RicketyPumpkin

The "Protect Pod" and corresponding sensitivity is self explanatory. It means it is the adjustment for the conditions in which the device will deem the pod in danger and take necessary action to protect it. Realistically, you can think of it as sensitivity for the auto dry hit protection. High/low sensitivity. It is not the same as fill pod warning on The One.

In short, this scenario you explained should never occur in the first place on The One. It give no fill pod msgs unless the pod is legitimately in need of filling.

Honestly they aren't very comparable in the direct sense, as oxva has a design language, as does Evolv; That really becomes apparent when you go hands on with The One. It's the type of device that any "Lay" person could intuitively figure out with literally a few presses of the two buttons. There are pop up prompts or hints as to what it thinks you're trying to do, and will help. For instance, Replay activation is double pressing the lower button. If you press and hold or even just press it once, but not that second time, you'll see a little arrow pointing to the button and saying "×2" telling you that you need to hit it twice to activate then you get visual confirmation via a nice bright green sequence on the LED bar. Every other setting is acceptable by double pressing the fire or upper button opening the scrolling menu system. Also, since this was fully made by our guys, there's no broken wording or double meaning mess that came with the oxva. It's also vastly more intentful with it's warning and error screens.It won't just tell at you to "Fill Pod" and when it eventually does remind you that you should probably refill, in my case, it's always been correct. I have yet to catch a single unwarranted message since release. Nothing to worry about, anyone regardless of knowledge or know how, will be able to easily use this device even without documentation. Also, I'm sure documentation will accompany the US release of it. It's kind of the magic of this whole premise...the device does all the decision making based off your settings. It's very much a set and forget pod & absolutely nothing goes wrong because the device won't allow it to go wrong. It catches problems before the issue is even perceived by us so I recommend keeping the comparison to the other model to a minimum. Let it release domestically and see what happens.

Not sure how I miss this for about a whole year😅 anyway, 1s1p equates to a single cell, so exactly what I was claiming the whole time. I'm not trying to be a dick or rude but this just goes to show there are others that do have knowledge. It just felt like there was immediate doubt about my claim despite my insistence of the case. Anyway it's water under the bridge now. Again I just barely am replying because of the tone you take. I'm not sure why you're seemingly always so agitated but me or any other forum member don't deserve to be talked down to from your pedestal. We are all human I am not better than you, you are no better than me it would be cool if we could just all get along I think that would make this form much more welcoming for the unseasoned users. Quite a few acquaintances of mine are too intimidated to even post here fearing the response they'll get, or more specifically the burn or embarrassment. That should not be the case in a public health forum. I hope going forward, we can treat each other with mutual respect whether you would rather not engage with me or not, we're both here, and we're both not going anywhere. So why not just put our differences aside and treat each other as equal human beings? Not just me I mean every member of this forum. I'd appreciate you considering it.

Can I ask, why on Earth would you put the pod in a scenario like that on purpose? What you described was purposely putting it in a high stakes scenario where your purposely way outside of pod specs and what it was designed to operate at. If you close the airflow on any pod system with anti-burn and set the wattage Way high, there is a limit to what technology can fix on the fly for you. I don't even believe you got a bad pod, I believe you're essentially testing the limits of these pods and it's not going so well for you. Precisely why we don't recommend doing that. As for the messages you're getting for error; This is the great thing about DNA boards they have a tool called escribe, and if you're knowledgeable enough, within a scribe and then again within theme designer you can change the circumstances in which a message will pop up saying whatever you'd like it to say. Now of course that's a highly advanced change for a user to make but completely doable. I'm not recommending you do it in fact I'm recommending you stop trying to find the limit of the pod and just enjoy the device and I'm sure anti-burn will work just fine but if you insist, I have provided you with a solution that fits your wants.

I may be able to answer a bit more of these questions in addition to what Wayneo has already provided you. As he said, no pressure related activities can be achieved since the hardware is not there in the One. Yes it has full stealth mode, no LEDs no screen nothing. Just black however if you want to change anything including going up or down a single Watt, you must take it out of stealth. That's not to say it's a bad stealth implementation. Again, no pressure sensor so any reflex like activities or settings are a no-go. The one was not meant to be a reflex 2, nor was it meant to be a continuation of the oxva style device, it is its own new category of pod vape completely and totally made hardware and software by Evolv. In my opinion, which may or may not mean anything to you, it's absolutely worth buying even if you have both the reflex and oxva pro 2 DNA. It offers a few things neither of those can do that really set it apart. As I've stated earlier, hopefully Evolv gets the necessary interest from us suppliers to justify a US release, IMO, it's a completely new animal far surpassing any pod system on the market right now there is not a single other pod system out of upwards of over 60 that I own that I reach for outside of the One. You can't find a specific thread or section for it because it is not released in the US, it's only natural to not have a dedicated section for it because little to no domestic residents will own it as of now. I don't proceed there ever being a section for it unless it happens to release domestically.

