Lanzarotechris
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Posts posted by Lanzarotechris
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8 minutes ago, Catriel Müller said:
I'm still wating
Seems the whole forum went quiet...
Did I miss something ? End of world or so... ?
😉
BTW: Müller sounds very deutsch 😉
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Any news on the crash/freeze fix for the linux escribe ?
Last entry here was in july, now it is october !
Sorry to bother you, but its frustrating that I always have to reboot from linux to windows, only to get access to my 3 DNA devices.
At least an updated posting here would be appreciated to know what's up... and when to expect an update/fix.
And thanks for the work on that !
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can you post a screenshot of the coil ?
What about hotspots ? Shure they are all removed ?
If not shure, try to space out the coils (stretch the coil carefully so you have spaces between the wraps)
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7 hours ago, StockQuahog said:
Hey Guy Fawles can you pls just hack my escribe and fix my settings? or at least tell me what iphone app I need?
Set your profile to SS316L, temp could stay like it is, and power to about 40-50 watts.
Activate Replay
Set preheat to 80 or 100 W, for 1 second should be enough. Adjust after trying if needed
The default punch and warmth is 4, adjust after trying if needed (punch for throat-hit, warmth for warmer or colder vape)
Try it 😉
Adjust the power setting only when it spits ... otherwise adjust the preheat
Enjoy !
come back here and report if its ok... or if its not 😉
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"triple core fused clapton SS316L wire on a dual coiler..."
No wonder that the next mod will probably be a half-kilo-watt monster.
This bigger, more power, longer dick shit really makes me sad... Once I thought the human race was intelligent.
But it seems they are overrated and to easy to manipulate...
And there will be no app for that problem 😉
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you did it again... :-s
Told you that these weirdo-fancy coils can't be properly calculated... and because dead rabbit is a dual coiler, you probably end up too low in ohms... again.
Get some cheap round wire, 26 Gauge SS304 or SS316, and make 2 coils with 3 mm diameter and 5,5 wraps (its half wraps because your legs point into the same direction on the rabbit, if they point into opposite direction its full wraps, 5 or 6).
That will give you around 0.2something ohms. Than you set the power to 35 watts. And then try and adjust.
With these fat wires I dunno.... you have to try.... try to get above 0.2 ohms... The longer the coil (more wraps) the higher you get with the ohms.
I would guess try 6 or 7 wraps and see where you come out. Dead rabbit has lots of space available, so eye-ball it and try. Or get a decent round wire 😉
I am happy with mine... cheap, easy to build, and I can do everything from 0.2 to 1.5 if I want.
Temp is as I also already said related to what kind of liquid you use.
Just don't go higher than 250°C...
Try 225-235°C. Thats my average range...
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What are the values of your coil(s)
diameter, wraps,...
1 hour ago, StockQuahog said:It seems like most people use preheat but why? Why not set the wattage high and let the chip back off the wattage when it gets to the correct temp?
Well, maybe because whe you use preheat you will not have the huge spike like in your diagram (Power and Voltage), so they don't stress their batteries like you do, which will result in longer lifetime for the batteries... its also safer if you don't stress your batteries over the recommended Ampere value (calculate it with an Ohms Law Calc).
Yes, maybe the chip throttles down, but I think its more intelligent to NOT to rely on the correct function of a chip to protect me from blowing up my batteries.
Also my mod will last longer over the day if I don't run it on 155 Watts but 50 instead.
As you see in the diagram, the 155 Watts only lasts for a very short time, so you are actually wasting energy and stress your batteries without reason when you could use preheat instead.
Or to quote your coil manufacturer:
**THIS IS AN ADVANCED ITEM THAT REQUIRES A GOOD UNDERSTANDING OF BATTERY SAFETY AND OHMS. WE RECOMMEND ONLY FOR USE ON A REGULATED MOD, MECHANICAL MODS ALSO WORK BUT CAN BE DANGEROUS IF DONE INCORRECTLY!
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Well, then maybe you should stop complaining about gunk and flux and wasting coils,...
And please never say: I didn't know that/never heared that before,... etcpp.
Sometimes its wise to just accept an advice. Especially when that is a) for free and b) well explained...
And NO, the "security/safety" options of a DNA will not safe you from your own stupidity.
