steamer861
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Posts posted by steamer861
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56 minutes ago, Frogmod said:
There will be a 21700 and a 18650 version of the 250C boxmod listed on shapways somewhere around the end of next week in 2,3,4s configuration, plus battery holders as well for the 21700 and the 18650’s in the listed link above. Once posted read the description for hardware part numbers and links
Thats great! news. I'm a fan of building my own mods, 3D printed is a good option IMO. Will your new mod design, hold a 30mm atty with out over hang?
Thats one of the nice features of the Currently available 3D printed DNA mods (Boxer & Rebel)
Looking forward to seeing your new design
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On 2018-01-27 at 11:33 AM, Halvor said:
I really want a triple 21700 with the new 250c board. The size would be big and the weight would be heavy, but i don't care. I have big pockets and a tight belt 😁👍I hope some company will make it. Wasn't evolv supposed to release a pod system or something too? A new device where the board would have much more control over the temperature in the atomizer?
IDK about a triple But a Dual 21700 new "C" mod would be nice! 24 amps, over 7000 mAH! I have visited the "Rebel" site many times lusting over the DNA250 Dual 21700 mod! But no way I'm paying that much for a 3D printed mod
Would be real nice if some one would post one for sale on SW's
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If you have a DNA250 chip & are looking to build a mod, Here's a link to a really good deal on an enclosure that includes a 3S lipo
I have bought several of these, the quality is great! The box is all aluminum the 510 is pretty good, He includes every thing you need & it sits a 24mm atty perfectly
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I use Ti exclusively, there is less springy Ti wire available "soft Ti" it cost a bit more but is easier to work with
Here's my latest Ti coil 2X24 wrapped in 30 You don't here much about Clapton coils made of Ti, it works nicely 
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So just encountered the very same issue, I tried a chip swap, cleaning all my ground points in side the mod, all with no results.
I then tried unscrewing the top cap of the 510, cleaned the threads real good & replaced it nice & tight, voila it works fine again -
black lace said:
It doesnt matter how stringent the regs get, we will still be at the top, the regs change for everyone, the company name fits perfectly. Its all about adapting and making a way forward. Two years ago there was no such thing as tc and you couldnt build a decent coil without a blowlamp. Think it was ray winston said,, ""where theres a will, and there is a will, theres allways a way, theres allways a f****** way""
The issue is nothing that wasn't made before 2007 will gain FDA approval easily! Getting FDA approval for VW & TC boards may not be that easy!
(edited by VapingBad) -
VapingBad said:
I don't think the soldering is the issue, maybe it's not the best, but it doesn't look dry and is a lot better than some I've seen in commercial mods. The ground pads often come like that and I happen to know where Steamer got his boards from and he has made at least 8 other working DNA 200s.
Thank You VB I tried to write all the old soft wears to it, I went down the list.
The screen problem went away But now even worse the USB wont charge the battery any more and one of my cells is real weak
Down around the 1 volt range another is 2.46 & the last one is 3.20
I tried a hard reset & nothing happened also tried to do the usb regeneration charge on the battery pack & it wouldn't work either, I'm pretty sure what ever is wrong with this board it's software related
I will be the first to admit I'm not the best with a soldering Iron.
But I can get by, Not only have I built 9 other DNA200's I have built 8 DNA30's and 10 DNA40's. I was confident on this particular board my soldering was solid.
My plan all along was to make this ERM enclosure a 75 watt mod, But being impatient & having a spare 200 just sitting here I got a battery from Evolv & just put it together.
Now seeing how my battery is probably screwed, I will just wait for the new board & keep the DNA200 for a spare if/when it gets back from RMA. -
BillW50 I tried several old firmwares I think it got worse
Now the screen wont go off at all. I haven't started RMA yet there's no one home on the weekend.
I will shoot them an email Monday. There is just barely enough room for a single 18650 sled in the ERM, dual is definitely out for that enclosure.
What you can do is use several lipos in Parallel & get a battery that will last a long time. Only down fall is it's not interchangeable.
For me thats the best thing about the new 75 watt board. Now if i'm going to work I bring a 1300mAH mod so the battery lasts all day, with the new 75 watt board I can just bring a spare battery -
Day 3 the light stays on constantly this morning & this is a screen shot
I officially give up on this chip.
