joeblowma

I had that problem, took me a while to figure out I have to set the unlock code to 3 clicks of the fire button separately (you can set it to whatever buttons you want, up to 5 IIRC.) As to boost I'm as clueless as you on the specifics.

I've been sticking mostly to replay mode on my paranormal 250c mostly because I get intermittent anemic (very cool) puffs in TC mode. That said, the closest I've come temp settings wise to ArcticFox on it is using jaquith's v4 ss316L profile. As in, when I use 316L TFR on AF I typically set the temp to 210C with this one atomizer and with the v4 profile I've been setting it to 213C on the paranormal. That isn't to say the temp is particularly accurate with that curve... but that it's where I've become used to it being. I do love my paranormal/DNA 250C board, far far better than the DNA75 I had used previous to it. Here's hoping it lasts a long time and never suffers the "won't wake up" issue 😊

Indeed, it was light being "fiber optic-ed" (diffused) down the predominantly green/yellow ribbon, which explains why I saw green and someone else yellow. I was worried it would be hard to get at it because DJLSB's paranormal review claimed it was impossible to open, but 10 screws and the bottom and then frame over the screen just pop off. Hopefully it helps someone else, in the least to not worry too much about it. Great mod by the way, really loving DNA250c, almost never gave it a chance because I didn't like the DNA75 I have.

Problem solved! As shown here (click to zoom): They put a stick on diffuser above the LED as well as a semi transparent membrane for the button to sit on, but the backlight on the screen bleeds through the FPC into the button membrane meaning the TFT backlight was lighting the LED hole a little. I cut the diffuser a little shorter on the sticky side so it doesn't get close to the screen FPC, then (carefully) put a cut-to-size strip of electrical tape over the bleedy portion of the fpc, final result no more phantom green light and a cleaner/truer color LED from the reds/blues in the theme I've been using: Glad in the end I didn't have to bug Evolv about this problem, it is really a Lost Vape design issue. The TFT ribbon is placed well away from the button/LED and the TFT is held up by a nice little frame so it was only an annoyance not a cause for concern.

It did it with the default theme it came with, at the time I thought it was just the theme settings but I had saved it before I changed it and checked just now and nope, it's set to no LED in 'normal'. I just threw a couple more themes on, ones that don't take as much memory as this one, and still an issue there. I'm 99% certain it's nothing to do with themes, barring an obscure firmware bug... at least I haven't run into the "won't resume from sleep" issues others have had. I did forget to mention I'm using the software with SetupEScribe2_SP15_1_INT_ServicePack applied, and have updated the board to 1.1 SP33.2 INT, though as I said it was doing it with whatever firmware was on it when I got it too.

I'm using the 'gauges 2.1' theme at the moment on this Paranormal 250c, looking in the theme designer the LED should be off unless firing... but it is showing up as light green which changes in intensity along with the screen brightness. I recall seeing a similar topic which claimed 'yellow' (which it is honestly close to, but I see green) though all the suggestions in there were related to the LED settings, which as far as I can tell should be off: but this is what I get on the mod: I edited the theme setting to have a 1s black LED, made no difference. Light bleed from the TFT into the LED? Should I be worried about the LCD ribbon? I'm not adverse to fixing things myself if it's something simple like adding kapton tape (I've done plenty of electronic reworks, even hand assembled boards like this one without hot air), but if it's something normal with this board I can live with it.