brokz

@James The DNA 250 Color v1_1_SP35_INT_SleepTest3.sw-service FW update actually solved the wake-up issue on my Triade 250C! At least so far, for the last week I have not had the issue at all. It sits without batteries all night long and then wakes up after I put them back in and wake it. BUT, I seem to have an issue with Throttling now - which was not present before. The same setup seems to throttle after every few drags when in TC mode. Currently in wattage mode because the throttling issue was just too annoying. Any idea if it's caused by the FW, or if any potential fix for the throttling can be added to the same FW (if it is what caused it)?

Thank you so much! This seems to have completely resolved my issue. It is more than interesting to observe how virtually all of my tanks have worked normally in Power Mode with this DNA chip so far. This is the very first case where I have had to create such a profile for an SS coil. Regardless, thanks again! I was close to accepting the idea that I will have to use Kayfun Prime with a non-DNA mod exclusively. Best Regards

Well, nothing seems out of the ordinary in Escribe. Ohms seem as stable as with other tanks that function without any issues. I have to unscrew quite a bit before it loses connection fully. Now the power cuts down to about 10W from 20W that are set. Something very specific is going on and I can't understand what it is. Even with fluctuating ohms I have had no problems using power mode in the past. Regardless, it is more likely that the tank is at fault here as other complaints can be found about it.

Thank you, these are good tips. I'll try to investigate this issue further with Escribe.

Hello, I've been having a problem with Kayfun Prime in combination with DNA 75 (SMY SDNA75 box). When in power mode, as soon as I hit the fire button, the output starts normally but instantly drops down to 1-2 watts and remains there until I release it. After pressing again, the power starts from where it has been set (for example, at 23W) and then immediately drops back to 1-2W. I've changed the coil and the issue has remained the same. Interestingly enough, the same tank is properly read and fired by my cheaper VTC mini mods. Not only that, but the DNA75 mod seems to be able to work normally with this tank when in TEMP CONTROL mode. I can still feel the output dropping on occasion, but at least there is steady power most of the time. Does anyone have an idea on how to resolve this problem? I presume it's the 510 pin of the Kayfun Prime being too short. But un-screwing the pin can lead to a very wobbly atomizer base and further problems with reading resistance. Is there way to tweak the settings on the DNA chip in this scenario so that steady power gets output to the tank in power mode? I own about 20 atomizers and none of them have reacted in such a way. Usually, if resistance is not read properly, I get different glitches (like temperature showing 6-7 digit numbers such as 9528412C or w/e) or the mod will refuse to fire the tank at all. In this case it shows NO indication of resistance being badly read, or of bad connection. It just doesn't fire at full power no matter what I do. BTW, I am using fresh and fully-charged VTC6 batteries, which work perfectly fine in all of my mods. Anyway, thank you for reading and for any potential advice! Best Regards

You can answer this for yourself, but if you did tests with an atomizer, then unscrewed the atty and screwed it on the next mod right after and continued testing - all of your tests are wrong. If that's the case, perhaps you should re-do them by giving your atty 1, or even 2 hours time to cool down completely before starting tests on the next mod. Otherwise, these tests just show that TC works badly when locked wrongly. Which is completely expected behavior. I can't speak for DNA200, but this applies for DNA75 for sure. On the topic, I wouldn't run a 75w device @75W. You don't really need that anyways. I am running a dual SS clapton setup @40W with 50W pre-heat (285C) and it's working wonderfully. Very consistent and virtually flawless vaping experience. Unless I lock a hot coil.

Hello! I have been using the DNA75 for the last couple of weeks and I have been loving it! There is only one issue, which I discussed in another topic. Regardless, I wanted to bring attention solely on this particular problem that I feel can be improved. The problem is this: Whenever I swap out my battery for another one, the chip is turned off and tends to forget my coil after I power it up with the fresh battery installed. The coil is then read wrongly and my vape experience becomes worsened, more unstable and not as it is normally. I am using SS temp control, btw. My question is - is it realistic to expect that something can be done to change this without breaking the technology that you use to adapt coil sensing? The way I see it, you would want unlocked coils to be forgotten after the shut down idle time has passed. Then the mod wakes up and re-analyzes the coil, which has been cooled down in the idle time. But this does not work well when you swap a cell and turn the chip off, then wake it up in less than 1 minute. Is there any clever engineering that can solve this issue? Thank you for reading. edit: Forgot to mention that a user suggested swapping cells when the device is connected to a USB source of power. I do this and have no problems at all. Yet, this can't always be done. Especially on the road.

That was something I noticed last night, that the coil's reading actually corrected itself after I left the device down for 20-30 minutes. That was pretty cool to see. I can live with this issue, definitely. The compromises I had to do with some of my cheaper devices are much more annoying. Regardless, I would suggest to the Evolv team to add this little functionality, if possible - for the chip to remember coils after swapping batteries, even if the coils were not locked beforehand. This little change would go a LONG way with any DNA user that has external batteries.

So, now that the DNA chip is popularly used with removable batteries, maybe it's possible to make an update that doesn't delete the coil if you swap out a cell? It just seems weird to me that the Joyetech chip does this particular thing better than the DNA75 chip. (although the JT chips have problems with coil erasing. They downright cannot be used with TC unless you mod them to have manual coil delete. So it's not objectively better than the DNA in any case, except the one where it remembers non-locked coils without a battery) Other than that, I can always charge it with USB when close to a PC, but sadly in many cases you do not have a USB slot around you and you have to swap cells on the run.