But I see, you're the cool hero, right ? You have 300 Watts and you're so cool you just lick the posts...
Sorry, but you're the kind of type the vaping comunity really don't want ! Because you don't care, and you don't listen and you ignore the given rules !
So do me a favour, don't ask me for any further advice in the future... its wasted time.
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That would be scotland... or do you mean england england ? I always mix up england and GB :-s
Well, then you're right... lol
I'm from good ol' germany...
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not really... even I wouldn't say that 😉
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No problem 😉
You're welcome !
BTW: What is your native language ? You didn't answer that ...
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17 minutes ago, Carl sayers said:
Okay thank u very much for yr help i will build this tomorrow
and last question were it say 40 watts is this on reply mode or in temp mode is so what degrees c shall i set it too and last question for that build how many wraps will i need to get 0.2 ohm at 3mm
Hey, fast man ;-))
Ok, 40 watts is 40 watts,... when you choose the material (ss316l) you get automatically into TC mode (otherwise choose Watt Mode), as TC is material-based !
Replay is just to "RE-PLAY" the last puff, because you liked it so much ! It has basically nothing to do with TC (but it will not work with Non-TC material).
So, set material to ss316l, set 40 watts, Temp to 230°C, and try... if you like it, set replay. If you think its too hot, go down with watts, if its too cool or doesn't vape much, go up with watts.
Then, if you like it, not too hot, not too cold, and you taste the flavour of the juice (no guarantee for that, I think I tried >100 different liquids and most are terrible), THEN set replay !
Fine-tune it with Punch (=Throat-Kick) and Warmth (=Warmth of the vape).
About the Temp setting: That depends on your taste and on the kind of liquid.
Some Info here: https://vaping360.com/best-vape-mods/temperature-control/
Different flavours like different temperatures, fruit, or bakery, or mint, or....
In general, don't go above 250°C, as that is the Temp when the cotton will start burning...
I think I got a list somewhere....
Enjoy 😉
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Here are some good YT videos about building on the dead rabbit rta:
(don't worry about the coils, they all use big fancy coils, but that is NOT the point... they kind of have to so the movie looks better, hehe)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fm0yE7sZ9mU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmd3wsJ9SW8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92lAr_jAtT4 (he got 0.16 ohms and is running it on 60 Watts, but its a thick, fancy coil)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNedbttSDsk (he got 0.1 ohms and is running on 70 Watts, also fancy coil)
As I said, you don't need these kind of coils, you can get the same with normal round wires. They just "look" better ;-)
Of course you can spend money on pre-made coils like this... welcome to capitalism... like you can spend a lot of money on juice, or cars, .... you get the picture ?
But basically we all want to stop smoking, and maybe also save some money for other things... right ?
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Ok, so the wire is standard round, and you made 2 twisted coils wich give you 0.15 ohms in total, that gives us 0.3 ohms for each single coil (I assume they are both identical=same number of wraps).
(I hope you watched some coil making videos on youtube to avoid the beginners errors).
I also assume you have no hotspots (you can google that on youtube too).
We still need more information, for example how many wraps/turns did you make on your coils ? 4 ? 5 ? 7 ?
The "Twist-pitch" would be interesting to know (that is the distance between a full round of one strand of wire... google that too if you don't know or confused)
The "problem" with the calculation is that the wire-diameter is not the same as with a single wire (unfortunately it is also NOT the double of it). So we have to "guess" here a little bit...
I tried to fill the "blanks" and came out with this:
https://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=ss316l&p=roundmulti&tp=5&s=dp&r=0.15&str=2&awg=29&id=2
When you open that link you get to that coil calculation page I told you before.
Check the data and correct it if you know it (like the number of wraps, but that you can only adjust indirectly by changing the Gauge/AWG or the pitch or the inner diameter)
With a lot of guessing and the little info you gave me I come up with about 37 Watts (if you have 5 wraps on each coil and a pitch of 5mm and a diameter of 2 mm, wich I all "guessed", if you have other values, pls correct them).
Try 40 Watts and see if you are OK with the vape... adjust up or down but not more than 5 Watt-steps ... be patient ;-)
For that standard round wire you should not need preheat.
