stuartro

Will do. Thank you for the pointer.

Yeah, I was willing to pay extra over the regular cost (and said as much multiple times in emails with Evolv) so as to avoid having to shell out $250 for a new mod. Even went as low as to plead with Evolv, but my pleas fell on deaf ears.

Good luck with this... I did as suggested and was politely told to get lost by Evolv as my LostVape Paranormal was more than a year old. I’ve since bought a LostVape Thelema DNA250C with a sliding battery cover—i.e. no hinge to break—with black calf-skin leather. It’s a truly beautiful device with exceptional build quality. In case you’re interested, see https:xxxxxxxxx/. I ordered direct from Lost Vape and got my mod in a few days via FedEx. Evolv’s DNA chips are superb, but their customer care sucks (big time, in my experience). If Evolv were to sell battery door replacements I could resurrect my Paranormal as a backup mod. However, based on the responses I received to my requests (and even pleas) you may be out of luck.

I finally found it - using my desktop computer. The footer in your messages doesn’t show on my iPhone. Have submitted a ticket.

I’m browsing using my iPhone... not sure if that is why I can’t see what you are referring to (?)

Hi retird, I’m not sure which post I should look at—looked at a few but no red corner. Pls can you send a direct link? Perhaps I’m just slow today...

Anyone know where I can find a replacement part for the battery door on my Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250? Apparently Evolv supplies these parts but I haven’t found any links so far.

Ah. Thanks.

I'm trying this on a DNA 250 with the latest eScribe Suite on macOS, but for the life of me can't find any "Action➔Set" option, in either eScribe itself, or in the Theme Designer. At the risk of sounding stupid, please can you provide a step-by-step note?

I'm at a loss for how to use this to enable on-device reset of puff counter. I'm running eScribe on a Mac—is this a Windows-only option?

I, too, would love this.

Understood—and agree

You can hide minimized windows—i.e. make them disappear from the dock on the right-hand side. Hit ⌘+Tab (holding ⌘) until eScribe app is highlighted, and then press 'H' (while still holding ⌘ down) to hide. You can do the same if eScribe app is the foreground app by simply pressing ⌘+H.

Just tried beta 9 on macOS Sierra 10.12.5 with a VaporShark DNA250. Installation was simple and clean and all apps launch without any trouble. Connected successfully to my mod, downloaded settings, tweaked them, and uploaded again. All working as far as I can tell. Pretty smooth for a beta... (Many) kudos to Evolv for producing a Mac app. Thank you. Now if the Mac app could magically turn my DNA250 screen into a 75 colour screen that would be really sweet. :-)

Yeah, that's the USB charger I'm using. I'm running eScribe 1.2 SP5a and the firmware upgrade that it contains. I don't think it's the same as VS loaded onto the device, but an upgraded firmware.

I'm using an Aukey USB wall adapter (4-port), with each port rated at 4A (though I don't know of any USB devices that would draw 4A).

Wow. Lot of mods. Any idea what might be causing my DNA250 to show 2.81A, 5.21V while "charging", but yet not actually charge at all? I've checked in Device Monitor and all cells are equally balanced (sitting at 3.7V).

Thanks for the suggestions. I agree that first defining exactly what the issue is, is key. Based on my efforts last night, it's not USB cables, and not the battery. Given that the device is essentially a board, a battery and a case+buttons+510 connector, and the buttons/510 connector/case are all fine, I'm left with the conclusion that it's the board (again). Since the replacement board installed by VaporShark during the last repair (when they switched my mod from a DNA200 board to a DNA250 board) is pretty new, I guess one option is to send the board in to Evolv. Or see what VaporShark says about yet another repair. Part of my frustration is that I didn't buy a DNA device to spend my time shipping it to/from, trying to diagnose faulty boards, etc.---my goal is simply an e-cig that "just works". Given the time and money I've already put into this, I am growing tired of repeated device failures. And I have now pretty much lost faith in DNA200/250 in general. Hence my question asking whether others have run into similar issues. I need to decide whether it is worth repairing this thing again, or to simply be done with it. I have two other, substantially cheaper, TC mods which get fairly heavy use on my drippers, running at fairly high power settings, and which are still working flawlessly after 18 months. Have you or others had "success" (i.e. DNA-based mods that work without repeatedly failing) with DNA200 or DNA250?

