engmia
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Posts posted by engmia
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On 7/28/2018 at 5:17 AM, Ak89 said:
Yes it is CNC cut.
THIS is the one I used.
Could not find anything pre-cut with 16mm fire button hole in this box size. I wanted something I could carry all day, every day. Not a coffee table mod. And it is working amazing for that purpose. Battery life is great too. I easily vape from 6am to midnight, or later, and usually have around 20% remaining when I put it on charge. Approx. 25mL per day. Once, I had it down to 9%, but that was after another 5-10mL.
Previously, using 18650s, I was halfway through my third pair by the time I put everything to charge. 4s LiPo is MUCH more efficient at the higher wattage, comparatively.
Thanks a lot! Ahh Aplinetech, how didn't I recognize them. Seems very reasonable, well done on the mod. What wattage/settings do you usually vape?
For efficiency I can highly recommend the new 20700/21700 batteries. My 20700 Sanyo 20700B came in last week and I'm surprised really. On my DNA75C, I cannot kill the battery for vaping two full days. I'm taking over 48 hours here, they are even getting me to the night of the third day, however I'm still doing testing on them (and they are new batteries). I am vaping on 15W/20W preheat, TC on, Replay Off, Kayfun Prime.
I was waiting for the 40T, but when I saw the price on that one when it hit the marked a month ago or so in Europe, I was like what... It cost 15 pounds for a single cell. For that price I instead bought two Sanyo 20700B's and a new Sony VTC5A to have a spare for my DNA75 mod, which is now my backup, should anything screw up (hopefully not).
Albeit on paper they weren't as good as the 40T's, I'm extremely happy with the performance of the 20700B in the range I specified. I haven't tested in higher output scenarios yet with RDA's and etc.
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What mod do you own?
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Yeah they are inter-compatible. It could not work the other way around, since DNA250C have a little more internal storage than the DNA75C, so you could upload a slightly larger theme on there which wouldn't fit on the DNA75C. I assume Escribe will give you an error even before you start uploading the larger theme. I haven't seen such a theme though, and I believe the theme designer should build them compatible for both devices.
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18 hours ago, Stepladder said:
No worries....I forgot to mention my mod is far from perfect, but Ive learnt to live with its quirks as pros outweigh the cons (for me at least). If you can afford one I say go for it I doubt you'd be disappointed (tho I could be wrong and probably am). Happy vaping 🙂
Oh I do already own a DNA 40, DNA 75 and a DNA75C chip (VaporShark, DIY Aluminium box mod and LostVape Mirage), and I have always recommended them with the words "there are cheaper option, but believe me it's well worth the money". I'm not a big fan of plastic and definitely prefer the feel of aluminium mods, especially considering that you hold them for most of the time. However I haven't gotten the chance to experience good 3D print in person, so I was curious at the benefits/downsides since I have toyed with the idea of custom 3D printed enclosure. I actually like the extra weight of the aluminium so I'm not sure that 3D printing is my cup of tea, but definitely a curious area.
The less demanding enclosure (and the ease of 3D printing of course) is the biggest benefit which I see. Like you, I keep my aluminium mods separate from keys and coins so they don't start getting scratched up. You could easily leave this on concrete and all kinds of surfaces without thinking twice (not that I wouldn't leave my aluminium mod on concrete, but I would be more careful with the dragging). Then again, I'm already used to keeping my mod in a separate pocket.
In general I want to build another custom DNA75C, but with a more specifically designed enclosure, so I'm looking for the best options.
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@Ak89 Nice job on the modding mate! Not a fan of the RGB but sure do enjoy seeing people do stuff like this
Again props for sharing the project.
Could you please share what is the enclosure you're looking? It seems like it was CNC cut correct?
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22 hours ago, Stepladder said:
Size wise mine is smaller than a Therion apart from the width which is slightly wider but I think (for me at least) makes the mod more ergonomic...I previously owned 2x Paranormals, and 2x Therion all which I sold because I didn't like using them after having the pleasure of using the Rebel...they felt heavier and prone to damage so was always conscious of not putting them in pockets containing keys or sitting them down on concrete for fear of scratching them...3D printed mods are a different ball game all together as they are made from nylon which make they durable. (Extremely light but solid) Also the Ally black version from Rebel is a solid black so if you did scratch you don't notice them. I happened to be tipped off about them whilst watching Jai Haze review. Hope that clarifies my gush fest.
Thank you for the clarification!
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On 7/4/2018 at 8:17 AM, tortex73 said:
In my theme I just went through and made sure the "fire from this screen" box was unchecked on every screen except my main screen and the live puff screen, but it is still firing from every screen. Is this just a general bug or perhaps something going on with my chip? Any insight would be great and if anyone would be willing to flash my theme and test it out on their device and relay back to me, that would be super helpful. Thanks in advance.