Rightfully so. Let's just hope some US Distros jump on board if that is whats causing it to not be released in the US yet. I assumed it was on a schedule,but Wayneo would know more about that than I. so, if he says its lack of interest from distribution in the US, that would be pretty unfortunate. The US would be missing out. Hopefully it gets released with some time. Not like its been listed on the US website for that long yet anyway. One could always order from stealthvape if they wanted it bad enough, its not a RIDICULOUS amount more for vat, though that shipping is a bit scary😬

I guess its true its really all perspective. Personally, the pod QC is integral and Evolv hands down, makes the better of the better of the two pods (especially if you are a pod vaper like myself, and don't use Boro's or the like). We'll of course, have to wait and see when it comes to the US,but as someone that exclusively uses open pod systems,i personally am of the opinion there are many welcome changes compared to the OXVA.I imagine pods, flavor and all around integration are going to surpass the pro 2 by large. There are differences for sure, it just depends on how high your expectations are. It wouldn't make too much sense for Evolv to spend X amount of money to develop what they have already made. While changes may not be astronomical, no personal electronics, including phones have made huge strides in recent years.we are reaching somewhat of a technological plateau. That doesnt mean they aren't improving, just maybe not at the rate they were 5 years ago. Still, I'd definitely pick one up when they release here, im sure other pod system vapers will appreciate the things that differentiate the One from the Pro 2.This is just my opinion though.

My advice, read,read and read some more here. Everything that has to do with replay and we 250c have extensively been covered. Can I just ask why you are making a theme at only a few days ownership of your first DNA? Themes are no joke and make or break the device. Download a top rated theme with replay confirmed working,and enjoy. If set up properly, you will not get burnt hits

I still have my Darwin! Though you are correct that I wouldn't post about it since it sits on a stand with a glass enclosure. It's very special to me being my first non analog copy of an electronic vaping device. It's the device that actually got me fully off combustion!I remember saving for months to have the expendable cash for the Darwin, but gosh am I glad I wasn't too cheap to pay the hefty tag it came with back then. No telling if I'd be off analog or not today!

I can confirm that I have gotten 5 replacements from Evolv

I'm sorry but this is getting kind of comical at this point. I have the device in my hand as we speak you don't own it, I see you comment on every post that gets posted here no matter what section it's under you're Generally skeptical and seem to be uncomfortable with being wrong in any situation so if a full charge voltage of 4.15 does not mean its single cell then it must mean you think it's multiple cells in parallel fitting inside of something this small? Otherwise where's the logic in your statement? Why don't you ask Brandon as well? Or you want me to forward you my emails with them too? Dude you gotta dial it back you're a volunteer mod not evolv's police officer.

Or you could just not be skeptical of every person's post in the first place when it's not even relevant to you then I wouldn't have had to post anything else that would have been the quickest. Please do! I appreciate it just make sure you report back to us when you get your answer I also have the emails as well so....

The OE batteries stock full voltage is set to be 4.15 volts and soft cut off at 3.2. That is the original batteries original config from the factory pulled straight from escribe. That should prove that it is indeed a single cell, As well as give you an idea of the voltages that you asked about.

Not trying to be rude at all her,e but you literally stated yourself you don't own the device so why are you demanding that I go out of my way to do that for you? If you are suspecting I am full of crap about anything I've stated you're more than welcome to ask Jacob R yourself. He knows who I am and will confirm whatever you're looking for. This just seems a bit odd and not something I'm into when I'm being questioned for simply trying to get conversation about the device going in a forum devoid of any conversation about it

Being that I haven't gotten the data sheet from Jacob yet, also the fact that mine is still very much taken apart and has only been lightly tested I'm not exactly comfortable releasing the specs or even recommending an upgrade yet, that's why I gave that little disclaimer in the OP about people should probably stick with the OE battery which I immediately was able to find through visual Google searching it's a 970 milliamp hour lipo. The issue comes with me not knowing what the precise minimums are so I would like to avoid any specs or things like that until I'm able to check out that data sheet that I was told I would be given. I can tell you that I personally went as big as I possibly could with output headroom being the main concern for me. There is absolutely zero information about anyone ever performing a battery replacement on a cricket so I'm in entirely uncharted territory here 😅

I would love to see a three cell Try and be crammed into the tiny channel that is C&C milled out for the battery in this device it's physically not possible for a 3 cell to remotely fit in there

Yes I mentioned in my post that I was in direct contact with evolv, I've been emailing with Jacob back and forth and he gave me quite a deal of info on the battery of the cricket it is not 3S and I also have taken my battery completely out of mine so I can visually confirm. He was supposed to have given me the datasheet , but I suppose he got busy so I've got the gist of it and so far everything's working fine.

