than the FW allows. For reference, the heater can take a mfr recommended maximum of 38 Watts but preferably would like to keep it at 37 since I don't like running things at their ceilings and has a manufacturer recommended TCR value of between 180 and 200. The 180 value was on the prototype model of this same atomizer and the production unit, I have both by the way, recommends a 200 TCR in the official documentation it came with. Since I've tried 38 watts, admittedly even 40 watts for a very short time, it still could not make temp quick enough but it's absolutely meant to be fired using TC they just were primarily designed to be used for Arctic Fox & Other single TCR linear value devices, not multipoint or curve TFR which the DNA uses. I've quickly outgrown. It gets old quick running a bunch of five to 10 year old mods that cost 20 to 50 dollars so they feel cheesy and are horribly overpriced and almost impossible to get these days since they've been discontinued for so long. TLDR: I've given the specs and values for the crucible I'm trying to get to stay in temperature control with my DNA 250C is there any possible way you can point me in the direction of finding this material tweak that allows me to stay in TC mode while firing atomizers that don't hit 200F within two seconds? Please and thank you very much in advance

@James Hey, just curious, but has just about all development ended for the color boards? between no service packs in more than a few months and also hearing the CEO of Evolv quoted saying that you're turning your attention to firstly dry cannabis, then I guess expand further into concentrates (Cricket 2? hopefully not we get a less restrictive price) seems Evolv's shifting focus to new ventures. Nothing bad about it, I just hope there are enough people to continue with the boards we know & love, while going after these new projects. I personally don't use my LVE Therion 2 DNA250C for vape juice, it's my portable dab rig. I wanted a cricket so bad but the logistics of its price made it a nonsensical purchase. Especially when I have well. over 1k in 510 threaded pieces and parts. I know most boards are older now, minus a couple. Will the 250C get anymore love you think? I appreciate your time