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steamer861

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Posts posted by steamer861

  1. 20 hours ago, dc99 said:

    5 different attis with 5 different coils. New 510. Its not the atti

     

    Every time this happens to Me it's a resistance issue. Some were between the board & the coil there is some kind of fault causing an improper resistance read by the board.

    50 minutes ago, Quipu said:

    -Check the contacts on the tank,

    I had a bad central screw on the tank (510 connector), replaced it with a longer one.

    -weak batteries

    -update to SP38

    -Ti coil can easily exide recommended ohm range for a mod to operate (gunk = insulator)

    figured this out by playing with the parallel / serial coil configuration,

    when the ohms go beyond the working range of the mod, the mod start be erratic, throttle.

    But I bet on bad contacts somewhere.

    to point out, solid contacts + SP38 solved my problem.

    Agree with all your points  :)  I to us Ti in TC & keeping the resistance reading perfectly can some times be a challenge. A gunky coil a loose retaining screw even a dirty 510 can all cause resistance issues, causing a weak hit (Throttling or Hitting Temp Control)

  2. 3 hours ago, dc99 said:

    Anybody ever figure out what caused this issue before I replace a board? I have a 250C that throttles almost constantly

     

    Throttling or hitting temp control, is Not! a board issue. It is a wicking or a coil resistance issue.

    Try a different atty or coil, your board should be fine :)

  3. Thanks for the response  :)  I'm fairly certain this isn't a liquid damage issue, I'v had several DNA's die from that before & it's usually via the USB, the boards are quite resilient to Liquid accept for the USB port.  My BB is an older one with no USB.

    Like I said I had a Good Look around inside. No evidence of enough liquid to do any damage.

    Is there a point/s on the board were I could check with a Multi Meter to see if it was drawing at idle when it shouldn't be?

  4. Hi All

    So I have a 2017 BB (authentic No USB), have had it for quite a while now with out any issues, until recently :(  About a week ago after not hitting the BB for a good spell I found the battery completely dead!  So much so that it was toast & could not be revived  :(  I removed the front & back cover to find nothing visibly  wrong, no massive juice spills or bad wires. I cleaned every thing inside with a qTip & iso & replaced the covers.  I started to keep an eye on it & found it will completely drain the battery to 3.6 volts in a few days with out hitting it at all! So it's obvious to me that some thing has gone wrong. My question is if I open it & hook up a usb to it & it to E-Scribe is there any thing I could look for in Device Monitor to give a hint at what could have went wrong?  Or is there some other way to check for a battery drain? maybe with a multi meter?

    I do have a spare 60 & could replace it if need be, But I'd like that to be my last option.

  5. I upgraded these old Hana box's. I found a 3D printed sled at Shapeways & fitted the box with a 20700! It fit perfect with no mods to the case at all!

    Battery life is great with the Sanyo B :)  I wanted to upgrade the door from screws to magnets, but never got around to it :(

     

     

    IMG_3255.jpeg

    • Like 4
  6. This is a known issue! I'v had several go white. If you do a Hard Reboot in E-Scribe it should come back, temporarily.

    Unlike the old days were if the bend in the ribbon wasn't just rite, the screen could malfunction, the colour screen mods mostly have nice screen cradles that keep every thing in place nicely :)

  7. 2 hours ago, Jim Ashby said:

    Yup, it appears too many defective screens are getting past quality control. I bought my Paranormal DNA 250C last Monday and got the white screen problem today (Saturday). It only lasted 5 days before failing. 

    What assurance is there that a replacement screen will not have the same problem? 

    It is unfortunate that we are having these screen issues :(  I do sympathize with Evolv on this issue, I'm fairly certain they (Evolv) out source these screens?

    When there is a failure, Evolv is stuck with the repercussions  :(  

    Reminds me of my 1992 Sonoma, It was all ways  back at the dealership being fixed under warranty, every time it was cheep "Mexican" Part that had failed :(

  8. Is anyone having as many colour screen issues as Me?

    I have had 3 colour screen failures in the last few months :(

    I had 2 screens get the White Screen of Death & now I have some spot that is growing, it will take over the whole screen in no time :(

    Kind of Disappointed :(

     

    wiINmB9.jpg

    glu3dfj.jpg.png

    MRGEwNt.jpg

  9. For those of you's who may be looking to build a more pocket friendly sized, lipo powered  250c mod.

    This may be a solution for you :)

    I built this mod with a silo75c enclosure  https://www.protovapor.com/product/silo-dna-75c-billet-aluminum-dna-mod-case/ a source 510 & a FullyMax 950mAH lipo. 

    This enclosure was intended for a 75c! So with out some internal modification a 250c will NOT! fit.

    The main issue is the space for the chip, as the 250c is 2mm wider. The button fitment & usb fit perfectly, once you remove the extra material for the chip to fit in place.

