Modbustersecig

yes I don't word things so well do to how I see it after using mec mods for a while to pull a good battery down to 3.6 I know I am pulling some high amps close to max or better not making fun or trying to be rude to pull LG down like that your going to generate heat

something I watch board temperature you are showing about 30 degrees room and running temperature difference on the board that says a lot about efficiency of the device I'm from the old school. Voltage drop amps increase along with heat and heat not being a good thing on any board just my opinion

Here are some pics I found on this site helps to identif some of the components if you could post a pic of the future up the board I am working on a though process with a Little Help from My Friends I would be thankful .I am not affiliated with evolv in any way . evolve is very good about there warranty head on over to there website contact customer service I am always bugging them good bunch

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction retird

I am missing something here update 1.2 SP3 my says 1.2 SP2 can someone shine some light on this for me thanks

For my self I really enjoyed playing with ss and the update but I am going back to titanium with 1.2 sp2 I like it better for my self

hard to say I use ss TCR file provide by Escrib Boresa RTA 316L24 GA 0,14 BUILD 120 pre heat 60 watts run temperature dominant and it works good I did have to reload the TCR file one time it wasn't working right I just reloaded it to my opus DNA 200 edit add 460/500 degrees Fahrenheit version 1.2 Sp 2

I was wondering why not put a replaceable fuse on the negative side of the battery could that cause a problems . 15/20 amp I was looking at my mod when I got it done I have the room pretty happy with the way it came out

I believe it'sll in what works for you if I want temperature control . being able to see in real time what my coil is doing i personally along with few others go for the DNA chip now if I want slam power can be beat to death and keep on ticking the chip known as a rapture original made by Honeywell for NASA right here in my home town clone by guess who adopted for vapors is one tuff board and my experience all the rest chuck in a bag together shake it dump it out take your pick that's just my opinion

thanks at least I know its name I have no desire or abilities even beginning to replace one with that said ever since os 2 xx I have noticed higher board Temps not much never hit 98 D F before now 108 and I have burning at the base of the inductor it gave me warranty message and the fuse is still good that's the board I tried to pop the inductor loose on that one I believe would break the board first thanks for you help

I am the seller and been waiting on a reply from evolv if I am not mistaken you did some post mounting screws /hardware might be able to shine some light on this for me I am just looking for a solution and it's been a bad month if I am mistaking sorry

I have been waiting on this and you just took hook line and sinker are you paying attention I am not the only one you should know that by how many post you have , antagonize people on . now remember you've been warned before so don't want to get you in trouble again remember few posts back I said back off leave me alone black lace you hear you started something you are not going to be able to finish

SO we go from me purposely braking a board to poor working conditions . Are you telling me that the only way to build a DNA board is in a lab is that what we are saying .my board is built in the USA my mod is made in the USA by opus Roger is the man's name and him and Brandon go back a good ways you called me a fool once I was to side step you remarks not this time what child labor Chinese lab do you prefer LMAO

No sir I did not the post I deleted were referring to blown fuses this board just came back this weekend and nothing wrong with the fuse so again I suggest you brush up on reading of English and proper use and understanding of it

apparently you don't understand English very well I have two boards that failed one burned-out the mosfet andt that's the one I tried to pry it loose on and it won't come off look at the pic you twisted my words before you're not going to get away with it this time you just keep glue in your Mods together and build your UK mods and leave me alone okay

thank you for your very unwelcome comet I am trying for a solution not this and I did step away last time not this time if they did not stop working I would have no reason to open them now bug off

[QUOTE=John]Yikes! That does look cold. On the 200, we have to run the boards through the line inductor side first, and the second pass through the oven they're just held on by solder paste surface tension, so we lose a few here. This one probably was loosened up by that, but held on just long enough to get to you and be disappointing. If you want to try to solder it back on, you're welcome to and if you break it send it in and we'll fix it. If not, just send it in and we'll fix it. [/QUOTE I have been running in to a problem same area at first I thought it was caused by dropping the mod might be still but I am getting a lot of issues that seem to be linked to this part of the board I do not write what I mean so good I am not trying to say anything bad or imply anything I have one that came loses on one side I have looked at it moved it and other side holding strong I have another board after installing the latest up date gave me short message after a week of run time I reinstalled 2/2016 software it then said check battery so I did it showed on E scrib good equal voltage but when I try to fire it bad voltage drop like a short so I installed new battery board out made-up a test stand to fire board out of box fired it every thing check out good .I was very happy this board is out of my go to all time favorite device. The old battery pack did have 8 months of use so no big deal and well over 360 change cycles still playing / testing I heard something short arc and got warranty message .I got a sick feeling at once fuse did not blow first thing I checked but all around I believe it's called mosfet.I have burn marks and damage so seeing this board is history I start trying to see how much it would take to knock loses this box looking thing that came lose on the other board in a short period. in my very unprofessional opinion it would break the board first .I am so frustrated. @John I have had 4 boards fail 3 in the past 2 months .am i to the point of saying my mec mod is what I am stuck with never being able to enjoy variable voltage variable wattage let alone temperature control / monitoring again and safety ? Or might I find a answer in the DNA 250 I do not need more power I run 120 watts preheat max 1 second 65 watts run 510 max temperature or in kanthal edit add in looking over this post do to my terrible grammar it looks like I am frustrated with John the way I typed it I was trying to tag John like I said not good and putting thoughts down being frustrated dose not help

I am new to SS stayed with TI tell this last up date I find what you say very spot on it's like a fine balance to get the juice to boil but not to much or it seems to lose flavor then the RTA /RDA and wicking play a big role after getting everything else close I am still playing with space coils not space glow lightly or not at all I am getting great flat line good flavor there are just so many variables it seems like but that's what keeps it interesting

that is quite true titanium in my opinion has to be spaced so that rules out most everything but a simple build get it wicked properly for the RTA you are working on and I find it one of the best builds for flavor hands down

I have had nothing but good things to say about titanium builds most of the time I have learned different RTA can be a bit different I like staying close to 0.1 on my buildings I find the Ti setting provided buy evolv work great I have to give credit to pro vape post on different forms for pushing cleaning and spacing Ti 1 builds I use lightening vape wire 24/22GA wire 24 GA 7/8 raps 2.5 center in Boreas and my Bellow V 3 temperature dominant 120 Watt preheat 55 watt run 450/500 degrees Fahrenheit excellent for me

problem solved when I rolled back to February 2015 firm ware error said check battery and I did the battery was bad solved the problem replace lipo

big problem my go to Opus DNA 200 gave me short error message first thing this morning changed atty same hook to atomizes analyzer shook mod loosen atty wiggle stable ohms so tried to fire through scribe first got short then bad dip in battery pack HELP

I use the profile that came with the up Date from evolv l am real happy but for some reason I had to reload it and after reload i all so I had to do a soft reboot to get my battery meter back it was like it didn't take on the 1st upload download whatever you wanna call it it's working now

I run in to that on my first build after installing the up date I reloaded the file for 316 ss Ben perfect ever since my first build 0.16 works great now did a 0.1 build in another RTA again perfect 100 watts preheat 480 D F edit add 65 watts run drops to around 28 watts mod set for temperature dominant it's a perfect doesn't get any better

OK if you are using a ipv 2 to check anything your most likely getting false reading do to ground issue on the 510 pm me I send you a link showing how to fix it as far as power to the atty using DNA 200 my experience very dead on with any firm ware if you are running .5 coil and I believe you are dead on edit had point in wrong spot sorry