The theme-
Good news, it's not your board. It's definitely a weird bug in your theme. I haven't had the time too look into too much details but at first look your settings appear to be correct. The same settings on my theme do observe the expected behaviour e.g. when "Fire from this screen" is not selected the fire button acts as a back button. I tried uploading your theme and for reason it fires from screen on which it shouldn't, such as the "Atomizer" screen. On the battery screen it works as expected. Again, this is definitely something particular in this theme and not in Escribe or the board/your board.
Are you using any conditions?
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On 7/20/2018 at 4:52 PM, Stepladder said:
Hi Brady M, I too have a Rebel, you can only realise how good these mods are by having one....light, solid, ergonomic, scratch proof so you don't have to worry...game changer in my hubble opinion ...I use the DJLsb Theme modded to include Replay and the option to switch out the default display to a colour of my choosing ...only problem is they all work really well with black so I am always spoiled for choice...I think greens a winner on my Ally black sqounker.
Hey mind breaking down for me what are the benefits of those mod? Don't get me wrong, they don't look too shabby - but they seem bulkier than my aluminium case mod and they are fully 3D printed?
Furthermore what do you mean by scratch resistant? Judging by the looks the mods are 3D printed from the plastic materials so should be susceptible to scratches (although even if it gets scratched you should see other black material below)? How do you think it compares in durability to an anodized aluminium mod?
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@James The fix isn't out yet right? If it helps you with troubleshooting -- I noticed that on Fedora 28 it doesn't crash in absolutely every scenario, only if modifying CERTAIN values through the UI. Here are a few examples:
1. Starting theme editor, selecting a Field element (say the battery percentage on my theme) and changing the Padding or Location of the element though the numerical values on the right side DOESN'T result in a crash. You can apply and upload the settings to your device.
2. Selecting the same Field element and trying to move it through the graphical interface results in an instant CRASH (albeit changing the values through the numbers works fine)
3. Selecting this Field element, then selecting another Field element without doing any changes results in an instant CRASH.
4. Selecting the Field element and going to a Gauge element, DOESN'T result in a crash. You can go back and forth between those two without issues, but once you select another Field element it would CRASH as in the above scenarios.
5. Same for the Gauge element, I can move it around using the numerical values, but the moment I try moving with my mouse it would cause an instant CRASH.
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On 4/28/2018 at 5:27 PM, James said:
This is a tricky one. It's not a bug as much as a 'there is no good choice':
When it's on, it tracks when you connect and disconnect coils to ask New Coil Yes/No, so the DNA has a good idea of what to do.
You could have put on a new coil with similar, but not the same Cold Ohms. The DNA 75 doesn't know how long the device has been off. The coil is temperature sensing, and it is already hot in the battery swap case, so the measured Ohms will be higher, as you are encountering.
Because it doesn't know how long it's been off, the DNA 75 would have to ask New Coil Yes/No every time it powers up, regardless of Ohms, even if it had been off for a few hours and you've swapped nothing. This would be very annoying. It can't use a threshold, say, "it must be within 5% to assume it's the same", because that would be unavoidably wrong any time you swap to a similar coil at the start of the day, and since the coil may still be hot (due to the tank being warm), it wouldn't necessarily be true anyway.
Thoughts?
@Dejay This issue is resolved on the DNA 75C which implements some sort of a battery and it doesn't forget the resistance upon a battery swap.
@James In regards to ideas for fixing this for the DNA75, what was the cut-off time when the DNA 75 went from sleep to off mode? It is important for my below suggestion:
How about adding the new/same coil question every time the board is powered on, but with the extra check of resistance difference as per the default device setting (it was 25% difference set by default I believe?). That way, when the board times out and the user turns it back on without actually have swapped anything, he won't get asked anything (since at this point -- I believe 15 minutes was the auto power-off time? -- the coil should've cooled down if not completely - enough to be in the default setting range and not trip the new/old question) but when the user quickly swaps a battery, he will get asked the new/same coil question since the coil will still be hot. He would of course pick no -- it's the same coil as he only changed the battery -- and keep his old resistance and accurate temp control. It also covers the scanerio when the user swaps a battery for example in the morning when everything is cooled off - he won't get asked the question, since the device would go -- powered on -> check resistance to old cold resistance -> resistance within *setting* range -> don't ask new/same.
E.g. implemented like this, it should only add the extra new/same question when the user swaps the battery and the atomiser is still hot, which is the fix we're looking for. It shouldn't add the question implemented like this in any other scenarios so it won't affect the other users who don't swap out batteries or other scenarios.