I'm hoping someone else has any insight / suggestions here as I'm about at the end of my rope with DNA-powered devices. Below is my current "DNA experience": In March 2016 my VS DNA200 stopped firing, or would fire intermittently. VaporShark repaired the device--faulty fire button, apparently.End of June 2016, the screen died, though mod still fired. But hard to operate without a screen. Repaired again by VaporShark--apparently some e-juice from a tank leak had gotten into the device... okay, I thought, though I found this surprising.Late October 2016, screen died again. Like last time, mod still fires. Repaired (yet again) by VaporShark. This time the repair took long, as VaporShark wanted to replace the DNA200 board with a DNA250 board and there was a delay waiting for the DNA250 boards to arrive.Last night, plug my (now DNA250) VS in to charge and I notice the charge current is showing as 3.76A (!). Pressing the fire button shows "Check battery". Even though current is shown as so high, the device doesn't appear to be charging (normally warms up while charging, but still cold, and no change in charge % which is stuck on 44%). Spent an hour on Google, worked through the advice on forums, etc. Tried 3 different USB cables, put in a replacement battery, etc. It's not the cables nor is the problem the battery. Then I read about "loose resistors" on this and other forums.Am I alone in my experience? Is this just a lot of bad luck, or is there something fundamentally wrong with either VS or Evolv? I should point out that VaporShark have been very good about repairing my device each time, covering shipping the first time, and only charging me shipping on the last 2 repairs. My gut feel as an electrical engineer (BSc Elec Eng) tells me that this is a chipset flaw and/or board fabrication problem. I have been exceptionally careful with this mod, gingerly inserting/removing the USB cable when charging, ensuring that tank's fluid holes are closed when not in use to prevent any spills, etc. but this is now becoming a (bad) joke. Is it time to throw this (rather nice, when it works) mod in the trash and be done with Evolv/DNA entirely? Perhaps its time for a Yihi device? To be honest I don't even want to send this back to VS again for repairs... boxing it up, taking to Fedex, tracking the package as it travels from Toronto to Miami, explaining to VS tech staff (nice as they are), paying for shipping, etc. etc. I had truly hoped that the switch to a DNA250 chip might solve the problems---I wondered in the past if VS's 2A charging wasn't overheating the chip and causing thermal problems, but felt optimistic that an "official" 2A charging solution provided by Evolv would be more robust. Well, there it is. Thoughts / suggestions / anyone wanting to buy a DNA250 that doesn't charge?

Yeah, material selected is SS316—checked both in eScribe and on my VS DNA200. Gonna try another hard reboot, and perhaps dry-firing the coil on power mode a bit.

Not sure if I've made an obvious error, but just upgraded my VS DNA200 to v1.2 SP3 firmware. I've used titanium-1 for all of my builds to date, but was tempted by the talk of "buttery-smooth SS" temp control. Everything looks fine, except that my SS 316 build (dual SS 316 coils, 26 gauge, 11 wraps each) is refusing to "work" in TC mode. Each time I fire my mod, the set temperature (400F) disappears and is replaced with "OFF". Profile settings are Temperature-Dominant, 400F, power set to 90W, Preheat Power = 90W, Preheat Punch = 5, Preheat Time Limit = 1s. Cold coil resistance is showing correctly (0.24?), and increases to 0.25?, then 0.26? as the coil gets hot, but temp control seems to be disabled for some reason. I've tried both a hard and soft reboot (soft reboot fixed the battery gauge showing 0%), not sure if the hard reboot did anything meaningful. Any ideas what might be up?

I had the same problem. Turned out to be a flaky fire button. VaporShark repaired my mod, replacing both the fire button as well as the board. Worked like a charm after I got it back (no more locking problems). Only now the screen has died. Mod still fires, I just can't see or change any settings, so it's on its way back to VS for another repair (still under warranty). Glad to have my Sigelei 213 on hand.

That's a superb video. The mystery has disappeared. Thanks a stack.

Llama, I have profiles for each of the different atomizers (RTAs and RDAs) that I have, with names like Griffin 25, Griffin A, Griffin B, Griffin C (I have three 22mm Griffins), Tsunami, Royal Hunter, etc. When I install a new coil / set of coils in a particular RTA/RDA, I unlock resistance for the correct profile (lock device, hold fire & +), and fire briefly to get the DNA to "pick up" the resistance, and then I lock resistance in again. This way when I switch tanks or drippers I can switch based on profile name and vape on. I also have a "general" profile named Power Mode, which is the only one that is non-TC. What's so cool about profiles is that they also store the last temperature and power set for a profile—temperature is especially important for me, as I like to vape different juices at different temperatures (hotter for custards and fruit flavours, a touch cooler for tobaccos). I almost can't imagine vaping on a non-DNA200 device now. Only thing I'd like is a few more profiles... at some point I'm going to pass 8 RTAs/RDAs.

Ah. Thank you. From time to time I'm amazed when I stop and think about the fact that I'm vaping on a device that's pushing 80 – 90W through a quad coil titanium build of 0.11?, while continuously monitoring resistance, interpolating against a set of TCR values, and varying power to give a near perfect vape. Sure is a long way from the first disposable "e-cigarette" I bought at the corner store 2 years ago.