Dunder Mifflin

Did you get it wet, by chance? The reason I ask is because I just recently got mine wet, and it started to fire by itself. It did so beyond the 5 second cut off, and would not fire at all after drying it off. I took mine apart, months ago, to do the pin short trick to get it to light up again as it had went into a soft brick mode. I'd recommend against doing this if it is still under warranty, because it will void the warranty. I had bought it secondhand off of the guy at my local vape shop that was quitting, so I wasn't worried if I voided it due to getting it for so cheap. Anyway, I took it apart again last night to rub the board down with alcohol to make sure I got rid of any moisture that could be causing a short. What I found was that something on the board had gotten so hot that it had leaked whatever "fluid" that was inside of it out on to the board, and it was covering quite a few solder points. I'm guessing it was a capacitor, but I'm not completely sure. Nothing stuck out as obvious. After reassembling the device, I tried to fire it again. I had the purple light of death. An interesting find was that I could connect it to my computer, launch the escribe software, go to device monitor, and use the on-screen buttons (revealed by hitting the tiny button on the left of the "puff" button) to unlock the device. The device's button did the same thing as yours, but by clicking on and holding down the on-screen fire button, I was able to puff on it just like I would normally with the device's button. Nothing I did fixed it, no matter how many times I cleaned it, rebooted it, or pressed the buttons. It held me over until I could get by the shop to grab me another today. Luckily, I had enough points built at the vape shop to take some of the sting out of a new one, but I still dropped close to $50. It wasn't ideal, but neither is doing without it whenever you want it! I'm going to keep messing with the other one to see if I can fix it, but I don't have a lot of confidence in this repair. If it's not a bad component on the board, then it's a bad trace within it. I'll probably try to reflow it in the oven or with a heat gun. That's probably way more than you wanted to hear, but that's what I've found to be the cause of mine. Hope that helps some.

11w seems to be the sweet spot for me on the 1 ohm pods. I have changed my settings back to the default MTL settings, except for the change to the range for the ohms since my last post in that thread that you are referencing. The boost of 3 on the 11w and warmth of 5 seems to work just fine. I had originally turned the boost all of the way down along with the warmth in an attempt to prolong the life of the pod. I found that I was having to fire it up more often because the hits weren't as potent, which eventually led to the pod burning up more quickly. The 1 ohm pod seems to last the longest out of the 3, followed by the ,25 then the .5, at least for me. While I set the 1.0 pod up on the MTL side now, I still use it as DL. The flavor on the 1.0 pod is also much better than the others, as well. My only complaint is that there is no replay with it like the other 2. Hope this helps.

Start here You need to switch the escribe software to manufacturer mode. You can get there by going to Options - User Interface - Manufacturer. Once done, you can go to the Mod tab and adjust the resistance values for either DL (direct-lung) or MTL (mouth-to-lung) to 0.8 min, 1.2 max. I would also advise you to turn down the warm, and bring the boost down some. You'll definitely need to tinker with it to find the right settings for yourself. I started out low, then got up to 2 boost with the air wide open. It seemed to produce great flavorful hits direct lung at 11w - 2 boost - 1 warmth. Note that you won't be able to use replay. The Q pods use kanthal wire for the coil, whereas the Orion pods and the 0.5 pods are stainless steel.

Try connecting it to your computer and performing a soft reboot using the escribe software. If that doesn't work work, then try doing the hard reboot option.

I was tinkering around. I have since narrowed it to 3 profiles, 10/11/12 watts with a boost of 2 and warmth of 2 across the board. With the airflow between 40-50%, this seems to work well for me. MTL mode can be disabled in the MOD tab in the escribe software. Just uncheck the box.

Oh, I'm running Circus E Salts Sweet Tooth. It's a 50/50 mix, and I'm using the 45mg nic. I might go down to the 35mg with these new pods. They are hitting way better than the 0.5 pods ever have for me, and the taste is much better at the settings I have it on in the post above.

I built a custom profile for this pod, as it was available in a store near my house. I went with 5 wattage options to see what worked best for me ranging from 8w to 16w. 8w seemed a little weak, but 10 seems to be the sweet spot for me. I have the boost set at 0 across the board, the warmth at 1 across the board, MTL disabled, and the resistance set to 0.8 to 1.2 per op's instructions. I toyed around with the airflow a little, and found that 30-40% airflow performed the best for me. 12w worked well, also, but it was hitting fine on 10w so I left it there. There is a generous amount of cotton in these compared to the 0.5 pods. No problems at all with dry hits or harsh hits, and the flavor is phenomenal. It works perfectly fine in the Orion with the DNA Go board as long as you follow the OP's instructions on setting up the profile with the correct resistance range so that the device recognizes it.