Please do tell if I need to clarify my explanation or if I'm missing any scenarios?
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On 6/29/2018 at 1:21 AM, cggorman said:
Thanks. I'll look up that tutorial.
I used to build custom screens and themes for high end universal remotes (before smart phones took the stage) so I'm pretty comfortable with trial and error and have a grasp of how theae kinds of things layer together. The thing that's killing me right is the lack of a SIMULATOR. (Or is there one I'm missing somehow?). Making changes to a theme, transferring back to escribe, uploading, and testing is too tedious. ..especially not knowing some of the most basic things like terminology and syntax.
Like, what the hell is a toggle? And why isn't there an easy way to find the source/target/structure for what screen a control is on or how its status changes. Having only one screen visible at a time sucks. Hrmm... I'll get it. I just wish there was at least a basic help file with definitions, list of functions, and such.
Thankfully Evolv haven't thought of some crazy definition of "toggle" and it means the same pretty much as everywhere else -- something which toggles the states of a function (usually On/Off).
There is a "live display" or "emulation" as you called it of the theme you are editing, on two places actually: the screen itself which you're editing (once you get used to it, you'll be able to imagine how they display on-screen more) and the one on the right hand side, which contains much smaller windows and is better for getting a real hold of how exactly it will look on the device.
You can check out DJLSB's tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dvBpTm-FQM
Also as noted, you can download a few of the more comprehensive themes/the themes you like and tinkering with them -- for example now I'm learning how to use Escribe by editing the Material-ish Fire theme to my liking.
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Here is a tutorial by DJLSB: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dvBpTm-FQM
Another good starting point is downloading a few of the more comprehensive themes and the themes you like, and tinkering with them/looking around how they were build using the theme editor.
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On 5/10/2018 at 8:42 PM, Jonski said:
Has anyone added 'Replay' To the Lost Vape theme by DJLSB ? , I have tried but it seems to be beyond me .
He has uploaded a version 4 of his theme on his website, which includes the Replay function.
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On 6/18/2018 at 6:20 AM, Atlas Gallivant said:
Thanks, I got pretty sick last week so I hadn't been vaping, but I re-uploaded the v3.5 CSV and tried a new coil. This time I spaced it (most of my coils have been contact), and it seems to be working a lot better. Is SS 316L prone to hotspots? I'm wondering if my contact coils may have developed hot spots after vaping on them. Either way, this new spaced build seems to be much more reliable and I am going to experiment with more spaced coils in the future. Thank you for all of your help!
Yes, replay was giving me bad dry hits. However, I've found a spaced build that seems to be more reliable and I'm actually using replay mode successfully! It's great, and I also learned not to mess with replay once you've been vaping on the coil, haha. Thank you!
Every contact coil is prone to hotspots -- it doesn't matter if it's kanthal, stainless or whatever. That's why people who build contact coils dry burn them before hand, since it's hard to know whether you'll actually get a hotstop (and most of the times you do, I've been curious how the manufacturers handle this issue as the contact coils they sell do not appear to be dry burned).
I do exclusively use only spaced coils, since I do not want to dry burn my coils for health concerns (Dr. Farsalinos and others have said that you are destroying the structure of the metal by heating it to such high temperatures, even with a "slight" glow) plus you save time in building. It's definitely more stable in temperature control.
Another thing I forgot to ask is what atomiser you're using? Something which might cause the jumps in ohms (0.39-0.45) as you described, is also a loose connection inside the atomiser (either a spring or a screw not tightened hard enough). For example, on my Innokin Ares I had problems with my resistance jumping all over the place because the screws holding the coil itself weren't tight enough and the coil had a bit of play. Some atomisers have inherent issues with temperature control due to their design (implementing a spring in the design being the most often fault).
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On 6/9/2018 at 11:52 AM, CBB said:
They have contacted me and advise me mail the device to them for checking.
Its not worth to spend $40 more for the postage to repair this function, the fact is everthings works fine except the clock, so i rather give up the clock function.
Ah well, props to Evolv for checking out the issue.
I get what you mean though, the battery door on my Mirage DNA 75C and hell if I'm going to spend a ton of money on shipping + being without my new device for 2 weeks. I would rather just fix it myself (which I will, using some glue hehe). Btw be careful with that battery door, it's not the most stably assembled and doesn't seem to have enough glue for some reason (at least mine didn't).
Clock however seems to be running great, and I even noticed the settings do not reset when you take out the battery, so I guess there is some kind of battery implemented after all
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On 5/27/2018 at 2:05 PM, truckman said:
Is it possible to set maximum power for boost (e.x the 100watts ) via mod with 75c board without the use of escribe? I do not find any appropriate command in theme manager for that.