Make shure that you set the correct material in your mod/escribe, and then start testing with 40 Watts....
If you like a simpler solution make a standard round single wire coil without twisting ! That makes things much easier ;-)
It also doesn't matter if its spaced or touching, only spaced coils are easier to handle because you don't have to worry about the hotspots.
And last, I think 0.15 ohms is way too low ! Lots of mods will give up below 0.2 ohms.
Try to make this one:
https://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=ss316l&tp=5&s=dp&r=0.2&awg=26&id=3
Its same material, single wire dual coil, 3 mm diameter, 0.4 ohms each which gives you 0.2 ohms total, running at 35-40 watts.
Tell me if you still have problems, or if my advice solved your problems ;-)
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Well, I would say no wonder about the Temp flux because you've set your power to 300 Watts !
As you (should) see on the graph that after the big spike your coil only needs around 65 Watts to keep the temperature.
So why don't you try 70 Watts, and if you have a big fancy coil set some preheat of 80 Watts for the first 1 second ?
Then you probably won't have trouble with gunking anymore, because the gunking is caused by that 300 Watt inferno.
I bet your coils will thank you too with giving you more life out of them.
Just remember: Because your mod CAN do 300 Watts doesn't mean you SHOULD do it !
Also you have longer lasting batteries... so basically its a win-win-win-win situation (no gunk, no flux, longer lasting coils and longer lasting batteries)
And it also will probably don't blow up in your face one day, too 😉
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@Carl sayers
Hi, I see you have some difficulties ... May I ask you what is your native language ?
Then I like to know which Data you can provide about your coil build.
-Ohms reading ?
- Single or Dual Coil ? what Material ? normal round wire or something "fancy" like "triple core double twisted clapton".... or so... ?
- what settings you have on the profile of your Mod (Paranormal 250C) (Temp setting, Power setting, Warmth, Punch, Preheat) ?
I already can tell you that your Temperature is MUCH too high ! When you want to use a "safe" setting for vaping (especially when you want to try TC) your Temp should NOT exceed 250°C (That is the Temp when Cotton will start burning !)
But without the other data I asked about, it is difficult to give you a better advice yet.
For your question about the wire, it would help if you can tell what you were vaping before, or what your preferences are (warm, cool vape, cloud-chaser or flavour-chaser, what other coils/atomizers do you use ?)
For example (would be great if you answer looks like this!):
I am a flavour-chaser, so for clouds I don't care, I normally vape within a range of 0.2 ohms (dripper/rda) and 0.5 ohms (tank/rta), I don't like hot vape, so my average Temp is around 225-235°C.
I normally use TC with standard round wire (SS304 or 316L) with 0.3 mm (28AWG/Gauge) or 0.4 mm (26 AWG/Gauge). I use single and dual coils.
My favourite Dual-Coil is my Aromamizer (23mm) with standard round dual SS316L (26 AWG) and 2.5 mm diameter, 7 wraps, reading 0.2 Ohms, running in TC with 40 Watts and a Temp of 235°C.
My favourite Single-Coil is in my GT IV (25 mm) with the same wire, diameter 3 mm, 6 wraps, reading 0.4 Ohms, running in TC with 20 Watts, Temp 235°C.
If it helps I speak english, german and a little spanish...
For help on coil-building this is a great website (https://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html)
Just choose the correct material, set AWG, Single or Dual, Target Resistance and Diamenter, and it tells you how many wraps and which Power
you need. You can check you current coil for errors too... just enter the data of your coil. Then you see if some data/setting is wrong on your mod.
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Ok, Just wanted to make shure that your Samsung 25R are not working over the tolerance of what they made for.Lots of people don't make shure to stay within the given limits and end up in the news because their batteries exploded 😉
That gives vaping bad press and we won't that... as there is already too many BS going around from the pharma and tobacco industries.
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@Gavnaf
I see your Cell Soft Cutoff is set to 2,75 V.
Mine is set to 2,5 V (using 3x VTC5).
My settings are based on the Sony Konion Datasheet from Mountainprophet (http://www.dampfakkus.de/akku_liste-nach-marke.php).
