Viruk

I've got to agree that the dna 200/250 with SS claptons is the best vape I've found too

I use contact coils for SS316L and its been great. More info on my builds in the following threads: /topic/66183-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894613 /topic/66214-topic/ There are pictures of the builds and screenshots of device monitor while firing. I do use contact coils not spaced and I've not had any trouble - but as with almost all points here, use whatever works best for you

I'm not disagreeing with you retird, but I have to admit I'm sure I read somewhere about the DNA250 basically replacing the 200. I'll post a link if I stumble back across it...

You also could try adding the following csv for the discharge profile under the "Mod" tab in escribe: https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/file?id=3187872 Just in case the above link doesn't work you can find it in this thread: /topic/66080-topic/?do=findComment&comment=893772

What resistance do those come out at? Are you hitting those in single or dual coil setups? 30-40w seems very low for coils that look that chunky. Also pre-heat is usually set higher to mitigate ramp up time, what actually happens if you set your pre-heat lower than the vaping wattage? Those are some good looking coils, I run dual fused Claptons coming out around 0.12 ohms and I fire at 100w with a pre-heat of 120w and they usually aren't up to temperature from cold with a 1 second pre-heat time!

I like contact coils with SS, just make sure you dry burn it before wicking and work out any hotspots if you're using contact coils.

Sorry about the delay - I've just got back from Brazil The file I use for the LG HG2s is attached - I'm not sure if its the same as the one that PaulM posted, but this works for me. 3S_LG_HG2_Battery_Profile.csv

I put some info about what works for me in the following threads: /topic/66183-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894613 /topic/66214-topic/ Have a look there if you're still looking for info and let me know if you have any questions. SS is great once you've figured out what settings work with your setup - its well worth the effort

Have you tried the csv for SS316L that I posted in the thread Black Lace linked to? I found that to be more effective for me than the default on the device - but as always YMMV. Dry burning is great for working out any hotspots. This would need to be done in wattage mode as a correctly configured temp control profile should stop you getting the coils so hot they'd be glowing. Check your build is stable using the atomiser analyser and make sure you've allowed the coil to completely cool to room temperature before swapping to your temp control profile. I can post the profile I use - but I'm unlikely to be able to get that until January as I'm travelling for 3 weeks. My settings are also much more aggressive than yours so may not be appropriate for your build. For stainless I'd recommend starting with a low punch setting. Also test with the device monitor open and look at what your resistance is doing while firing it. I believe the temperature dominant setting is just for display purposes and shows the temp in the largest text on the screen. And finally - I strongly agree with wayneo's advice in numerous discussions - avoid locking your resistance. The DNA chip doesn't need to be locked and it's a workaround for a more fundamental problem. Get your build right and the chip will do the rest without locking your resistance.

Im travelling at the minute without access to a PC so i can't post my own - but I'm sure both of those profiles are available on the forums here if you search. I'll post a link if I can find one.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits

My understanding is that you're not splitting the watts or current unless you're running cells in parallel. Please feel free to correct me, but my understanding is that each cell in the battery takes the full load when in series. This is an excerpt from a Wikipedia article that sums it up quite nicely: Series circuits are sometimes called current-coupled or daisy chain-coupled. The current in a series circuit goes through every component in the circuit. Therefore, all of the components in a series connection carry the same current. There is only one path in a series circuit in which the current can flow. I'll post the link to that in a moment - but I'm stuck on a phone while travelling...

Aren't the cells in series? You're not splitting the amp load between the cells unless they're in parallel - right?

Here are two setups I like, both using fused Clapton SS316L. The dual coil on the left is 3mm inner diameter and comes out at around 0.12 ohms The single coil on the right is 3.5mm inner diameter and comes out at about 0.38 ohms. I dry burn it in wattage mode to adjust for any hotspots, then allow it to cool down, wick it and swap to temp control. I like the csv on steam-engine.org for SS316L - its labelled there as "SS316L / Elite", but I've also attached it here for convenience. You should use the same csv even though your coil is likely to be different - the csv relates to the material. Beyond that, you'll need to experiment to see what works for you. Just start low with your wattage and punch and increase as required. I posted some more details of what works for me in this discussion: /topic/66214-topic/ I find this works well - but you'll just have to experiment to find what works for you. Good luck steamengine_SS_316L_-_elite.csv

I believe they raised (removed?) the 9V limit their board originally had - whether their devices can handle that properly is another topic that I'm not going to touch