It depends on the theme your manufacturer built. It was possible on my Lost Vape Mirage 75C
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I haven't played around with the themes yet since I just got my DNA 75C a few days ago. However I've seen the VapeBoy 3000 theme and it's one of the ones which I want to try, so I'll keep you posted!
I can tell you that for sure you can edit the theme in Escribe's Theme Editor and add/remove whatever you're missing.
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5 minutes ago, CBB said:
i’ve done all you mentioned and even i cloned the profile from other device but result same.
I give up already as it wont affect the device running.
Weird, maybe there is something wrong with the board's CMOS/battery? Perhaps @James might throw some advice here.
But yeah in general I guess from this point on your option is contacting your vendor for a warranty replacement.
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On 4/28/2018 at 7:33 PM, Sara Turner said:
I have Escribe that I use for my 75C do I use that same program for the 250C or a different version? Thanks
Yeah, back in the early days there used to be different Escribe versions, but fortunately they worked through that and now all the boards use the same version.
Just make sure to download Escribe 2.0 International SP 15.1 (or the latest release when you're reading this) and you're good to go with any of the DNA chips!
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On 5/11/2018 at 5:35 AM, Mark82 said:
retird... i gave up on the Issue for awhile and just restarted my computer for a reason not related to this. Not remembering my device was still plugged in, ascribe opened right up upon restart and i saw it detected my device saying something about an incomplete install was found on the mod, i literally just hit ok a few times and for some reason it installed the default evolv theme. Seeing this, I assumed the restart fixed whatever issue I was having, I decided to put the modder's theme back on the device at least... It starts to upload and at 12% an error popped up that I lost connection with the mod and now I am just getting a white screen when i turn the mod on and when I connect It says t cannot figure out device version, and Im back to where I am at before no matter how many times I restart. So, 2 possible conclusions.. install of escribe is corrupt, or my micro usb cable is bad. Would that be correct to assume?
Escribe install is corrupt sounds doubtful since the program is otherwise working. Bad MicroUSB is possible, especially if it's loose and loses connection during the upload, but otherwise sounds unlikely as if the cable didn't support data transfer, the process wouldnt' start in the first place.
It is possible that the theme is corrupted as @retird suggested. What theme are you trying to upload?
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@Atlas GallivantOne thing I forgot to mention about, to help you with point number 2 -- troubleshooting the loose connection -- you can use the "lock ohms" feature of the board. I personally reject to use it and never have used it since everything should be working fine without you needing to lock and unlock your ohms every time you change an atty (and fortunately for me it is) but in cases like yours where you are experiencing issues it's a very essential tool.
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Erm no idea, stopped using anti-viruses a few years back since I rely on my own knowledge and skills to protect myself (not saying everyone should do that). In general, I have heard reports of Norton false positives quite often, the Evolv software is safe, just download it from the official mirror. I doubt that it hasn't been downloaded by at least a hundred people by now as @retird suggested, but who knows.
And very important -- always use the International version of Escribe. The US version comes with certain limitation built-in due to the FDA regulations (not sure which ones exactly, about to research on that, but you do lose the 400W preheat on the DNA250C for sure). And if you live in the US, no one can oblige you to download the US version and not the International version, and it is not wrong doing so.. There is no differences in the software otherwise and you will not exhibit any issues if you live in the US and use the International Version (on the contrary)
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2 hours ago, CBB said:
yep
That sucks. No idea honestly, although it does sound as a weird software bug. I would try restoring the firmware (Lost Vape have a download on their website) or restore to the default Escribe theme. Working fine on my Mirage.
I find it highly unlikely that the CMOS of the board malfunctioned, haven't heard of similar cases and it's definitely not norm, but not entirely possible. Do try restoring the firmware first, and if it doesn't work contact the vendor for a board replacement.
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I purchased a Lost Vape Mirage DNA75C recently, and I've been extremely happy with the device. Been using it for a few days now, and by first impressions it really is very very good with good build quality, good 510 and everything. Compatible with 18650-21700.
However I will agree, that that I don't see a lot (or at least as much as I would want to) of devices coming out. That's one of the main reasons I grabbed the Lost Vape Mirage the moment I saw it. I started building my own mods, but I like the looks and the resin which I couldn't source myself and I knew it would be gone soon. Who knows when I would've came across another DNA device which I liked.
whats going on dna 250c???!!!
in General Discussion
Posted
Did you resolve your issue yet? Why are they asking you to contact Ginger Vapor when you said you own a Boxer Box mod? Shouldn't you be contacting Boxer instead?
Furthermore, could you please clarify which issues you are still experiencing so I can assist you.