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BigMalaka

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  1. Actually the one thing I would change is if you could make the battery meter easier to read. I would use something similar to the others with the larger size.
  2. Settled on this one for my 100C. Does the job and easy to read, thank you.
  3. First off gotta applaud the creator for all the work that went into this. Tried it out on my new Hyperion but just wasn't for me. Too busy - just too much crammed into a little screen for my eyes. Found myself straining to make out the smaller details. Thank you though for making it.
  4. Measured the space available in the base of Semovar. While it's identical to the Infinity on the outside, there's even less room inside, due to the way the tubes are secured to the base. There also isn't enough room in the section of the Semovar housing the existing chip. Disappointing. I can't tell you how much nicer the Semovar's build quality is. It's heavy but everything from the battery door to the threading of the tubes is on a whole other level. Too bad...would've been nice.
  5. Thanks! PMMA is just plexiglass, so I practiced on a 2 liter Coke bottle first and noticed it was really simple. If anyone else finds themselves in the same boat, the biggest thing to be careful of is scratching the Ti metal strip.
  6. I received the Infinity mod and took a close look at the Semovar, side by side. The Semovar is exponentially the better built mod. They both have a very, very similar layout with one difference, so I think it's possible. The Semovar has the same access points in the base's panel but it's metal vs. the Infinity, which is plastic. The metal tubing and battery button are so much nicer on the Semovar and there's no plastic to speak of. Really a gorgeous, solid, well made mod...they definitely don't make 'em like the used to The main difference between the two is that there is a small cut-out on one of the tubes for a 2 digit display screen on the Semovar. The Infinity has a large cut-out on its base for the DNA30 screen and the Semovar doesn't have anything there, except screws in the same places. The Semovar also appears to have more room in its base for a chip, so I'm going to take measurements to see what I can fit in there. At a minimum, I could transplant the same chip - but I really think I can do better. The big question for me (highly experienced vaper, highly inexperienced builder) is how I'd cut a window into the panel of the Semovar. I also need to figure out how to patch the hole left by the original chip's display. I only want to do this if I know for sure it'll turn out perfect. If anyone's familiar with the Semovar's material and can give me any guidance on how to tackle this (i.e. - tools I'd need, etc.), I'd really appreciate it. Thanks
  7. Thanks, I did reach out to them when I posted here and they told me it was a design decision (head scratcher lol). That's all I could get out of them, so I pulled the trigger this weekend. Super simple with the Dremel...just a few seconds and no need to polish, it came out fine. Now I can actually use it
  8. I just received a new DNA75C based mod that I purchased from a U.K. site that needs some further modification. It was an expensive impulse buy, which appears that I didn't properly vette ahead of time. The case material itself is polished PMMA and houses the firing button within a metal strip. The edges of the case are flush with that top metal strip all the way from the firing button (in the back), up to the ring (in the front) where the 510 pin is housed. Beginning where the ring containing the 510 pin is housed, a lip rises up (approx. 2mm) above the metal strip. So on the front of the mod, the rounded front section of the clear case where you screw in your atomizer isn't flush with the top of the mod. As you can imagine, this prevents any atomizer that can't fit cleanly inside that 2mm lip from screwing in low enough to make contact with the 510 pin. I believe this translates to anything greater than 24mm. I'd like to trim this ridge down to make it flush, but don't want to damage the mod. I was envisioning using a Dremmel or sander of some kind, but have never worked with this material before. So, I wanted to run it by the builders here for advice before I proceed. I've included a link to a video, clearly showing the excess lip / ridge and a link to the mod website for reference. Also attached pic. Appreciate any help/advice anyone can provide. It's a really slick device otherwise, but very depressing in its current state. Thanks IMG_3043.HEIC
  9. Thank you and yes, I noticed the measurements in the sheets under footprint. I just wasn't sure how much room I'll have inside that mod. I've never seen one of these before today. I love that design...really stands out, even today.
  10. Hi, Is anyone here familiar with this mod? I came across a new in box, Infinity Insider Mini, which I just purchased that runs a DNA60 off of a single 18650 (maximum configuration). The design is very reminiscent of an old Svoemesto double barrel styled mod I purchased almost a decade ago now, called the Semovar (with hybrid connector). It was based on a Nivel chip, which only allows a maximum of 15w. I had originally planned on trying to change out the board in the Svoemesto, but I honestly wanted to preserve it as a collector's item. These things was pretty epic back in the day lol. Then, I came across the Infinity. My daily vape is a Lost Vape Triade, MK RTA with dual 316SS coils, which I just run in Watt Boost mode at 65w. I've tried TC on every iteration of DNA based devices over the years on every coil material and was never a fan. Especially with the older DNA chips, TC mode just never lived up to the hype for me. I also never had issues with my SS coils in wattage mode. So my concern with the DNA60 chip in the Insider Mini is that its max output will be 5w short of my desired power level. I'd like to know if it's possible to change over to a DNA75 or better, but don't have the mod yet. Is it possible to fit anything larger inside and also change out the chip without damaging the mod? Thanks, Nick
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