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Spirometry

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Posts posted by Spirometry

  1. Post #1 there is no temp reading because it is firing in power mode. If the mod doesn't see a rise in resistance it will switch to power mode. You have to remove the atty to force a new base resistance (uploading a new profile will also force a recheck)

    Post #2 Things definitely aren't working perfectly now. Your coil is not 280F because 280f is not hot enough to produce vapor. Your mod clearly has the wrong base resistance.

  2. Mod resistance: 0.007? would be a save number to use no matter what atty you attach.
    I personally would use 80% of the 0.013? that you tested. So I would set mod resistance at 0.010?.

    Another thing to look for in atomizer analyzer is the room temperature. If the the room temp reading is nowhere close to the actual room temp, then your base cold ohms setting will be off. In this type of situation it is best to let refinement do its job. Just set the mod down for 20 minutes or so, disconnected from usb. After that time period go back and adjust your temperature if needed.

    I don't really worry about burning cotton. Under normal vaping conditions, you will loose vapor production and lack of flavor long before you burn the wick.

  3. In your video, there was no vapor because it was set at 280°f. 100% PG has a boiling point of 370° add some VG to that and you will have to adjust your temperature even higher.

    What you are doing with all the resets is locking in on the wrong cold resistance. You have to do it several times until you find one that compensates well with the extremely low temperature setting you have set.   

    It is a lot easier to just put a cold atomizer on a cold mod then set your temperature to a setting that hot enough to boil your liquid.

  4. Looks normal to me.

    Your raw ohms is the total resistance (wiring, mod and atomizer)
    The Kanthal ohms is your raw ohms minus your mod resistance. Looks like you haven't set a mod resistance.
    The Temp ohms is the raw ohms minus your mod resistance then adjusted to a reference temperature of 70°.

    Your vape temp is running around 325°, it is too low to be accurate. Make sure both atty and mod are cold before attaching them together. Your coil resistance is so low it would be to your advantage to enter a mod resistance value.  You will have less margin of error if you can get your coil resistance up some.  





  5. I know the dna 200 will not change the physical properties of the wire what I'm asking is if I'm using a .3 ohm stainless coil, with out temp control on, shouldn't I be able to lock it in at .3, and get the same exact vape[ voltage, wattage, and current] instead of firing it and havin it jump to . 39 and cool down to. 35 thus giving me a different vape each time. E.g.-triton /crown stainless coils. And yes I know I can use ss316 for temp but it works better in Kanthal mode



    If the resistance is changing it is impossible to have the exact same voltage, wattage and current. It is against ohms law.

    If you set it at 50 watts, the dna will output 50 watts. It doesn't matter that the resistance is rising the whole time.  

     
  6. Atty lock is for temperature protection. Furthermore it does not prevent your resistance from changing. The DNA200 can not change the physical properties of the wire. What atty lock does is turn off refinement, preventing the dna200 from changing the cold resistance value.

    In temp mode your display will show the cold resistance value. This is not actual resistance of the atty. It is a calculated value of what it thinks your resistance should be at 70°F.  

    In wattage mode the display will show actual atty resistance(live ohms)while firing. The dna will continuously monitor the resistance and apply appropriate voltage during the vape. When not firing it will show the last resistance it saw while firing.

    What you may of discovered is a small bug in the firmware. because with temp protection turned off, there is no need to atty lock a cold resistance.


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