At this point I'm worried it will screw up my battery
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BillW50 said:
@steamer861: Wow that is an impressive collection! I love it! Anyway yes that voltage difference is strange and it might just straighten itself out after a number of recharges. Although if it only gets worse, then you have a problem. Btw, I did order one from Protovapor today. I did hold off on the DNA200 mod and lipo. I wanted to see the box and the 510 in my hands first to look things over before I order the rest of it.
I ordered another one myself I'm anticipating putting a DNA75 in it, with an 18650 battery sled I plan on modding the back cover with some magnets, I will be settling for only 75 watts but gaining the convince of a replaceable cell I don't regularly vape over 50 watts But really like the big watt preheat punch from the DNA200. I guess I will see how it works out with only a 75 watt board, when there available
As far as the fully max in the lights on mod, it discharged evenly down to 3.99 volts
When I got the discrepancy in volts it was still new, maybe that has something to do with it?
I had it hooked up to Escribe to see if I could get it to put the lights on But it seems to not want to malfunction with the USB connected.
Right now I'm going to try older Firmware to see if I could get it to operate normally,
If not I will get in touch with Evolv to see If they will RMA it
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Yes I did mean .02/.05
it still seems strange, I have several Lipo powered DNA200's & none of them do that. There mite be a difference of .01 on one of the cells or no difference between them at all. The real funny thing is it's so random, for over an hour now nothing & the battery is still all most fully charged When I first took it off the charger it lit up 3 or 4 times with in minutes of each other.
Here's a pic of my collection BTW the soldering worked on all of them 
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So it worked good all day
I still have the screen lighting up when ever it feels like it I just charged this battery for the second time, now that the battery is fully charged the frequency of the screen light ups is way more often. I ran the battery down until the screen message check battery came on, when I plugged it in there was between 2 & 5 volts difference on the 3 cells. This is a little strange cause my other lipo's discharge fairly equally.
So what can this mean? Is there any function in Escribe that mite help me diagnose this issue?
@black lace Maybe you can go and Help someone else Your kind of Help is not appreciated or wanted here in my thread. So run along & Have a Nice Day -
Correct perfectly normal while charging The enclosure comes ready to go threaded for the evolv 510 It is of good quality and quite easy to assemble The frequincy of the screen lighting up is far reduced today mite be cause the battery is lower on charge? I will run it right down and see what happins after recharge One more thing I have the screen setting set to turn off after 3 seonds When it comes on its own it stays lit for longer maybe 10 secondsBillW50 said:
Yes, but you never catch it switching out of charging mode at anytime while charging right (unless you press one of the buttons of course)?
Oh cool. You have to do all of the cutouts right? And has anybody tried their coffee? -
[QUOTE=blueridgedog]Could be a tight button (button that needs thinning).[/QUOTE]
The button fitment is Perfect First enclosure that required no modding on the buttons
[QUOTE]This might be hard to do, since you have to watch it. But if it is acting like a button is being pressed, it should also act the same way while charging. As it should jump out of charging screen to normal screen. By the way, where did you get that beautiful box? [/QUOTE]
I have the charging screen set to show all three cells as they charge and to stay lite at 50%
of the screen brightness. So when it's charging I only see the three cells as they progress, & the screen never dims.
The Enclosure came from Protovapor. There on sale for 39.99
BTW I opened the box agin just now to re clean any of the excess flux on the solder points.
I did at first but figured it wouldn't hurt to try it again.
Still no difference & I just saw the first screen light up today -
black lace said:
if you've got a short going on in there, a bit of swarf or snipet of wire rattling around, having it in the locked position wont make a shred of difference,
I had a dna30 sat on a shelf behind me while I was eating my tea and after half hour of inactivity suddenly decided to switch on and combust, if your worried about it, disconect the battery , visualy inspect the inside and have a good blow round with some air duster.. (looking at your power out wire, it doesn't look fully tinned, if a single minute strand of that has broken loose and is rattling around inside, it may cause a problem)
Nothing is rattling around in there! I a sure you the soldering is all solid, you can see it from the pictures. I'm looking for some insight,some one who has seen this before, even posably a fix for said problem?
