epicwood

For those still seeing "Hold Change to temp" instead of "Hold to Change power" when you have temp. Dom. enabled, it's because you have a theme that's overriding that screen. Goto the Them tab --> Hold To Change Temp --> Click Default. it'll go back to the deault screen and you will see "Hold To Change Power" on your device

Unfortunately, you predicted the future here... blew the fuse on the chip and the battery has light scorch damage on the wires. I tried to remove the components from the box to do some cosmetic work (bigger buttons carbon fiber wrap) and since i had to hard-wire the battery it was left prone to mishaps made worse by a stripped screw. So the box, battery and chip are beched. The FDV box was cool and I like design, I wish it had more rounded corners and edges though and the finish sucked, you need to do more to it. I do not recommend hard-wiring batteries, I am rebuilding James with a venom 1300 35c (85*30*19.5mm) this leaves room for plugs. Maxamps is a great battery, but two of these venoms would have been the same price for 2600mah with plugs. I am going to see if I can get maxamps to repair and test my battery, they seem to have excellent customer service, lets see how good. As far as my chip goes, I am not skilled enough to remove and replace the fuse. What should I do here? It's an 80 cent fuse. I would like to save my $80 chip.[/QUOTE] yu could always used bullet connectors to save space. They would have fit with that maxamps 1850, in the enclosure you had.

FullyMax FB900HP-3S it's sold on the evolve website

SQUONK-LYF. DNA200 Sqounk, FullyMax 900mah lipo, 10ml squonk bottle. I've got 2 doors for it, both are pictured. I haven't cut a squonk hole yet. not sure if i want one. The last picture is the squonk with it's little brother a dna40.

So i solved the issue, and it was defintely the squonker below. below and to the left is the newer fatdaddy vape squonk 510, it's a stainsteel shaft. the right is an older fatdaddyvapes squonk510 with a brass shaft. pictured below that is the metal tube that goes inside the shaft connecting it to your bottle. see that little oring, that's to help leaking. okay so initially i have the newer 510 installed, had teh tube, and oring installed. the 26ga nickel would fire in temp mode. so i took the oring out to help wit the connection. still the same issue persisted. so i dug in my parts box and found the old squonker 510s. installed it, with the tube and the oring. same issue. i took the orin out so the tube was directly connecting to the bras pin, and BAM!!! she fired right away. no issue at all. it's weird, but it's fixed. i see he has an even newer version of the squonk pin with japanese SS, it looks dull, so maybe that will help with the connectivity issue. Going to order one and find out..

more detailed view of the 26ga graph. also including link to the CSV

adding graphs. both fired with the same settings. top is the 28ga nickel, bottom is the 26ga nickel

last night I finished building a squonk box, and noticing something weird with the temp control. with one atty i have a standard 28ga nickel single coil build sitting at .14 ohms rested. works just fine on the new squonker. I have another atty build with dual 26ga nickel coils sitting .08 ohms. the temp will flash at "3354F" them go straight to non-temp mode barely firing. I've taken this same atty and out it on 2 other devices i build and it works fine. I've also take several other attys with similar guage nickel setups and achieved the same results. I've taken the squonk apart, checked, and redid my solder connections just to make sure everything was fine. even filed the top of the box on the inside to make sure it was properly grounded. put everything back together and was able to get the same results. it seems like if i get below .10 ohms with nickel it acts wonky, above .10 it fires just fine. I'm going out on a limb and thinking it's something with the 510 squonk connection. anyone else built on the 510 squonk pin from fat daddy vapes and experience a similar issue?

where did you get that gray part that's between the case and the white screen holder?[/QUOTE] It looks like a mamu faceplate on the inside. the faceplate comes with the screen holder as well.

my Super Bee! Mopar Inspired. Hammond a-box, mamu faceplate.

So the hydro drip on the case peeled off badly. you can see the in the screenshots above. So i went and peeled it all the way off, and painted it myself. I call it the Super Bee. Mopar inspired.

You tube has failed me on both videos. I'm posting new ones up soon. I've got some new chips and enclosures coming. So within the week i'll have new videos up.

Thanks Brandon. I appreciate it.

Final Results! faceplate still needs to be epoxied in, but it's done!

PT.2 going live soon! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2ZHypeV620

Here's my box(giggity) CNC G+ box. Codename Snakebit.

Luckily they don't mute it when it's live. I'll figure out something. out of the 3 hours of songs it muted it because of one hendrix toon.

Hey All, I'm a fellow modder, and figured i'd try something new, like building a mod live on YouTube. This was Part1 of building a DNA200 in and hammond 1590 A box. It was live at 5pm est yesterday. I go through step by step, covering parts used, specific tools, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzTiACGOVYQ Part 2 will be live tonight at 8pm est. I'm going to make it a weekly series building various builds. This weekend I'm building a DNA40 Squonk Live. Then a DNA200 Squonk after that. Also what I'm planning to do is build customers mods live as well. So if someone orders a mod built, they can watch me build it, interact with me while i'm building it, and make suggestions as well while i'm building it. I hope you guys enjoy. Comments are welcome.

I've been running the latest escribe software on 3 different Win10 machines, and it's working fine. running Win 10 pro. If there is anything I can do to help, let me know.

you said nuts...lol.

Thank you all for the help. You guys rock!

I see some of you guys screwing the board to the side of a gbox or bbox, and i see the spacers. What length/diameter are the spacers, or where can i purchase them from?

Where can i get bout 6 of them?