pdizzle

I don't even know if I'll have enough room for a nut lol

Looking for a tip on how I could go about grounding in a wood box with 1/4" walls. I have a varitube 510 at my disposal but don't think it will be long enough to get a nut and ground on.

Thanks I think I found my happy spot at 480f @ 62.5w

So you do 40 to 80 watts @ 600 degree?

I use atlantis nickel coils and didn't even mess with anything in escribe thinking it was for building coils lol.

What battery sled did you guys use?

fasttech is selling those lionpower batteries if thats the one they are using in the vt

I have a battery right now that will only fit into a G tall boy or APT G+ and I have an unused Mamu Face plate just sitting here so I'm eagerly awaiting this box from Russell

Is this with the Atlantis? I'm assuming so, but I know sometimes people use the coils in other tanks. This isn't DNA200 specific, but I was talking with someone who's done a lot more temperature control testing than me, and learned that pressure fit 510 pins like on the Atlantis, can cause slight resistance fluctuations while vaping. I later saw it mentioned on a live vape show, in a similar discussion. There seems to be a problem with sub ohm tanks with RBA coil head decks, and I assume could also be with the prebuilt coils. The more accurate the device is, I'm guessing the more susceptible it is. On the Vape Team (I seem to recall episode 24) the guy (Jaquith or something like that) mentioned a trick to get sub tanks with pressure fit 510 pins to be much more stable, I believe it was a bit of sanding. If you like vaping the Atlantis, it might be worth trying the temp control trick to get the pin to be more continuous and stable, if it's something easy that works well. I haven't done it and can't attest to what methods improve it or what tricks aren't worth the trouble, but I figured I would share in case it helps you with a topic to research into a bit.[/QUOTE] I'm actually using them in a ehpro Morph. It's working a bit better now. Lots of vapor just not very warm at 530f lol

That's assuming you can get the cap over the silicone coating lol. Try holding the cap and spring away from the torch while melting the solder in the pin. It gets hot when you finally press the wire in and let go of the spring and cap.

thats hard luck. So far im 1 for 2 from the ecf co op. First one was my fault. Second one has been going good so far in my BRD enclosure. However i've yet to update to the most latest firmware.

Im having the same issue with .15 Nickel Vapor Shark Atlantis coils...Have it set at 530f @29.3w. Just doesn't produce the same satisfying vape as on the rDNA 40

No I got it working now James. Thanks

downloaded latest version and tried to change delay on welcome screens and it didn't slow it down any.

I have the latest version 1.0.25

Yes that's what I mean. But I don't have those tabs In my version of software

looking to extend my welcome screen so I can take a good picture. what version do i need to have so i can adjust those?

John I hooked my connector in upside down. Haven't tried it the correct way as ive yet to get it desoldered. I feel like an idiot. Not sure if anything fried. I'd hate to ask to get it Replaced but...

Might be a tight fit for a Fasttech flask enclosure lol

So dumb question. Say I knew someone who has or has access to a machine shop. What file do I send him to quote me a price on milling out the Beta enclosure?