I all ready double and triple checked the soldering connections,and all the obvious potential causes.
I left it all together, I did notice it come on once while I laid in bed. The good news is it still works this morning I will put some milage on it today, keep an eye on it & see what happens.
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I'v been playing with the screen settings. For about a half an hour now & it stopped. I'm hoping it will just go away,maybe wishful thinking?
I got it locked so it can't fire, & I will be keeping an eye on it. Hoping for the best. -
Every thing looks normal, All three cells are there in E-Scribe
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I just put together a dna200 mod, It's all working perfect
I noticed after a while the screen would light up on it's own. I saw there was an update available so I updated it, still the same
It's not auto firing or nothing like that, just the screen lights up?
Anyone have this happing before? Any ideas how I can stop it?
I'm kind of worried it mite start to auto fire should I take it apart?
Why would it do this?, the buttons fit really good, their not applying pressure to the fire button underneath, this is a little strange
Here's a few pics of the build.
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Right from the Hcigar website :
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T/Y ChunkyButt200
So the VS does have it own version of the DNA200 Board -
I have often wondered how the Zip charging was achieved.
ChunkyButt200 said:all of the dna 200 boards will charge at a MAXIMUM of 1 amp, no higher. vaporshark had evolv put a couple beefier components on the dna 200 pcb to achieve 2 amp charging on their vaporshark dna 200..
"set usb current limit" will let you adjust from 0 to 1 amp.
In another post Nick posted this.Nick said:
Every single DNA200 is capable of the same features, there are no different versions of the DNA200.
So now this has me wondering how Zip charging is archived?
Is it an extra board VS adds? or a different version of the DNA200 made especially for VS? -
This is my collection of DNA200's
I assembled them all my self 5 are 3D printed 2 are custom made Thanks to you know who & 2 are VT200 enclosures from Cigreen
They are all lipo's 4 1300mAH 3 900mAH 2 Hcigar cells between 900 and 1300mAH
I'm going to make it an even 10 with a Mix&match DNA200(3D Printed) with a dual 18650 battery configuration
These 2 are the latest additions Again Thanks You know Who
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looks like there back in stock
Good deal on the whole unit here http://vapenw.com/mod-pvs/box-mods/hcigar-vt200-box-mod -
I haven't seen this posted here any were, So I will post it
Cigreen has the VT200 enclosure kit for about 30 USD
http://cigreen.com/en/spare-parts/381-hcigar-vt200-body.html
There out of stock till the 15th of Jan
I was lucky enough to get 2 kits before they sold out.
I will say there are very nice comes with everything you need, Case, screws,buttons,plastic screen holder, prewired 510.
A battery and a DNA200 and your all set
They also sell the battery at Cigreen but if you look around you can find them cheeper
vapenw, Sweetvapes
Putting DNA 250 chip into Hugo Vapor Boxer Mod
in Installation and Assembly
Posted · Edited by steamer861
Yes the board gets attached directly to the Case with included screws, no need for Ground to 510. The board grounds direct to enclosure.
It would have been nice if there was room for a battery connector (XT30) but there is not. A live connection to the battery is ok.
The way I have put mine together is, I pre fit the chip to make sure the buttons work with out any problems. I cut the 510 + wire to size & tin the end.
Make sure there is enough slack in the wire for the spring in the 510 to travel freely.
I put a bend in the screen lead, carefully so it loops back onto it self, this important or the lead will get trapped under the fire button & malfunction.
I put a small piece of foam attached to the board with electrical tape directly behind the screen, this will keep slight pressure on the screen between the board & the back of the screen to hold it nicely in place.
I solder the + - from the battery direct to the board, Carefully put the chip in the enclosure, making sure the screen is in the recesse ( a small piece of tape on the back of the screen helps here) once the board is fitted, I check the buttons move freely & the screen is working & postioned well while holding the chip in with my hand.
If every thing looks good? Connect the board to the enclosure with the provided screws, carefully solder the + 510 wire to the board.
At this point, if all went well just fold the battery into the enclosure & install the included case screws
I have done three with 200/250's, all work well
For the money this makes a very nice mod, that will fit a 24mm atty nicely 
Hope this helps