    I used a dremel, & it was a lot of work! If some one has access to a milling machine it would be a piece of cake :)

    Also note, space management gave me a choice of a better quality 510 (source) or an xt30 connector. I choose the live battery connection & the better 510.

    If how ever you would choose a Varitube 510, there would be adequate room for an xt30 battery connector :)

    See size comparison to a Silo 950, older dna 250, but same size battery 

     

    IMG_2954.jpg

    IMG_2955.jpg

    IMG_2958.jpg

    IMG_2957.jpg

    IMG_2949.jpg

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  10. Well, it seems some of these screen are infact defective :(

    I'm glad spares were offered in the last group buy :)       "better to have & not need" 

    Even if Evolv was nice enough to replace them? shipping from Canada cost more than the screen :(

  11. You may have got lucky?  I wouldn't count on it! I would be expecting the inevitable :(

    TBH I can't see how a theme has any thing to do with Screen failure.

    My screen failure did come on in waves, at first I could Hard Reboot. That didn't last to long.

    I tried different theme's but they had no affect on my situation at all. Plus my white screen was white on more than one DNA 250c.

  12. 3 hours ago, awsum140 said:

    It looks like I've joined the "white screen club" only mine is on a 75C.  I had been using the mod for a while, put it down for a few minutes, picked it up and got a blank white screen.  I removed the batteries, dual 20700s, put them back in and all was fine again.  I did notice a few extra characters down in the lower right coner of the display that looked like "gs" or "6s", couldn't really tell.  Now the background has gone white.  I'm using the default Evolv theme and that has a black fading to blue at the bottom background normally.  Maybe time for a new screen, groan!  The board sled is epoxied into the mod 😕

    That makes it a bit worse :( 

    Mine did exactly the same, on the bottom part of the screen. 

    Good news is over 10 days later, My mod's new screen still working fine :)

     

    • Like 1
  13. 3 hours ago, ruckus said:

    @steamer861 did you ever manage to fix this issue ? Just started happening to me few minutes ago.

    Yes, the mod has been working fine for several days now. It was the screen. 

    When I opened the mod. I was expecting, some thing obvious? A bad kink in the lead?  a juice soaked screen? a loose Zif?

    None of that :( Every thing looked perfect! I guess the screen just went out.

  14. Hi

    IDK what your budget is? But this would suite your needs.  https://www.shapeways.com/product/E28XXKAEX/tool-30mm-mod?optionId=65433301

    All the links for every thing you need are on the SW page :)

    50c is adequate IMO.  3S 0r 4S don't matter as much as the mAH, unless you really want the full 400 watts?

    Also, if you varithane the 3D printed enclosure before you assemble it, it will give it a tough long lasting finish :)

     

    Minmum 16 gauge wire! 14 gauge is even better for the 510 wire. The thick wire is a bit harder to work with but a nice silicon wire helps :)

  15. 2 hours ago, gizman said:

    Assuming 2600MaH dual 18650's, you would be looking at ~18.7 watt hours, 3000MaH dual 18650's would be roughly 21.6 watt hours, if you could find a 1300MaH 4S that would fit it would give you about 19.2 watt hours which would be a closer comparison, or an 1800 3S would be about 20 watt hours.  The 1000MaH 4S I ran for about a month would sometimes need charged by the time I got home from work, for me and my habits anyways, the 1300MaH 4S and the 1800MaH 3S both pretty much get me all day with a full charge in the morning, just like dual 18650's used to. 

    I understand the numbers :)  It seems to me that a good 18650 (VTC5) would give as good or better Watt Hour rate as a Fully Max 950.

    But in reality, with low ohm high watt vaping like I do, the Fully Max gives Me better performance & run time.

    I find the same thing with the 4S 1000mAH lipo in my 250c. With my Vaping style the 4S 1000mAH will give me approximately the same run time as dual 18650's, even if the numbers would say different  :)

  16. So I opened it up, I tried a new screen & it works again :)  I tried the old screen on another 250c & it's white there to.

    So I think the screen is the issue? Luckily I have some extra Colour screens coming with my latest order :) 

    • Like 3
  17. 2 hours ago, VapingBad said:

    I had it with fixed battery when connecting the screen after connecting the battery, disconnecting the battery and reconnecting solved it.

    Thanks for the reply :)  The lipo has a XT30, I tried disconnecting the battery & no Go :(

    It seems the only thing that works is Hard Reboot.

    Also the screen isn't working perfectly either, The fonts  get a bit distorted (pixelated) , the firing word on the bottom is missing letters, or don't work at all.

    Right after the hard Reboot the screen appears normal, until I hit the fire button, them the screen isn't normal any more :(

    It has done it, several times now over the past few days :(

    I fear the screen may not be making perfect contact at the Zif?  I found they were harder to insert with the colour screen.

    It still works for now, this weekend I will open it up & investigate.

    Thanks again for the reply :)

    • Like 1
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