I can definitely say that swapping your battery out deletes the memory of the coil as it kept happening to me in the last couple of days and it was always consistent. Isn't there a way to store the coil into the chip's memory even when it is not locked? My VTC Mini did not forget coils when swapping cells, even the ones I did not lock, as it also has some form of auto-memory for TC coils. Actually, what is the point of never locking a coil in any DNA mod with removable battery if it will read it as a new coil every time? I do feel the quality of the vape changing both ways, which is why this has been a hard thing to tackle. Even if I lock it and swap out cells, I know that the coil changes the nominal ohms over time as you use it more and more, so my guess is that when it's locked - it's not as precise as it could be, or rather it has no flexibility whatsoever. If I don't lock the coil, it works very well but as soon as I swap the battery (if I used the mod recently) I can feel a difference in the vapor, and I can see the temp reading instantly drop to about 30C lower than what I have set it to be (which makes sense as the coil is read with 0.01 ohm difference). Oh, and I just wanted to clarify that my overall vape experience is actually very good. Even with small fluctuations of numbers, the vapor is consistent most of the time and I can actually feel the temperature staying at one place during puffs. Regardless, I am still new to this and just want to find out the best possible way to make my vape consistent all the time, rather than almost all of the time. Thanks for all your help!

Battery life seems to be exactly as expected for me as well. Generally my cells last about as much as my VTC Mini (which surprised me, because it seems the Mini is also about 85% effective). The difference is that my vape is a bit weaker when I reach low capacity, but that is completely normal due to the pre-heat functionality. The VTC Mini doesn't do that and it generally works up to the wattage you set it at. I was hoping to get more battery life out of the SNDA75, but at the same time I am definitely happy that it is not worse than the VTC Mini, as I was happy with it anyways. For reference, I use dual SS claptons @55W with 65W pre-heat. Decided to remove a wrap from the build tonight and now I vape at 50W with 60W pre-heat. It's pretty good. (this little change seems to give me significantly longer battery life as the amps drained are not so close to the upper limit (20A in my case))

Yeah, yoseff, I think that's what's happening. It definitely seems to read it as a fresh tank and it forgets the original cold ohms. This would not happen with a Lipo pack, where you have the cell constantly connected to the chip, but in the case with external battery - I suppose locking it is a must? Correct me if I am wrong, please.

Thanks for the replies! My question about the resistance was based on the fact that when I install my tank and it reads at 0.20 ohms, and I have set the temp to 290C - it actually reaches exactly 290, or 1-2 degs below it as I vape. When the tank starts being read as 0.21 ohms after I used it actively for a while, the temp now reaches 250C when I vape, but I still have it set to 290C. So I was not sure if the device is "adapting" in a way to the 0.21 res, or it was just reading it wrong and giving me less vape production. I presumed it's the second option as I could feel the vape being a bit weaker than before. It doesn't fluctuate like crazy but the Escribe analyzer shows fluctuations between 0.207 - 0.208 - 0.209. It seems to go to one of these numbers after each second and this is constantly happening when I check it (at room temp). Spirometry said it's common, but as I understood it the fluctuations should stop at one point? Would you say this makes it unstable and lock-worthy, or is this type of small fluctuation acceptable (even if it constantly occurs and at some point the coil is read as 0.22 by the mod during usage)? Oh, and Cheers - I found the Advanced setting. Should have looked harder at the drop down menus. Thanks, everyone. You are a helpful community EDIT: I forgot to mention something important to the ohm question I had. Actually, last night the change of the atty being read from 0.20 to 0.21 happened after I swapped out a cell.

Hello! I recently received my first DNA mod - the SDNA75 - and I have been loving it for the last few days. All my previous devices were in the lower price range - VTC Mini, Cuboid, RX200, and one iPv4 which I modded to have no balance board. The only thing that comes close to the TC performance of this DNA chip was the iPv4, which I am not a huge fan of anymore due to the noticeable pulse modulation, size, extremely inferior battery door, and the fact that it just doesn't provide rich functionality and customization. The Escribe software was a joy to explore and tweak, and I read most of the manual which is well-written. The mod itself feels wonderful and seems to be well-designed. I love that the battery is upside down, having the positive cap exactly next to the venting holes. Cannot speak about longevity and quality of the finish yet, but I have a good feeling about it so far. So, my questions are these: - When I select "Current" to be displayed on the standard screen, I usually see the correct number according to my calculations, but then the number drops during the rest of the pull. For example, I set the wattage to 55W and pre-heat to 65W. 55W + 15% / 3.7 volts (my current cell voltage) gave me about 17A in my calculations, and that is the number that I see at the start of the draw. It then drops to 13-14A during the drag. But my preheat is 65W and the initial second should definitely be higher than 17A. Does this mean that the numbers shown on the screen do not take these 15% of inefficiency into the calculations? - I read that the DNA chip has a smart way of detecting the coil's resistance, and that it should only be locked in extreme cases of unstable connections. The manual also states to install an atomizer on the mod at room temp. So, I did this with one of my atties, which is usually at about 0.20 ohms. I did not lock the resistance and it was read as 0.20 ohms as expected. A few hours later, though, I could see that the shown resistance is now 0.21 ohms. My question is if this is expected and normal, or should be keeping the coil locked at 0.20 at all times? Additionally, I have set the temp to 290C, but now I can see that it goes to about 250C. My guess is that locking it is what I should be doing here. - I am using the Early Escribe Suite soft (SP3) and I am having trouble finding the atomizer analyzer. Any suggestions? Well, this was a long wall of text and I thank anyone that went through it. On the bright side, the early Escribe version with the early DNA75 Firmware seems to be working great! I immediately understood what people meant by the "weak battery" problem that is so overspread. My experience was no different, as I vape at the 50-60W range. The new Firmware seems to have completely solved the problem. I can feel little difference even when my cells are reaching 10-20% capacity. Thanks, Evolv!