While I understand there's not a whole ton of us cricket owners out there I do know there are enough of us to at least have a small little part of the forum. Yeah there may not be much to talk about when it comes to this device but there definitely are things to talk about. It's more than a few years old now so I'm sure everyone's batteries are no longer giving out the same length of time between charges that it used to, I've already confirmed battery replacements are indeed something we can do and I am personally in the mix of performing one myself on my own device I have consulted with Evolv About the process and have Gotten some great guidance on what needs to go in there add a minimum to ensure safe reliable usage for years to come. I personally opted to actually go ahead and slightly upgrade the capacity of my replacement instead of going with the exact same cell that's in the cricket right now. Battery technology has come a long way, single cell lipo pouches have increased in capacity while decreased in size making something like an 1100 MAH not just a pipe dream anymore though I don't recommend changing the specs of your cell unless you are well versed in small electronics repair. Let me just remind everyone that the crickets insides are exposed very much conductive billet stainless steel, One wrong sneeze during installation and you could have yourself in a sticky situation. Also, it must remain a single cell as the cricket operates on single cell voltage. I am supposed to be getting the batteries data sheet from An employee I've been talking with so I can't yet divulge what the minimum output must be or any of those other precautionary and safety parameters of the battery so I do not recommend performing one at this moment. Again I am doing mine of my own will and accept the fact that I may very well smoke my crickets board though I'm sure it'll be fine so long as I don't short the battery on the milled insides 😅 So now that I've contributed a post, there are other things to talk about regarding this such as what's everyone found as their sweet spot between wattage, heat up time and temp?

James, the international link for that beta SP66 is broken and downloads the previous SP57 that we've already had access to the US link and OXVA work fine though. I inspected the code and I did get the correct link for the international version of SP66 so I installed it that way but I'm sure the majority of people here don't know how to go about inspecting code elements of websites to find the link themselves. <a href="https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP57_INT_ServicePack.exe" rel="external nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_INT_ServicePack.exe</a>

@James so I submitted a TS ticket but haven't gotten a response In almost a month. I'm looking for something that's likely extremely simple for you to help me with. If you recall, I'm the person that created a functioning android APK that mirrors 75% of escribe functionality, sans the proprietary and illegal to copy it reverse engineer flashing of firmware (service packs) you had extended an invite to a specific program to me if that rings a bell, if not I only have two tickets on my username and I'm referring to the 250c ticket you graciously helped me with. So I found myself to be the proud new owner of a unbeatable price, sealed & in box cricket. No issues or anything & reports 100% genuine and functions as it should I've fully integrated it into my APK and now can alter cricket parameters and live log albeit with a slow but unavoidable polling rate. I've literally nailed every possible serial query and command up until the cricket. I'm at a loss for finding the commands for heat up time reading+writing as well as triggering a calibration. The heat up adjustment I'm not positive is possible as it falls more under the fw category and is not accessible through device monitor, however calibration is, therefore per your own statement,there must be a serial command to trigger it. Feeling like helping a fellow coding enthusiast out with that calibration query? haha 😅 Also could you confirm if ramp time is a no go for setting via interface?it seems like it should be as simple as changing the wattage level or target temperature. My final question is hardware related.my cricket after Opening, was configured back in 2022! So it's battery was always questionable. I'd rather not push a almost 4 year old lithium, Ive found the same part number battery replacement with exact rating match.the swap seems ridiculously easy, is there any mating implemented where the board will reject any user replaced battery? It'd be great to know beforehand so I don't void warranty if so. You guys never did come out with a batt replacement program or just sell a replacement so while my cricket has under 500 puffs on it, it needs around 4 recharges a day which is highly abnormal.any help on any of these would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻

Have you ever considered an etsy business making these? I believe you would have quite the customer base, I'm sure mostly us DNA owners,especially those with too many mods to find space for, would love this. Including pod mods, I'm close to 45 devices now so the travel bag would be so handy for me. A couple of them lol. If you're not interested in you making money off this, would you ever consider making a tutorial on how you create these? even a small one for my Therion 2 -250c with power bank tutorial would be awesome. Either way these are so cool man, congratulations on on great execution for the a great idea.

@aMirS would you mind posting the links for these cases? that's easily the coolest accessory I've ever seen for a modern day full size mod. Are those tiny displays actually showing charging a battery at 1a? or are the just V displays? Thanks in advance

If I understand you correctly, you want to restore the firm "click" you had when you originally bought your 250C? What mod is it first off? Also, how deep are you looking to get into this? There is a membrane between the physical buttons you touch & the actual hardware buttons on the 250C, I can't speak to every manufacturer, but for Lost Vape, this is the case. Both the exterior buttons and membrane can be replaced on mine for example, since they both have removable rubber components. If. The boards clickiness is spongy now, you could solder new buttons but you'd have to source them and be confident in your soldering. Those options aside, you're "most complete fix"6 option would be to just spend the $80 USD and replace the entire 250C, board, screen, buttons, everything. If your buttons are starting to feel mushy, I can't imagine that device is very new so I would think the screen and a few other things wouldn't mind being replaced either 😅 Depending on how long you've had the mod, it's likely the board side buttons, as silicone /rubber can stay firm for years and years if taken care of but the board buttons work off the same principle as a membrane, but are less forgiving than the latter due to the material being an alloy and the water resistance built-in. A donor board would be great for you, I have a few and haven't regretted it once.