skatingnobody

Hey all! Not sure if this belongs here, but I’d figure y’all would know best. I have two LV Thelema Solo 100C’s. the first one, eventually the error message “Check atomizer” just kept continually popping up, and it no longer measures ohms on any tank. That one is is picture #1 disassembled… I have no actual idea, but it seems like that the shielding/sheathing of the black wire has slowly becomes exposed to bare wire over time. This may be the cause, but I’ve also dropped it many a times. I’ve looked/gotten into the actual board as much as I could without risking breaking the plastic carrier house holding the chip, and all seems fine on that end. Photo #1 and #2 are the second Thelema 100C I got to replace that one. Currently, the screen is extremely dark and just barely visible… but all is fine other than that. When I put light pressure on the bottom half of the fire button, without actually depressing the fire button, the screen just blacks out completely. I’ve been through Reddit and it seems that the cause is the silicone button shielding beneath the physical button but above the physical switch is actually being depressed into the screen’s video cable, causing that issue, but I’m also not quite sure. Since the #1 100C, I can take it apart successfully. So, my question/s is/are: What would be the most economical solution? (I haven’t got any electronics tools like soldering irons) I’ve already got a cheaper Geekvape Solo 3 headed my way, but should I: Save up for the electronics tools to re-solder the 510 connection on 100C #1 to it’s wires to check if it’s not the board itself? Should I attempt to use the functional screen in the 100C #1 as a donor for the 100C #2? Or should I disassemble #2 and cut away a small part of the silicone switch shielding so that way it no longer interferes with the video/screen cable? Thank you folks

I've got faith in the chip. I know that TC will work, it's just a matter of figuring out why and then troubleshooting from there (which, by the way, huge thank you for the help) That was a lot of new information though... I'll have to give a proper response this weekend after I set up a testing protocol between the two atty's I've got to isolate as many variables as possible. I can address some points right now, though. #1: Generally a very tight but relaxed MTL airflow, on 55mg nic-salts right now. I have to get a bottle of freebase because it is strong, yes. #3: I am actually running the "Vape boy 3000 polished theme (vertical)"... Does the theme matter if the settings are identical? or should I be running all of these tests on stock? And the actual temperature I vape at doesn't matter to me, I just want a satisfying vape regardless of the temperature. Even if I set the temperature limit lower, it still undershoots the setting by about the same margin. And I do realize that the temp protection is designed to keep you from going over the limit, but instead of just showing the temp protect message and letting me continue to vape at/near the limit, all power to the atty is cut off the second the temp protection kicks in. I've been messing around with everything and I can tell you that despite stable ohms reading from the atomizer analyzer, some puffs will just undershoot the setting entirely, but other puffs the temp-protect kicks in as soon as I press the fire button, preventing me from vaping... I'll have another write up for you this following Saturday night and/or Sunday morning

As sure as rain it's 316SSL, unless I was sold something mislabeled... I was using the same roll about six years ago on a KFL2019 with an Asmodus Colossal and it was working near perfectly (even if not "accurate" persae). Still spaced, no hotspots And as far as the atomizer stability goes, it seems rock solid. For both the KFX and KFL19. And yes! I do. I've got three diagnostics screens for you. #1 is the KFX in watts, #2 is KFL19 in Watts, #3 is the KFL19 in TC

So my setup has changed, but the same issue, plus more... Still not reaching temp, but the vape feels insanely hot compared to what the diagnostics are showing me. 2mm ID - 316SSL - 9/8 wraps - reading at around 0.85ohms And mostly I'm just getting instantly temp-protected as well as having all the power to the atomizer cut off when the temp protection kicks in.

First time forum goer and first time DNA-owner here... So the gist is that I'm running a Kayfun X on a Thelema Solo DNA 100C. Coil: 2.5mm ID, 8/9 wraps, spaced, 316SSL 28g, reading as 1.04 ohms. Settings: TCR 0.00088, 13.5W, 400F, no preheat and punch 1. The TC is working, but in the average 3-6s pulls I take, the temperature is topping out in the 380's. It's stepping down my 13.5W to 11.1W and keeping a consistent temp, but in the 380's, and not the set 400F. Not sure if there's a setting or something I'm missing, but I'd like to figure out how I can get my atty to get up-to-temp quickly... Even if that means using preheat and/or punch, just not sure how to, or the best settings. thank you to any one that may be able to help at all