Based on that database your settings should be:
Cell Soft Cutoff: 2,5 V
Max. Peak Input Current: 24 A
Max. Sustained Input Current: 20 A
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If you mean this function, for me it let me choose between Maximise Recharges" or "Maximise Puffs", so for Maximise Recharges it will charge the battery only 95% to make it last longer.
For Max. Puffs it will charge the battery 100%.
Why you don't see a function, I don't know... what Mod do you use ? Maybe you don't have a Mod with internal Battery Balancer.
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2 minutes ago, zark said:
I have already said that I do not know English, I did not correctly understand the meaning of many concepts on the forum. But in your comments, I see that you do not fully possess information about TC mode.
P. S.
When I say "lock", then I refer to the "lock ohm" function.
The only concept here is that we all try to help other vapers, and that the advice we give is solid and correct. That means you should be able to give one or more reference to your advice in case someone disagrees (like I did).
And if you think I don't know what I am talking about regarding TC you are wrong (again).
I could ask now why you think that my knowledge about TC is wrong/not complete, but I think you wasted already lots of my time. So I don't ask.
But please stop bullying and maybe use your translator to check the forum rules again ?
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1 hour ago, zark said:
We learn this in school. These are the basic principles of Ohm's laws ...Look here, but it's hard for me to judge the quality of this information, because I don't know English
I checked the article and it indeed says
"Check that the resistance is reading accurately and lock the resistance (typically by pressing the +/- buttons)."
Which is stupid I think.
Well, we can now discuss the quality of this reference, or we can agree that for example there is no reference to that action in any DNA manual, or any vodeo/article I read about TC in the last 1,5 years.
The only firmware I know of that locks ohms "by default" is ArcticFox, but only when you set the ohms manually.
Maybe some devices will work better with it, I don't know, but as we talk here about DNA devices let me ashure you that there is no need to "lock" the ohms (except when they are not stable).
Reason is that when you use TC mode, the mod knows that the material will change the resistance (and can calculate the temperature correctly when you have choosen the correct material).
And because when you are asked "new atomizer yes/no" the mod will use this value as a reference point for all calculations.
Can we agree on that ?
PS: It's nice if you like to help people here, but when you say your english is not good, then you know that can be difficult, right ?
BTW: What is you native language ?
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32 minutes ago, zark said:
All modes that have a TC mode must have a resistance lock. But in some models, manufacturers do not ask to lock the resistanc, because this is done automatically when installing a new atomizer (did you see the question — new atomizer? Yes / No). When you confirm a new atomizer, the mod remembers and locks cold resistance.
@zark:
Please do not confuse the people you try to help by using words that have a different meaning.
When you say "lock" then Adam_Aves thinks you refer to the "lock ohm" function.
When the atomizer asks "new atomizer yes/no" and you say "yes", then the atomizer sets the new ohm value as the reference/base line for the calculation (when you set it at room temperature without heating it up before).
But this is not "locking" the ohms. Its more like a reset of the baseline so the curve the DNA chip works with (material csv) has a reference point, from which the atomizer can calculate the temperature (as certain materials have a specific curve when heating up).
@Adam_Aves:
Please do NOT lock your ohms by default when using TC mode. ONLY when the display/escribe shows that your ohm value is not stable.
Stable in this regard means it does not change the value. Of course it will change slightly when the room temperature changes (for example when you go out in winter, because then the "room temperature" is not 20°C but 5°C.
Not stable/fluctuating means when it is changing constantly without reason (for example when you screw it onto the mod and it reads 0.5 ohms, 10 minutes later it shows 0.55 ohms and another 10 minutes later it shows 4.5 ohms (without vaping between of course). The time is just an exanple, it could also be in shorter intervals of course. THEN you can lock the ohm setting so the mod has again a fixed reference point to work with.
Is this answering all open questions ?
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@zark
I asked you about a source.
And I do no stupid forum-fights, I am too old for that kind of wasting my time, so if you like my signature or not, I really don't care.
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@zark
So you say all TC materials (SS, TI and NI) should be locked by default because they change resistance when heated ?
Thats new to me... never heared that anywhere. Do you have a source for that ?
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Linux EScribe Suite Beta Thread
in EScribe, Software and Firmware
Posted
so he was not a nice man ? I just hope this blaming game will end one day... everyone is already dead,... the good ones and the bad ones 😉